Front Engine leak
10-24-2013 | 12:57 AM
#46
Tech Rookie
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 17
So you actually think extra fuel leaking out the bearing actually harms it ? I dont buy that for a second dude ! LOL what harms the bearings is when the engine breathes thru the front sucking up dirt into the bearing...thats actually what kills the bearings....dirt kills bearings !!!!! . I would rather have a engine leak a little fuel then suck a little dirt ! a little extra fuel only lubricates the bearings, it doesn't harm them...dirt is what kills the bearings...not fuel ! this why we block the little oil bypass port....we get extra fuel leaking out the front, but have zero issue with dirt getting sucked into the engine......... After blocking that port all the engines show slight leaking out the front, yet the amount of front bearings failures was reduced to nil....and this is tested and proven over hundreds of engines now...............As I say, its better to leak a tiny bit of fuel then it is for the engine to breath thru the front...Breathing in dirt thru the front bearing is what kills the bearings....fuel seeping out does no harm at all.......fuel is a lubricant, and having extra lubricant only seals and protects the bearing better.... Personally I would rather see a slightly damp front bearing then a bone dry bearing...if the bearing is bone dry then I always suspect the engine is breathing in thru the nose....which means it is breathing in unfiltered , dirty air..........
Now of course a little extra fuel leaking will cause a collection of dirt on the nose of the engine, that may eventually wear out the dust shields....But this is far less of an issue then the engine breathing in unfiltered air thru the bearing....... As under some conditions these engines will actively breath thru the nose and will suck up large amounts of dirt, which absolutely destroys the front bearing in a very short amount of time...........this is far more of a concern then a slight bit of fuel seeping out the front bearing.,....
Now of course a little extra fuel leaking will cause a collection of dirt on the nose of the engine, that may eventually wear out the dust shields....But this is far less of an issue then the engine breathing in unfiltered air thru the bearing....... As under some conditions these engines will actively breath thru the nose and will suck up large amounts of dirt, which absolutely destroys the front bearing in a very short amount of time...........this is far more of a concern then a slight bit of fuel seeping out the front bearing.,....
Imbue is correct, it might not be the front bearing issue at all; if it ain't leaking nitro out from the front bearing after a tank of running, it's got nothing to do with that.
RC engine don't really 'seal' that well, if you put a fair amount of after-run oil or WD-40 in your engine and leave it there, sometimes you'll see the oil leak out from there, it's very normal.
RC engine don't really 'seal' that well, if you put a fair amount of after-run oil or WD-40 in your engine and leave it there, sometimes you'll see the oil leak out from there, it's very normal.
that still doesn't address the issue of....what if the front bearing is drawing atmosphere INTO the engine. No one has addressed that yet and earlier in this thread or another one i was reading is that seems to be a common problem causing premature wear on the bearing due to it drawing in dirt and if the draw is bad enough, that would indeed cause tuning problems. I want to know how to make it leak oil which i have read is done by plugging up the bypass port. So as i have stated REPEATEDLY, i have already discovered a leak is definitely there with the air and soapy water test. There is a leak in the front bearing, i have proven this as fact, and i'm not just trying to "pin it down as front bearing". IT IS FACT Please read my posts before you comment. This is a hotly debated argument but it seems that almost all nitro engines leak in the front bearing to an extent, but its best for them to leak OUTWARDS which as stated before by others, the oil helps to create this seal. All i am trying to do is achieve this by making my engine leak outwards from the front seal, my plane leaks outwards and runs just fine, my car is almost certainly drawing inwards as to no oil leakage
10-24-2013 | 01:47 AM
#47
as the first quote addresses the leakage, its not oil dripping out i'm concerned about its air leaking in causing it not to tune right
that still doesn't address the issue of....what if the front bearing is drawing atmosphere INTO the engine. No one has addressed that yet and earlier in this thread or another one i was reading is that seems to be a common problem causing premature wear on the bearing due to it drawing in dirt and if the draw is bad enough, that would indeed cause tuning problems. I want to know how to make it leak oil which i have read is done by plugging up the bypass port. So as i have stated REPEATEDLY, i have already discovered a leak is definitely there with the air and soapy water test. There is a leak in the front bearing, i have proven this as fact, and i'm not just trying to "pin it down as front bearing". IT IS FACT Please read my posts before you comment. This is a hotly debated argument but it seems that almost all nitro engines leak in the front bearing to an extent, but its best for them to leak OUTWARDS which as stated before by others, the oil helps to create this seal. All i am trying to do is achieve this by making my engine leak outwards from the front seal, my plane leaks outwards and runs just fine, my car is almost certainly drawing inwards as to no oil leakage
