That not likely to happen. To rich for my blood considering its value to me. The HW 150A has proven more reliable the the gen1 RX8 and has served me very well in 2 vehicles. I was about to look for a used gen1 a couple years ago and a top racer here that used them with nothing but success told me to get the HW do to known RX8 failures. A few weeks later his buggy's RX8 died. Seems the gen2 is a much better animal in reliability and other facets and cool looking to boot. It certainly has more steps to choose from with each parameter and the ability to have a 7.4V BEC. I feel the HW 150A has all the options, smoothness, punch, and reliability required for any good driver with a dialed chassis to win. When I start losing based on a parameter that the RX8 has that my HW doesn't, then I'll buy one. So far though, besides the looks, I have nothing but praise for the HW 150A ESC.

The rx8 really allowed me to tune the extremely brutal powerband of the 1/8th motor so that power delivery was incredibly smooth compared to a simple punch setting such as that on the HW and other escs on the market. I am thrifty as well as money isnt exactly growing on trees, but the difference in feel between the hw 150/120a (ive had both) and a well tuned gen 2 rx8 is substantial. Money very well spent in my opinion because the refined power delivery makes the e 1/8th more enjoyable and easier to drive. This was just my experience, take it for what you will. Im not sponsored and I buy stuff I think is worth the money.

I personally run the rx8 in all my ebuggy and 4wd sc vehicles. That being said, I only use the tuning options in the sc, as with ebuggy I don't limit anything as it can be driven that much harder. One thing the gen 2rx8 has though, which is definitely an advantage, is a good hv bec so I don't need extra stuff in the vehicle to run an hv servo.

I've also run the castle mmp in ebuggy, and it was ok the first few minutes, but after several minutes it got warm and then it didn't perform well. I switched to the rx8 from it and the available power through the whole run was a night and day difference, especially at the end.

I have a Viper VTX8 that is going in my truck. I love the BEC is adjustable up 8.0v in .1 increments, its waterproof, and does a whole bunch more things that I've never used. The only problem is that it is going to be a real tight fit with the VTX8 and truggy sized motor.

Tekno,

What is the available footprint for an ESC after a truggy motor is installed?
Also, what is the distance between the top of the front shock tower and the rear tower? Strange question...I know.

A Truggy T8g2 would leave you with 50mm by 57mm.

is this one of the super saver codes?

You guys wont have to wait too long!

I used the Gold code to save 100.00. If you need the code, I can PM it to you but not sure if it will work.

Please do yourself a favor and use a different motor than the 2650KV, Castle designed that motor for 3-4s in a buggy only. The weight of the Truggy will kill that motor very quickly because it is a short can motor that does not produce enough torque to push the Truggy reliably. If you want a great motor for the money and do not care about it being sensored then the Castle creations 2200kv motor is a torque beast and will push the Truggy without any heat issues with the correct gearing.

-Thomas

right now, personally looking to go with a Buggy 2000Kv.

Based on my experiences in the past with running E-truggy, its possible to use properluy geard buggy motors which can be an advantage for slick tracks as there is less torque. But yo udefinitely need to be geared right.

The castle 2200kv motor is quite a beast. before castle changed some software settings on its MMM esc when I was running e truggy, I had punch control or whatever its call at 90% (basically more is more limiting), then, software change could go to 30%.


So, what optional setup parts are different than the buggy versions?

Right now I know that swaybars are different, what else?

Just got mine pre-ordered at AMain. What is everyone thinking for spares? I have an EB48 and a ton of parts for it so I am thinking I'll probably only need a spare set of front a-arms and axle shafts for the truggy.

I suggested the 2200kv motor for his application, since he will not be racing and wants a solid motor for a great price. For racing on the other hand a 1900 buggy motor and the 2050kv buggy work great, along with the 2000kv Truggy and possibly the 2250kv Truggy motor on very large outdoor tracks.

We have done most of out testing with the buggy motors listed above for the same reason as you stated the lower torque makes the car more controllable.

As far as different tuning options from the buggy, there are really only two different things. The sway-bars like you mentioned and the shock springs are different to accommodate the longer shocks, shock pistons will be the same.

Front shocks on the Truggy are the same as the rear on the EB48, and the rear shocks will be specific for the ET and NT. All the internal guides, rod ends, spring perch, caps, swaybar stay, sway-bar parts will be the same just the actual bar will be different.

The new springs for the truggy will be the correct rate to handle the truggy duties, as will as be longer in the rear for the new rear shocks.

Hope this all made sense!

-Thomas

Great info Thomas thanks.

+1 great info.

Are the rates that will be available for the truggy available to be seen? Also, what length are the springs for the rear?