Trinity being the key point here, always pushing the rule/performance envelope. They sell their motor with optional rotors installed as an OEM motor. Since the rotors are stock with a 7.5 mm core and fall between 12.3 -12.5 dia., it is OEM . Kind of a gray area !!!!!

Spec tires back in stock http://racevta.com/index.php?manufacturers_id=11

Thanks for the heads up!

Is this supposed to be a joke?

No I have never seen a real fast d3.5 21.5

That seems odd that all other specs being the same, the 21.5 of a D3.5 would not hold its own against 21.5s of other brands. I am using an old thunder chicken I bought at the Snowbirds a couple of years ago.

after digging into the d3.5 motors and trying to get some straight answers I was informed that the d3.5 actually got passed on the new roar testing procedure and is not fat wire like the 17.5 13.5 and 10.5 so heads up racing it should be on par with any other motor out there.

ROAR has some strange rules on the size of wire and what motors use what. The D3.5 21.5 was never in question with ROAR. The D3.5 17.5 and 10.5 motor both use the same size wire that was in question. The 21.5 and the 13.5 dont use that size wire so they were never in question out side of mass hysteria.

When its all said and done the D3.5 21.5 isnt up to speed with other motors out there.

Snoopy not all motors are equal...if they were then people would be using D1 or orginal Novak motors and there would never be any advancement....yet new motors still come out for the same "Spec".

Thanks Kevin. I did not know that the 21.5 didn't use the flow wire or that it did not live up to the D3.5 name in terms of performance. Motor development is bitter sweet. It's always neat to see how they make them faster. And it always leaves a wake of guys cursing on their way to buy the latest motor.

I just got a package from Mr. Lemieux. That really is a great deal for four tires and some stickers.

Yeah I know Im one of the guys who went out and picked up a D3.5 21.5 when the 17.5 hit the market and punched everything else in the face with its speed. I ASSUMED that the 21.5 would be the same....but nope its not even close. Then when all the BS hit the fan with the 17.5 I looked into the rules and I noticed that the strange wire rules from ROAR. This was sparked by EFRA banning the D3.5 10.5 and they dont test 17.5 motors but ROAR does. Then I noticed they both use the same size wire and it was the 1 wire out of 2 in the motor that was in question...and the rest is a mess...lol.

Glad you like the tires it should really make things alot easier for the racers to not worry about not being on the same tire or someone using some old never to be sold again tires.

I like the profile and side wall too. I hope they glue up easy and round.

@Kevin,
What is your opinion on running the new tires on 26mm wheels? The 0 offset 24mm wheels significantly change the stance of my TC4 with a 200mm bodies.

My opinion is that the tires dont work the same on 26mm rims as 24mm rims. When mounted on 26mm they seem to have a different feel like less traction feeling to me...thats not to say you cant get them to work but they just feel different. Personally if you are concerned with the looks of the offset I would get thicker hexes and use 24mm rims.

Kevin K . if u ran xpattern tires then switched to the ride . what setup changes would u make (other than hide height /droop/FDR)
I ran xpatterns (old ones ) they turned on a dime and traction rolled in a few corners .
Ran the ride tires (new tires ,equal setup) car would not turn . not to save its life ....
Ran jaco blues (used /equal setup) amazing handling difference .
Any insite ?

The changes that I always made when going from X-patterns to the Rides was with the Ride tires I ran my inner camber link longer and lower on the bulk head. I even added more spacing on the top of the castor block...so more angle down towards the center of the car from the outside. From there if I needed even more I would go down in front OIL and lean the shocks in more on the tower. Narrow up the front end of the car or widen out the rear end of the car....at the hex is the fastest way on most cars. I would mainly play with the front end of the car but if I was out of options in the front I would move the rear shock in 1 hole on the lower arm. After that if I still needed more I would raise the rear inner camber link. best of luck....