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Old 12-16-2013 | 12:20 AM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by merdith6
You dirty glowplug hole
That is the best insult I've ever heard!
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Old 12-16-2013 | 02:29 AM
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Originally Posted by THE PHILLY JYNX
Running a much hotter plug will help reduce the issue but the fact is its still MASKING the problem...leaking front bearing... Notice I did not say BAD front bearing. Bearings in these engines are not seals... And this issue is by no means isolated to Werks engines. In fact your BTT just proves that point. I have tested for vacuum leaks on brand new never ran nova plus 4's. The first 2 tanks 250 cc's they passed the break cleaner test with zero issues. By tank 3 the engine was studdering. On the 4th tank, 500 cc's i could kill the engine instantly. This was with brand new nova 17011 bearings. So by the time we finish the break in process we are already masking a leaking front bearing with carburetor jetting.
So O.S. and Novarossi are selling brand new $500 on-road engines that are just paper weights, because they have metal shielded front bearings? Plus these .21's are pulling more RPM's and even more vacuum... so how one but not the other? And the air filters on our off-road cars are no more restrictive than the INS Boxes they run.
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Old 12-16-2013 | 03:49 AM
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Originally Posted by Rsickles
So O.S. and Novarossi are selling brand new $500 on-road engines that are just paper weights, because they have metal shielded front bearings? Plus these .21's are pulling more RPM's and even more vacuum... so how one but not the other? And the air filters on our off-road cars are no more restrictive than the INS Boxes they run.
Because there are onroad engines that are not good from the factory either... I explained it in my first post in this thread :-)

The seal is between the crank and crankshaft. If the torerance is to big, you will have problems. There is no difference between onroad and offroad engines. Our engines runs a bit hotter, and onroad fuel might have more castor oil it. That helps a little as it will also seal better between the crankcase and crankshaft
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Old 12-16-2013 | 02:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Rsickles
So O.S. and Novarossi are selling brand new $500 on-road engines that are just paper weights, because they have metal shielded front bearings? Plus these .21's are pulling more RPM's and even more vacuum... so how one but not the other? And the air filters on our off-road cars are no more restrictive than the INS Boxes they run.
What I am saying is our engines pull vacuum threw the front bearings. Some less some more. This is not my opinion. This is fact. We have done all this testing and are working on getting the video editing done to show you guys. As far as your paper weight question I have 4 letters for you D.I.R.T. thats what we run on and it quickly magnifies the issue as well. We have had numerous on road races call the shop and tell us about there $600-$700 on road engines that were complete basket cases. Flaming out ,very difficult to tune, and would not hold a tune for 5 minutes. At our suggestion they installed our bearing caps and all the issues went away. Rsickles if your not having these issues thats great. But unfortunately a lot of guys are and its much more prevalent than most are aware. Our air filters start a 20-40 minute main brand new and by the end have any where from a mild to a massive restriction from getting coated /clogged with dirt.
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Old 12-16-2013 | 03:13 PM
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Nice debat

Back to the Werks engine. Normally there is nothing wrong with a product, and I still think those B6 engines are some of the most powerfull engines on the market. Very impressive for sure.
Tried Nova carb on it, HIIIIGH idle speed, low, rich lean, different clutches, more and less compression, different cars, new fuel lines, new airfilter... Still flames... Sometimes after WOT, sometimes after few seconds of idle, sometimes after moderate gas on the slower parts of the track...
I guess we were just unlucky. I've changed the front bearing with a brand new Boca bearing and will break it in, and test the engine on the track when winter is over.

But I still think we've done something wrong and the engine doesn't have any fault... I just don't know what :-)

Last edited by Lille-bror; 12-16-2013 at 11:37 PM.
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Old 12-16-2013 | 10:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Eivind E
That is the best insult I've ever heard!
I try.
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Old 12-16-2013 | 11:35 PM
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I fix a few engines with flamouts with the Buku cap this seasson Bjarne. Ge one and try!The new front bearing will last alot longer to :-)
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Old 12-17-2013 | 01:29 AM
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Originally Posted by am
I fix a few engines with flamouts with the Buku cap this seasson Bjarne. Ge one and try!The new front bearing will last alot longer to :-)
Sounds great, Anders

I don't think he is interresting in using more time\money on the engine. As far as I can see, you'll need a specific Buku cap for the Werks engine.

Well, if it doesn't help with the new bearing, I'll block the vakuum hole and test the engine again. As mentioned, its a damn powerfull engine, so it must produce a lot of vakuum
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Old 12-20-2013 | 10:49 AM
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here is question I have a rebuilt os speed 21 that i bought second hand the other day when I was running it at idle I heard a whoosing sound coming from the front of the engine.
I know that my clutch bell is junk and I am in the process of replacing it. But I was wondering if this a sign that front bearing is going bad. The engine ran great on the track as it tuned very easy and it kept the tune all thru the run. michael
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Old 12-20-2013 | 10:47 PM
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Originally Posted by stoney452
here is question I have a rebuilt os speed 21 that i bought second hand the other day when I was running it at idle I heard a whoosing sound coming from the front of the engine.
I know that my clutch bell is junk and I am in the process of replacing it. But I was wondering if this a sign that front bearing is going bad. The engine ran great on the track as it tuned very easy and it kept the tune all thru the run. michael
Hi.

You can make a quick test: at idle speed, grab around the cooling head (without burning yourself). If the whooshing sound stops, you most likely have a defective REAR bearing.

Open the engine and check for rust on the bearings, before you starts the engine again.
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Old 12-20-2013 | 11:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Lille-bror
Hi.

You can make a quick test: at idle speed, grab around the cooling head (without burning yourself). If the whooshing sound stops, you most likely have a defective REAR bearing.

Open the engine and check for rust on the bearings, before you starts the engine again.
Hi Lille-bror
I will do that as soon as i get to run it again thanks michael
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