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TLR TEN-SCTE 2.0 Kit Thread

Old 08-13-2013, 02:13 PM
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Originally Posted by hacker07
The issue may be the age of your Orion ESC. That esc may have older software which then faults to the sensorless mode. You have to hook it all up with their box and update the software on the esc to their 4 pole software. Then you should be good.

I do have the 4 pole firmware and have tried re downloading the firmware and everything. Still have the same issue. I use the smc 5600 70c packs and I know a bunch of other people that use the same packs without issues but they use the rx8. But I will try to see what I can do.. Anymore suggestions? Also It ran fine with a scx4 5.5t motor I used to have. I didnt have the one second loss of acceleration issue that im having now..
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Old 08-13-2013, 02:15 PM
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Originally Posted by hacker07
The issue may be the age of your Orion ESC. That esc may have older software which then faults to the sensorless mode. You have to hook it all up with their box and update the software on the esc to their 4 pole software. Then you should be good.
Hi Ryan,
I actually have the latest software installed. I can try reinstalling software but It still cuts out. I had one of your team mates drive my truck and he didn't have any problems with the power being cut.
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Old 08-13-2013, 02:21 PM
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Hacker, when you were running the orion pro did you use drag brake in the speedo? Reason I ask is because my truck wants to nose dive right off a jump.
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Old 08-13-2013, 02:26 PM
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Originally Posted by hacker07
That is due to the esc and motor and what you are doing with the throttle, not the setup really. When you run drag brake, you HAVE to stay on the throttle or it will nose dive. Throttle and brake are how you manipulate a truck in the air. So you can stay on throttle or you can turn off drag brake.

Also, go to casper-rc.com and get the latest setup, it is even better.
I figured the drag brake was causing me to dive so quick but Could having to many vents in the Body also cause the truck to dive when air born? I should of drove it with out cutting the body first.
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Old 08-13-2013, 02:31 PM
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In My experience my truck jumps better with the vent holes cut out and I have all of them cut out. Yes, your truck can nose dive with drag break but you can move the battery back to help with this or learn to drive it differently.
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Old 08-13-2013, 02:35 PM
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Originally Posted by glock man
I figured the drag brake was causing me to dive so quick but Could having to many vents in the Body also cause the truck to dive when air born? I should of drove it with out cutting the body first.
this truck is not hugely effected by cutouts in the body and as JoeC stated they tyically help more then the hurt. Drag break will have a huge effect on flight for a 4wd car though.
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Old 08-13-2013, 02:39 PM
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Originally Posted by charlesandstuff
I do have the 4 pole firmware and have tried re downloading the firmware and everything. Still have the same issue. I use the smc 5600 70c packs and I know a bunch of other people that use the same packs without issues but they use the rx8. But I will try to see what I can do.. Anymore suggestions? Also It ran fine with a scx4 5.5t motor I used to have. I didnt have the one second loss of acceleration issue that im having now..
Well, I hate to say it but the RX8 is a very good esc and as well and you can easily sell your R10. In the meantime, unplug the sensor wire in your R10. When the R10 defaults to sensorless mode, it actually cuts the power down. So, if it is going to be there anyways, as might as well have the extra power. The other option is to try to change out the sensor board on the 4600 and see if you get one that makes your orion happy. I worked with them on the 4 pole software and they never opened things up enough to make all motors happy.
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Old 08-13-2013, 02:40 PM
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Originally Posted by JoeC
In My experience my truck jumps better with the vent holes cut out and I have all of them cut out. Yes, your truck can nose dive with drag break but you can move the battery back to help with this or learn to drive it differently.
Moving the battery back will drastically alter how your car works everywhere.
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Old 08-13-2013, 02:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Frank L
Using kyosho 4mm locknuts here and they work well. Still looking for a steel serrated lock nut. The alum ones loosen up over time.

I use the traxxas 4mm flanged surrated steel lock nuts
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Old 08-13-2013, 04:17 PM
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Originally Posted by glock man
Hacker, when you were running the orion pro did you use drag brake in the speedo? Reason I ask is because my truck wants to nose dive right off a jump.
Dont run drag... check the mesh of your sper gear. Make sure you have all the updated Orion 4 pole and re calibrate your Trigger.
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Old 08-13-2013, 04:35 PM
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Well I double checked everything and tried like 4 different sensor wires just to rule it out and then I tried without a sensor wire and it has full power from a dead stop so maybe I just got unlucky and have a sensor board in the 4600 that the esc doesnt like or something. Even though it cogs I guess it will be better than not having any power from a dead stop. I have all the updated orion software too. Unless they just came out with new software in the past couple weeks.
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Old 08-13-2013, 06:18 PM
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Hey Ryan can you please explain how the position of the battery in the 3 different positions offered effects the handling of the truck. I run mine in the rear with the setup I have and it seems to work really well. When I move it to the middle or front I seem to have a nose down issue when jumping but with it all the way back it jumps really well. Would appreciate your input. Thanks.
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Old 08-13-2013, 06:38 PM
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Originally Posted by hacker07
Well, I hate to say it but the RX8 is a very good esc and as well and you can easily sell your R10. In the meantime, unplug the sensor wire in your R10. When the R10 defaults to sensorless mode, it actually cuts the power down. So, if it is going to be there anyways, as might as well have the extra power. The other option is to try to change out the sensor board on the 4600 and see if you get one that makes your orion happy. I worked with them on the 4 pole software and they never opened things up enough to make all motors happy.
I disabled the voltage cut off on my speedo and seems to be fixed. I cant say it is just yet. Ill keep running it and see what happens.
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Old 08-13-2013, 07:47 PM
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Originally Posted by glock man
I disabled the voltage cut off on my speedo and seems to be fixed. I cant say it is just yet. Ill keep running it and see what happens.
So you fixed it by disabling the low voltage?
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Old 08-13-2013, 08:00 PM
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I still think that disabling the LVC is a bad idea. That is telling you something, either the battery is not up to par or something else is going on. The LVC is there to save your battery and safety. I can see possibly turning it down, but not turning it off all together. Maybe try a different LIPO or even one with a higher C rating.
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