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Old 07-27-2013 | 09:42 PM
  #3676  
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Originally Posted by Kevin_M
Where do i buy the power plate for the B6?
They are new for B6


Originally Posted by jccj816
Figure it out what the EB Power plate is. Does it really do everything it says?
Until I get back to my home track, I won't have exact timed mileage runs to compare.

Power wise , my engine rips. The plate does nothing funky to the powerband

I think the most obvious thing you notice is the quicker drop to idle from from full throttle. Gives it a more precise feel

And I do agree with Shcultz , I was getting mileage with this motor with a normal 6.5 Venturi and stock backplate
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Old 07-28-2013 | 12:52 AM
  #3677  
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Originally Posted by Kevin_M
Hello all i am looking for any help. I have the B6 pro and B6 both with a 7mm restricter and running the 2058 pipe. When I have engine tuned for race day it seems all I can get is 7 min on tank.
Anyone using the 6.5 restricter? What kind of power and run time are you getting?
A couple of things to look at but the amount of run time that you are getting is really, really low as we get about 9-9:30 with our Pro guys like Kortz . Check your clutch set up. A 3 shoe clutch slips more than a 4 shoe. Run aluminum shoes unless the track is rutted or loose, they slip less than composite. Make sure your tune is indeed right i.e. you are not running a rich bottom and a lean top (or the other way around). If all of that is ok then you are going to have to take a look at your driving style and throttle application.
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Old 07-31-2013 | 06:16 AM
  #3678  
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Originally Posted by Werks
A couple of things to look at but the amount of run time that you are getting is really, really low as we get about 9-9:30 with our Pro guys like Kortz . Check your clutch set up. A 3 shoe clutch slips more than a 4 shoe. Run aluminum shoes unless the track is rutted or loose, they slip less than composite. Make sure your tune is indeed right i.e. you are not running a rich bottom and a lean top (or the other way around). If all of that is ok then you are going to have to take a look at your driving style and throttle application.
Thanks Ron. I did try out the BUKU clutch again this past race and I will be trying that out for a few more races to see if fuel mileage changes. I was using a 4 shoe clutch with 2 alum and 2 comp shoes. I will bet that the mileage is most likely my driving stile. I will try to get a few tests done with me driving a few tanks and timing it and have a friend thats a much faster driver than I and time them. Either way I am very happy with these engines the 6 and the Pro.

On a side note I am looking at getting back into the truggy racing and was wondering would the B6 be ok for this truck or should I get the B5?
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Old 07-31-2013 | 06:20 AM
  #3679  
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Kevin the B5 with a 2013 is about the best Truggy combo available for under $300
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Old 07-31-2013 | 04:52 PM
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Would anyone have a clutch set up (shoes and springs) for Mugen MBX7 clutch and B6 engine. Any tips on adjusting springs and shoes?
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Old 07-31-2013 | 05:49 PM
  #3681  
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Originally Posted by Bill Carson
Would anyone have a clutch set up (shoes and springs) for Mugen MBX7 clutch and B6 engine. Any tips on adjusting springs and shoes?
what type of track do you run on Bill?

Low, medium or high traction?
small and technical or big and open?
Short run up jumps?
Long straight?
Big air?

Your clutch needs to be set to your track as well as your engine
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Old 07-31-2013 | 07:54 PM
  #3682  
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I ran a B6 in truggy and really liked it.... wheel spin was at minimal and mpg was great
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Old 07-31-2013 | 07:59 PM
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Originally Posted by blktransam
I ran a B6 in truggy and really liked it.... wheel spin was at minimal and mpg was great
Just curious what pipe did you run? 2013?
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Old 08-01-2013 | 12:58 AM
  #3684  
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Originally Posted by Jaz240
what type of track do you run on Bill?

Low, medium or high traction?
small and technical or big and open?
Short run up jumps?
Long straight?
Big air?

Your clutch needs to be set to your track as well as your engine
Mostly Medium traction, big and open, but a mix of short run up and big air jumps. Thanks for any help that you can provide!
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Old 08-06-2013 | 08:37 PM
  #3685  
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Time to call it quits?(Markings)
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Old 08-06-2013 | 10:08 PM
  #3686  
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Originally Posted by Pitstop TQ
Time to call it quits?(Markings)
They don't look very deep. Just minor surface scratches. Does it run well or tuning and flame out issues?
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Old 08-07-2013 | 10:55 AM
  #3687  
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Originally Posted by Jaz240
They don't look very deep. Just minor surface scratches. Does it run well or tuning and flame out issues?
Definitely have tuning and flameout issues. I traced it to the front bearing and noticed the markings as well.
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Old 08-11-2013 | 03:57 PM
  #3688  
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Few quick questions, I did a tear down on my engine and found what seems to be a lot of play in the rod and crank pin, I measured my pin as 4.85-4.90 and my rod as 5.05-5.07, would you say it's time to replace the rod? This engine saw dirt at one point so wouldn't shock me if it needed a new one.
Also when I went to pull the crankshaft out, I also got the rear bearing, but it won't come off the crankshaft. Any suggestions?
Thanks for the help.
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Old 08-11-2013 | 04:05 PM
  #3689  
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Originally Posted by honda237
Few quick questions, I did a tear down on my engine and found what seems to be a lot of play in the rod and crank pin, I measured my pin as 4.85-4.90 and my rod as 5.05-5.07, would you say it's time to replace the rod? This engine saw dirt at one point so wouldn't shock me if it needed a new one.
Also when I went to pull the crankshaft out, I also got the rear bearing, but it won't come off the crankshaft. Any suggestions?
Thanks for the help.
That crank pin is toast... Anything under 4.93 is getting to be to much slop, even with new rod. My opinion....
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Old 08-11-2013 | 04:13 PM
  #3690  
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Don't say that. Lol
Where can I get a new crankshaft for the pro?
Also would that cause an idle issue? It would idle, then all of a sudden get low and stall. It wasnt the time and compression seems fine.
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