I tried adjusting the speedo thur the tones but it changed some how maybe my son hit the trigger when we turned it on.

Yes it could be possible. but if you getting a new system already. Some esc require if you change a radio setting like you have to re calibration the esc which don't make sense. I would look at the instruction one last time on the rtr one and talk to some one from you club for help just to make sure you are not missing anything. If you did all that all ready then I guess the change would be the go to next.

All you associated guys out there I'm a 4wd guy just put together an sc10 to run oval on a pretty much low traction banked track any pointers on getting maximum forward bite ? I'm at a loss just keeps wanting to make short laps the 22sct's are smokin me ....

Maby standing up the shocks will give you more forward traction!

Yes stand up the rear shocks it will make the rear end stay down a little more on power. Or since this is for dirty oval seeing how there are no jumps. Put a low ride height on the car. But make sure you have the front end nosed down. If that don't work try like the 4 Degree toe Block but that might be be a no no in dirt oval. I never ran it so. There is a couple of things you can do to get foward bite easy.but you gonna have to work the front and rear a little here and there. You might also look into a spring kit and a rear sway bar. I think you gonna have to stiff up one end and lighter front to keep steering. In this oval racing what is the turns all left or all right. If it say all left put right on the left side of the car to keep it balance in those high speed turns. Ask they guy what they do listen try and learn it. Takes time but you get there

We've finished up our front tower design--and it's going to be a great upgrade for any SC10 owner looking to upgrade to the newer 10.2 styled shock tower--it was a lot more difficult to design the front shock tower due to the different geometries and coming up with a design that would be the coolest looking shock tower at the track that could also race really well

We still need to add in a 4th hole in the rear tower, and here is what the design looks like



Selga! www.segla.biz the designers that did such an awesome job designing the shock towers will be printing out a front shock tower to test fitment We are about 1 week away from the first aluminum prototype, & real world testing

Looking for set up help for sc10 ft running on indoor off road track it is a felt covered track just needing some ideas running the stock tires having trouble with truck wanting to roll over if I try to drive it hard have blue springs on front silvers on rear 35 wt oil

We're testing the fitting and alignment of the MachoCave Shock Towers today and I just wanted to report back that the Big Bore shocks will fit just fine

Stay tuned as we get ready to carve out our shock towers out of aluminum






Just a reminder that the CF rods will be optional, and that there will be a 4th hole option

Ok guys, need some help here. My sc10 is about a month old, has only been run indoors on carpet, and two weeks ago I heard a light clicking when turning, last week at the track it got much worse, and louder, but only while turning. I have taken the trans and diff apart, and I see absolutely nothing wrong, and checked the out drives and there is no wear as if the dogbones were popping out at all. The only damage I saw was a groove dug into the metal on one half of the slippers rear plate as if it had been rubbing on something, but only one side, like a half crest, any ideas here?

Ok, it appears it does go all the way around, just heavier on one side. And the motor plate is scratched up too where it mount as you can see in this pic

looks like your motor plate got loose a little bit and contacted your slipper. locktite is a must on trans screws because they only grab 3-4 threads in the motor plate.

Clicking is usually either the gears in the gear diff, or the idler gear in the transmission. Looks like yours is the RTR model...and both of those are suspect in the RTR. I would double check those items again. Idler gears can "look" ok, but clean it off real good and look at it real close to see if it's chewed up.

This was way back on page five so it needed to get back up front.

Also thanks to the above! I was having trouble with traction and never thought to stand up the shocks. If I'm loose on the gas coming out of a corner do I want to move the top or bottom of the rear shock in?

move the top of the shock to the inside on the rear tower. (drill the 4th hole in the rear)

also adding weight to the rear (typically 2.5-3oz) will help a lot when it comes to the rear end stepping out while exiting a corner.

i have the added weight and have been shifting it and my battery around around which helps but hasn't been what I'm looking for. I think moving the shock will help with the feel that I want.

okay so I am a newb. enough said. I am trying to find the rcrd chassis for the ea sc10.2 everybody was getting was getting giddy over. I have managed to break a area that never gets covered, the area where the drive section bolts to the chassis, the little nubs that stick up I have managed to break two of them off. the rcrd chassis is right up my alley. are they still being made?