JConcepts Thread
#6933
Guest
iTrader: (13)
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 1,175
From: south fulton tn
Hello P.W
I got yalls sway bar mounted on my sc10.2 and I can't get the front sway bar mounts tight enough without locking down the sway bar from moving freely, do I need to do a little trimming on the mounts or just run it tight and see if it frees up? The rear mounts are fine, nice an tight and free. In the front I used the 1.6mm bar and 1.2 in the rear. (To me it seems like the slot needs to be just a hair deeper or sand half of the nylon washer to get free movement??)
I got yalls sway bar mounted on my sc10.2 and I can't get the front sway bar mounts tight enough without locking down the sway bar from moving freely, do I need to do a little trimming on the mounts or just run it tight and see if it frees up? The rear mounts are fine, nice an tight and free. In the front I used the 1.6mm bar and 1.2 in the rear. (To me it seems like the slot needs to be just a hair deeper or sand half of the nylon washer to get free movement??)
#6934
[QUOTE=kyoshoracer77;12839446]Hello P.W
I got yalls sway bar mounted on my sc10.2 and I can't get the front sway bar mounts tight enough without locking down the sway bar from moving freely, do I need to do a little trimming on the mounts or just run it tight and see if it frees up? The rear mounts are fine, nice an tight and free. In the front I used the 1.6mm bar and 1.2 in the rear. (To me it seems like the slot needs to be just a hair deeper or sand half of the nylon washer to get free movement??)[/Q
The 2 blue "slide nuts"(not sure what they are called) that go on the top plate have different size groves notched in them. You might just have to turn those 90deg and use the bigger notches. Hope that helps
I got yalls sway bar mounted on my sc10.2 and I can't get the front sway bar mounts tight enough without locking down the sway bar from moving freely, do I need to do a little trimming on the mounts or just run it tight and see if it frees up? The rear mounts are fine, nice an tight and free. In the front I used the 1.6mm bar and 1.2 in the rear. (To me it seems like the slot needs to be just a hair deeper or sand half of the nylon washer to get free movement??)[/Q
The 2 blue "slide nuts"(not sure what they are called) that go on the top plate have different size groves notched in them. You might just have to turn those 90deg and use the bigger notches. Hope that helps
#6937
Guest
iTrader: (13)
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 1,175
From: south fulton tn
[QUOTE=KAWIDAD;12839518]
I done that, the wire is in the biggest slot.
Hello P.W
I got yalls sway bar mounted on my sc10.2 and I can't get the front sway bar mounts tight enough without locking down the sway bar from moving freely, do I need to do a little trimming on the mounts or just run it tight and see if it frees up? The rear mounts are fine, nice an tight and free. In the front I used the 1.6mm bar and 1.2 in the rear. (To me it seems like the slot needs to be just a hair deeper or sand half of the nylon washer to get free movement??)[/Q
The 2 blue "slide nuts"(not sure what they are called) that go on the top plate have different size groves notched in them. You might just have to turn those 90deg and use the bigger notches. Hope that helps
I got yalls sway bar mounted on my sc10.2 and I can't get the front sway bar mounts tight enough without locking down the sway bar from moving freely, do I need to do a little trimming on the mounts or just run it tight and see if it frees up? The rear mounts are fine, nice an tight and free. In the front I used the 1.6mm bar and 1.2 in the rear. (To me it seems like the slot needs to be just a hair deeper or sand half of the nylon washer to get free movement??)[/Q
The 2 blue "slide nuts"(not sure what they are called) that go on the top plate have different size groves notched in them. You might just have to turn those 90deg and use the bigger notches. Hope that helps
#6938
[QUOTE=kyoshoracer77;12840087]Triple check the castle piece just to be sure. Installed a couple of these kits without issue. If you still have interference just faintly file the slot or backdrag a hobby knife across the edges of the alum to break the edge. Otherwise it'll be fine in about 5mins of runtime so long as it's not jamb up tight.
#6939
Guest
iTrader: (13)
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 1,175
From: south fulton tn
[QUOTE=mblgjr;12842349]
Triple check the castle piece just to be sure. Installed a couple of these kits without issue. If you still have interference just faintly file the slot or backdrag a hobby knife across the edges of the alum to break the edge. Otherwise it'll be fine in about 5mins of runtime so long as it's not jamb up tight.
I took off some of the blue anodized and I was able to tighten it up fine.
Are the jconcepts ball ends as tight to snap on like the one on the sway bar?? If so I want them!!!!!!!!
Triple check the castle piece just to be sure. Installed a couple of these kits without issue. If you still have interference just faintly file the slot or backdrag a hobby knife across the edges of the alum to break the edge. Otherwise it'll be fine in about 5mins of runtime so long as it's not jamb up tight.
Are the jconcepts ball ends as tight to snap on like the one on the sway bar?? If so I want them!!!!!!!!
#6942
[QUOTE=kyoshoracer77;12843725]
Yes, they fit very well when used with stock ball studs.
Pair the JC ends with the JC studs for a "Zero slop" fitment
Ends
http://www.jconcepts.net/store/index...roducts_id=708
Ball Studs (available in .200/.300/.400 lengths
http://www.jconcepts.net/store/index...roducts_id=710
Pair the JC ends with the JC studs for a "Zero slop" fitment
Ends
http://www.jconcepts.net/store/index...roducts_id=708
Ball Studs (available in .200/.300/.400 lengths
http://www.jconcepts.net/store/index...roducts_id=710
#6945
Black is best when running in cool, damp, clean/indoor conditions. It offers that last bit of traction, esp when it's cold. Its def a bit grippier than green, but doesn't drive "softer" or squirmy like some ultra soft compounds can.



495Likes