2LikesTLR 8IGHT E 3.0 THREAD
09-04-2013 | 08:55 AM
#467
Tech Initiate
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 23
From: California
[QUOTE
Why can't it have all metric hardware? I had to use about 11/12 different hex/nut drivers of both SAE and Metric varieties. Yuck!
Did I mention all the different screws?
QUOTE]
Metric threads are finer than SAE. Fine threads should not be used in soft material!!
Why can't it have all metric hardware? I had to use about 11/12 different hex/nut drivers of both SAE and Metric varieties. Yuck!
Did I mention all the different screws?
QUOTE]
Metric threads are finer than SAE. Fine threads should not be used in soft material!!
09-04-2013 | 09:12 AM
#468
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 3,558
Built my car and drove it today. A few things I will throw out there as questions or observations.
Why can't it have all metric hardware? I had to use about 11/12 different hex/nut drivers of both SAE and Metric varieties. Yuck!
I had a very stiff front end using the kit oil and I felt that I built it wrong so I re-did the shocks with 37.5 from a big bottle and it was way different. I'm not sure the kit fluid(s) are the same as what's sold in the TLR bottles.
Did I mention all the different screws?
The buggy did do well on our blown out outdoor track tonight box stock. Jumped and turned out of the box.. Isn't that the major things a guy could ask for?
This is the first car I have bought in a while that I had to buy nothing (extra) for to get it to drive well aside from a great servo and electronics. Very good job TLR.
Why can't it have all metric hardware? I had to use about 11/12 different hex/nut drivers of both SAE and Metric varieties. Yuck!
I had a very stiff front end using the kit oil and I felt that I built it wrong so I re-did the shocks with 37.5 from a big bottle and it was way different. I'm not sure the kit fluid(s) are the same as what's sold in the TLR bottles.
Did I mention all the different screws?
The buggy did do well on our blown out outdoor track tonight box stock. Jumped and turned out of the box.. Isn't that the major things a guy could ask for?
This is the first car I have bought in a while that I had to buy nothing (extra) for to get it to drive well aside from a great servo and electronics. Very good job TLR.
09-04-2013 | 10:53 AM
#470
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 3,558
What I am saying is that should we make an entirely new from the ground up platform at some point in the very distant future, it would likely have metric as all of our vehicles use metric today that are new platforms.
09-04-2013 | 10:59 AM
#471
He is saying the will have to scrap the 8ight line and start over with a clean sheet of paper like the 22 before they convert the car over to metric. As long as they are basing the car off the 8ight it will continue to have std hardware.
09-04-2013 | 12:02 PM
#472
Built my car and drove it today. A few things I will throw out there as questions or observations.
I had a very stiff front end using the kit oil and I felt that I built it wrong so I re-did the shocks with 37.5 from a big bottle and it was way different. I'm not sure the kit fluid(s) are the same as what's sold in the TLR bottles.
I had a very stiff front end using the kit oil and I felt that I built it wrong so I re-did the shocks with 37.5 from a big bottle and it was way different. I'm not sure the kit fluid(s) are the same as what's sold in the TLR bottles.
09-04-2013 | 02:39 PM
#476
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 3,558
This car is a whole new beast...it would be good to start with the diff oils of 5/5/5 and go from there. Especially if you are going indoor. If you are going indoor though, I recommend going to 10 deg kick in front instead of 12 and the car will be money. ride height 27/25
09-04-2013 | 03:04 PM
#477
This car is a whole new beast...it would be good to start with the diff oils of 5/5/5 and go from there. Especially if you are going indoor. If you are going indoor though, I recommend going to 10 deg kick in front instead of 12 and the car will be money. ride height 27/25
I was going to go with 5-7-5 to start with and try it indoor and outdoor.
Ryan, what will I feel different with running 7 in the middle instead of 5 that you have found?
One more thing. I'm was going to start the front top shock location at 2. The manual shows the #2 position for the build but the standard setup sheet says #1. Just wondering if anyone caught that.
09-04-2013 | 03:31 PM
#478
10 deg kick for outdoor and 12 deg for indoor? I would have thought the opposite.
I was going to go with 5-7-5 to start with and try it indoor and outdoor.
Ryan, what will I feel different with running 7 in the middle instead of 5 that you have found?
One more thing. I'm was going to start the front top shock location at 2. The manual shows the #2 position for the build but the standard setup sheet says #1. Just wondering if anyone caught that.
I was going to go with 5-7-5 to start with and try it indoor and outdoor.
Ryan, what will I feel different with running 7 in the middle instead of 5 that you have found?
One more thing. I'm was going to start the front top shock location at 2. The manual shows the #2 position for the build but the standard setup sheet says #1. Just wondering if anyone caught that.
7 center will give more drive and take away a bit of steering and can make the car a little more nervous but good for higher bite tracks as it will not unload to the front end as much.
09-04-2013 | 03:37 PM
#480
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 3,558
10 deg kick for outdoor and 12 deg for indoor? I would have thought the opposite.
I was going to go with 5-7-5 to start with and try it indoor and outdoor.
Ryan, what will I feel different with running 7 in the middle instead of 5 that you have found?
One more thing. I'm was going to start the front top shock location at 2. The manual shows the #2 position for the build but the standard setup sheet says #1. Just wondering if anyone caught that.
I was going to go with 5-7-5 to start with and try it indoor and outdoor.
Ryan, what will I feel different with running 7 in the middle instead of 5 that you have found?
One more thing. I'm was going to start the front top shock location at 2. The manual shows the #2 position for the build but the standard setup sheet says #1. Just wondering if anyone caught that.
As for diff oils, 5/7/5 would give you more 4wd effect than 5/5/5. Think of the center diff as your drive or your slipper, the lighter you go in the center, its like running a looser slipper.