that still doesn't address the issue of....what if the front bearing is drawing atmosphere INTO the engine. No one has addressed that yet and earlier in this thread or another one i was reading is that seems to be a common problem causing premature wear on the bearing due to it drawing in dirt and if the draw is bad enough, that would indeed cause tuning problems. I want to know how to make it leak oil which i have read is done by plugging up the bypass port. So as i have stated REPEATEDLY, i have already discovered a leak is definitely there with the air and soapy water test. There is a leak in the front bearing, i have proven this as fact, and i'm not just trying to "pin it down as front bearing". IT IS FACT Please read my posts before you comment. This is a hotly debated argument but it seems that almost all nitro engines leak in the front bearing to an extent, but its best for them to leak OUTWARDS which as stated before by others, the oil helps to create this seal. All i am trying to do is achieve this by making my engine leak outwards from the front seal, my plane leaks outwards and runs just fine, my car is almost certainly drawing inwards as to no oil leakage
FWIW though, the front bearing doesn't seal your engine. So the bubble test doesn't mean anything.
10-24-2013 | 07:54 AM
#48
You should break down and inspect your engine first. Look for score lines along the crank and scratches or score on the piston and sleeve and also do a compression test, check the rod for slop and also check your crank pin. If you know how to do all that and everything is good then replace both the bearings and order the BuKU front engine cap. If your engine is good and your tune is right that will solve all your issues. If you are not capable of inspecting your engine yourself send it off to RC Renew. He will tear it down and let you know what's up before doing any work and he can also replace anything you need. Good luck.
10-24-2013 | 08:14 PM
#51
This is not a hobby for the poor but when the poor try and join in it usually makes them poorererererer.
10-24-2013 | 08:57 PM
#52
Tech Rookie
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 17
If it does not "snap" and seal tightly on the front of your engine case, over the bearing it will be a complete waste of time. The worst thing that can happen is if you try a homemade version and it spins on the crankshaft or with your bearing. That will cause all kinda of havoc and all because you tried to save a few $
This is not a hobby for the poor but when the poor try and join in it usually makes them poorererererer.
This is not a hobby for the poor but when the poor try and join in it usually makes them poorererererer.
10-24-2013 | 10:10 PM
#53
that is why "or something similar". which was insinuating finding something that fits snug. Its not cause i'm poor, its cause i'm cheap. Blowing $20 when it is not necessary on what looks like a $0.50 over glorified milk lid with a hole in it, is what makes people go poor. How do you think rich people got to were they are? by being cheap that's how
you get 3 for $20 plus the grease. How much is your time worth? Rich people work smart, not hard. Do what you will. It's your money and your time but if you mess it up, you still have a crappy running engine
10-24-2013 | 10:49 PM
#54
Tech Rookie
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 17
I was planning on buying it anyway. I'm way to lazy to go through that work. All i know is, with the air test, engine leaks at the front bearing but when the engine is running, oil/fuel doesn't leak out, if its not leaking outwards, it must be drawing atmosphere inwards. I read on another thread that blocking the little hole that sits right behind the bearing helps make the engine leak oil through the front bearing instead of drawing it in. If that is true, at least that would be a permanent fix which would never need to be regreased or fiddled with again
10-24-2013 | 10:56 PM
#55
I was planning on buying it anyway. I'm way to lazy to go through that work. All i know is, with the air test, engine leaks at the front bearing but when the engine is running, oil/fuel doesn't leak out, if its not leaking outwards, it must be drawing atmosphere inwards. I read on another thread that blocking the little hole that sits right behind the bearing helps make the engine leak oil through the front bearing instead of drawing it in. If that is true, at least that would be a permanent fix which would never need to be regreased or fiddled with again
10-25-2013 | 02:29 AM
#56
I was planning on buying it anyway. I'm way to lazy to go through that work. All i know is, with the air test, engine leaks at the front bearing but when the engine is running, oil/fuel doesn't leak out, if its not leaking outwards, it must be drawing atmosphere inwards. I read on another thread that blocking the little hole that sits right behind the bearing helps make the engine leak oil through the front bearing instead of drawing it in. If that is true, at least that would be a permanent fix which would never need to be regreased or fiddled with again
10-25-2013 | 06:47 AM
#57
Tech Apprentice
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 98
All this over a piece of shit redcat....wtf...
