YOKOMO Touring Car BD-7
#3332
I recieved a few questions on the parts compatibility and differences between the original BD7 and the 2014 edition. I ended up getting the normal blue edition to match my electronics. Here's what I noticed:
1. 2014 includes all graphite suspension parts vs. the plastic of the original release.
2. 2014 has new chassis and top deck due to new motor mount. The top deck of the 2014 has the motor screw forward so if you use the previous version you will not be able to use the motor mount screw hole. Probably not an issue if you use the high traction option top deck since you would want more flex in the rear anyways.
3. Besides the new floating lay shaft the wide opening in the motor mount allows a ridiculous wide range of FDR for 17.5 racing! Using a 96 spur you can gear anywhere between 4.3ish down to 3.2ish! Also the motor screws are both on the bottom of the motor mount.
4. New shock cylinder, shock shaft, and shock cap and ends. The 2014 shock shaft is 2mm shorter but only on the threading. The 2014 includes the 3 hole 1.1 piston versus the 1.0. Also the shock caps and end seem to be the same but not sure why the new part number (new material?). I had some of the nitride shaft from last year which I used and was able to get to the desired shock length just fine.
5. The aluminum suspension mounts (non-split) measure the same as the previous part numbers. The reason for the new part numbers are the new color. The 2014 blue matches the blue in the bulkheads. Recall original BD7 aluminum color was shinier and more like the Tamiya blue. Looking at the new releases it look like there are a few new width options (like the 43.9mm).
6. The stock 2014 kits include a plastic piece for a battery stop in the center and a plastic servo mount versus the aluminum piece in the original release. Not really a big deal since 99.5% of us get the floating servo mount anyways.
7. I'm confused on the new steering bell cranks. Other than matching the color of the aluminum and filling in the recess with material, I didn't see a difference in the measurements.
My only complaint in the build is that the shock parts and belt pulleys are black when the rest of the car is blue.
1. 2014 includes all graphite suspension parts vs. the plastic of the original release.
2. 2014 has new chassis and top deck due to new motor mount. The top deck of the 2014 has the motor screw forward so if you use the previous version you will not be able to use the motor mount screw hole. Probably not an issue if you use the high traction option top deck since you would want more flex in the rear anyways.
3. Besides the new floating lay shaft the wide opening in the motor mount allows a ridiculous wide range of FDR for 17.5 racing! Using a 96 spur you can gear anywhere between 4.3ish down to 3.2ish! Also the motor screws are both on the bottom of the motor mount.
4. New shock cylinder, shock shaft, and shock cap and ends. The 2014 shock shaft is 2mm shorter but only on the threading. The 2014 includes the 3 hole 1.1 piston versus the 1.0. Also the shock caps and end seem to be the same but not sure why the new part number (new material?). I had some of the nitride shaft from last year which I used and was able to get to the desired shock length just fine.
5. The aluminum suspension mounts (non-split) measure the same as the previous part numbers. The reason for the new part numbers are the new color. The 2014 blue matches the blue in the bulkheads. Recall original BD7 aluminum color was shinier and more like the Tamiya blue. Looking at the new releases it look like there are a few new width options (like the 43.9mm).
6. The stock 2014 kits include a plastic piece for a battery stop in the center and a plastic servo mount versus the aluminum piece in the original release. Not really a big deal since 99.5% of us get the floating servo mount anyways.
7. I'm confused on the new steering bell cranks. Other than matching the color of the aluminum and filling in the recess with material, I didn't see a difference in the measurements.
My only complaint in the build is that the shock parts and belt pulleys are black when the rest of the car is blue.
Making my list of spares to order :-)
#3333
Hi 2014 owners: I installed the spur mid pulley assembly, but when trying to tighten it down it binds the bearings. I want to know if I'm missing something or that screw can't be tighten past snug and shall be loctited to keeping it from backing out. I followed the order of installation per the manual and have all the bearings and shim as told.
#3334
Tech Master
iTrader: (5)
Hi 2014 owners: I installed the spur mid pulley assembly, but when trying to tighten it down it binds the bearings. I want to know if I'm missing something or that screw can't be tighten past snug and shall be loctited to keeping it from backing out. I followed the order of installation per the manual and have all the bearings and shim as told.
#3335
Hi 2014 owners: I installed the spur mid pulley assembly, but when trying to tighten it down it binds the bearings. I want to know if I'm missing something or that screw can't be tighten past snug and shall be loctited to keeping it from backing out. I followed the order of installation per the manual and have all the bearings and shim as told.
#3336
Thanks @swimbikerun for the comparison. Hopefully I'll be upgrading to the '14 spec this month, but I'm more looking forward to the shirt length shock set. Hopefully they'll be released soon outside of Europe.
#3337
I'm new to Yokomo and got a BD7 2014. Need help with the gear diff it's really tight when I put the screws in! Very hard to turn i't doesn't seem this is normal like the gears get too compressed when I put it together!
#3338
You can reshim it with 0.1mm shim on each side instead of 0.3mm shim and/or sand down the backs of each gear with 400 grit sand paper. Also be sure that the outdrives turn freely when they are pinned in place before you screw the diff together. Is the seal/gasket in place? Just some things to check.
#3339
You can reshim it with 0.1mm shim on each side instead of 0.3mm shim and/or sand down the backs of each gear with 400 grit sand paper. Also be sure that the outdrives turn freely when they are pinned in place before you screw the diff together. Is the seal/gasket in place? Just some things to check.
Thanks!
#3340
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (108)
Hi 2014 owners: I installed the spur mid pulley assembly, but when trying to tighten it down it binds the bearings. I want to know if I'm missing something or that screw can't be tighten past snug and shall be loctited to keeping it from backing out. I followed the order of installation per the manual and have all the bearings and shim as told.
Last edited by swimbikerun; 01-04-2014 at 07:59 AM.
#3341
Tech Master
iTrader: (14)
I already boxed up my BD7 but the outside diameter and width mesaurements were the same when I did a quick comparison during the build.
The button profile of the Yokomo button head screws are .5mm taller than the ones in the Associated kits. Try using those (or any others with a shorter button profile) in securing the spur and you should free up the binding in the pulley. This was the same issue with the original BD7 when you were trying to use any spur other than a Panaracer (.5mm less reccess in the spurs).
The button profile of the Yokomo button head screws are .5mm taller than the ones in the Associated kits. Try using those (or any others with a shorter button profile) in securing the spur and you should free up the binding in the pulley. This was the same issue with the original BD7 when you were trying to use any spur other than a Panaracer (.5mm less reccess in the spurs).
#3342
He You All Yokomo Driver
Do you want to buy a TRF 418, like Tamiya, the WORLD Champion
No, because You do not have enough money to drive Qualitit, LIKE TAMIYA Spirit
Copy not allowed
Do you want to buy a TRF 418, like Tamiya, the WORLD Champion
No, because You do not have enough money to drive Qualitit, LIKE TAMIYA Spirit
Copy not allowed