so much to read lol... hey old i remember you, and jhautz you too!

honestly i run my car heavy. not saying lighter setups are bad, i just dont have experience with them.
I will agree and say the tekin T8i series is for lighter cars which could be an issue unless you have decided on running their lighter setup.
I would go with a T8 gen 2 motor no bigger then 1900kv for inside and 2050kv for outside.
I run the titanium trinity 4s packs and i love them. as you can see from the videos i have plenty of power lol.
I actually just won our saturday points race this weekend inside! was cool.
you can make the car act the same lighter or heavier. for me its all tires and shocks. again this is just my opinion.
and awesome choice on the ESC! man i love mine. Feel free to pm me for setup help. or just see me at the track. ill be glad to help you

Servo box is 9g, radio box with the 3 screws for the lid is 36g. I have a digital scale I use for cooking, its very accurate.

Ok very serious question......

how in the hell did anyone mount an r8 pro esc in this thing, and why does it smell like burned electrical right out of the box... Help here

Not sure how they mounted them as I don't use one, but I will say both my Orion R10pros smelled the same way..

I mounted mine with that green kyosho sticky gel block. It fits just fine. Love my r8pro

Does anyone run an Upgrade RC Vortex High Downforce wing on the Losi? I know all the AE guys run it and it seems to be a pretty popular wing, but I don't really see any of the TLR guys running them. Does it mess with the handling of the 8ight?

Anyone have problems with the center front dog bone being too short? Part # 242001. Part# 242002 from the rear of the nitro 3.0 fits perfect. Think the E chassis was drilled wrong?

Would the aluminum top plate, losa4440, be beneficial with this car at all over the stock plastic piece?

The aluminum front carriers and rear hubs as well?

The front center dog bone for the 8e is part TLR242002.
The rear center dog bone for the 8e is TLR242009.

Oh good, the E manual I downloaded off tlracing.com and on A main says its the 001. I put my rear nitro 002 in and seems perfect. Thank you for the clarification.

I noticed that a while back that either the manual or exploded diagram had the wrong p/n. Can't remember which. The exploded diagram also has some nitro stuff left on it.

Yeah, that is my bad. The part number on the step in the instructions is wrong...it is however correct in the exploded view.

Ok no problem, I'm glad I'm thinking I was going crazy. I couldn't justify the means of buying a 2nd buggy this year, especially this close to the holidays. Since my local track doesn't run nitro in the winter, I I bought the parts to make my own conversion. I bought the E chassis and the components to go with it, also an extra center diff and steering posts. So all I have to do is switch over the f/r clips, steering linkage, the shock pistons and sway bars. Put on the E body, there I go. Less than half of buying the kit.

what would it take to convert a 3.0 nitro car to a 3.0 electric?

chassis
motor mount
center dog bones

am i missing something?

For the nitro car you just need he electric conversion kit. And a New body