.Throw that trash in the garbage dewd...phuc...
By your "cheap" ass a "cheap" engine and have some FUN!!!!...
There are plenty to choose from...
What a WASTE of Nitro and more importantly....Time...
10-25-2013 | 07:47 AM
#58
no need to be calling his car or truck or engine or whatever he has a POS dude.. everyone needs to start somewhere.. I am sure that he will learn a thing or two with his redcat and move into some else..
10-25-2013 | 11:27 AM
#59
Tech Rookie
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 17
If you think your engine is leaking all you have to do is gently spray a little brake cleaner towards the engines front bearing while the engine is running...If the engine stalls instantly you know your engine is drawing in atmosphere...its pretty simple to test......Then if you are leaking you can block the bypass and then retest with the brake cleaner again...Usually plugging the bypass will make a big difference in how well the engine handles the brake cleaner test..But where plugging the bypass really comes into full effect is when the engines are run hard with an aggressive( lean ) race tune...By doing this we are seeing a huge increase in front bearing life , to the point front bearings are often lasting the entire lifetime of the engines, even in very dusty conditions...... Only downside is if your tuned rich and not driving hard the engine will want to leak out the front...But IMO that is a small penalty to pay for the extra protection it offers when you run the engines hard and lean.....
Ha yeah it has taught me a lot. NOT TO BUY A REDCAT haha. I agree, it is a POS. Other people have just about gave up the hobby cause of these things. I think i shall by a savage x 4.6 I hear they run pretty good without problems but hey, i already bought the redcat so might as well make the most of it and try to get it working right. I didn't know anything about nitro when i bought it. Stumbled upon it surfing the internet and bought it without much research into the brand. I have a plane i fly now and the redcat mostly sits cause everytime i use it i have to resist the urge to throw it into a wood chipper
10-25-2013 | 11:50 AM
#60
Well i don't race with it. I don't even know anyone else with a nitro r/c car. The thing runs pretty good at full throttle but as soon as you come off it, thats when it craps out. Even with the idle set screw all the way screwed in, still just won't idle, pretty much won't run longer than 5 seconds anywhere below half throttle regardless of rich or lean needle setting. Can you use your front bearing again after taking it out or is it shot once you pull it from the motor?
Ha yeah it has taught me a lot. NOT TO BUY A REDCAT haha. I agree, it is a POS. Other people have just about gave up the hobby cause of these things. I think i shall by a savage x 4.6 I hear they run pretty good without problems but hey, i already bought the redcat so might as well make the most of it and try to get it working right. I didn't know anything about nitro when i bought it. Stumbled upon it surfing the internet and bought it without much research into the brand. I have a plane i fly now and the redcat mostly sits cause everytime i use it i have to resist the urge to throw it into a wood chipper
Ha yeah it has taught me a lot. NOT TO BUY A REDCAT haha. I agree, it is a POS. Other people have just about gave up the hobby cause of these things. I think i shall by a savage x 4.6 I hear they run pretty good without problems but hey, i already bought the redcat so might as well make the most of it and try to get it working right. I didn't know anything about nitro when i bought it. Stumbled upon it surfing the internet and bought it without much research into the brand. I have a plane i fly now and the redcat mostly sits cause everytime i use it i have to resist the urge to throw it into a wood chipper
I believe your looking for a complex solution to a very basic problem..... By you just telling me it wont idle even with the idle screw turned all the way in tells me your needles are going to be completely out of range and the likely source of all your issues...Before we even consider looking at blocking the bypass we need to cover some of the basics..
what fuel are you running and what glowplug are you running ?