Ok im getting baffled with the T4.1 v2 shocks for some reason they will just not bleed when i push the shaft up ! I pretreaded the holes in the caps it looks like there is no Blurrs blocking the oil from coming out when bleeding. So when i try to push the shaft all the way up to bleed air bubbles are created ?

The shocks feel smooth and i tighten the cap all the way with the cap O-ring slide onto the shock body .

I never had this issue with the Losi alum caps Emosion style they always bleed.

Are you sure you have enough oil in them. You need to fill them to the top and then add a little to the cap to get enough in the shock body

Yup did that no success. It did bleed out the one drop of oil i out into the cap when i screwed it on but after i pushed the shaft up nothing and it just created air bubbles all the way to the top.

I even took the O-ring off the shock body and put it into the cap still the samething.

I just received my t4.1+ today and am pumped to get it out on the track this weekend. I plan on putting in a 10.5 motor. I run on high-bite clay, indoor, medium large sized track. I do prefer more low end than high end, does anyone have a pinion/spur combo they would recommend based off of the info above?

With my SC10, I'm running the stock Reedy motor/gear combo and am having a good time with it, but I'm not sure where to start at with this t4.1.

Thanks.

A good starting point is 19/87, keep a check on your motor temps then gear up or down depending on what you want. I run this gear combination in my T4 on a medium outdoor track and it works very well for me.

^thanks. i ended up just putting the stock rtr motor out of my sc10 in, a reedy 3300kv. i may upgrade to a 17.5 later on.

man, i just saw this post AFTER i ordered my JC Axles and SC10 alum hexes (x4). looks like I lucked out when ordering.

here is what i ordered from aMain:
1 x JConcepts T4 12mm Hex Conversion Front Axle Set (JCI2170)
2 x Team Associated 12mm Aluminum Rear Clamping Wheel Hex Set (Blue) (2) (ASC9892)

today was my first day on the clay with my t4.1 and i used the AE SC10 plastic hexes on JC wheels, and wow were they snug fitting inside the wheels. it almost felt like they were too big, i had to push them into place with my hex driver. this was enough for me to say no thanks to the plastic and to order up the aluminum hexes, as well as the JC axles.

First time racing/driving this truck jumps good its a very netural handling 2wd truck . I raced it on a tight indoor carpet track with the stock factory tires . I did need to lower the front ride height . And go out a hole on the front tower the middle hole to get it to turn sharper . Has anybody tried the 76t spur on a novak 13.5 motor ? With a 87t/22t it lacks mid to top end speed . Im running a gtb esc .

I just installed a pair of JConcepts front axles, and AE aluminum hexes on my T4.1. Is it Saturday yet?!?! I NEED SOME CLAY!!!

And the mods continue, I added the 10b Shock Tower and GullWing arms yesterday while at my local track. They do make a huge difference! It eliminated a lot of the understeer that I would experience when cornering under mid throttle. The steering is much improved!

Oh i do for sure even on a indoor carpet offroad track. I notice that after driving a T4.2 it would turn in a lot and have much more steering even on throttle.

Received my SC10 4x4 turnbuckle kit, will put it on when I get to the track today. Adios popped ball cups!!!

Regarding the ball ends popping off do you have to use SC10 4x4 parts? I had some Durango camber links and Traxxas captured ball ends lying around and decided to see if they would fit. After I installed them I checked for clearance and binding and everything looked good. The Durango links are 4mm, but made out of aluminum so there pretty light.


This is what I was running, Lunsford HD ball cups.


Durango 4mm links on left, Lunsford in the middle and stock 3mm on the right.


Durango links installed.

Those Durango's look good man!

hello everyone,

im just getting back into rc after about a year off. prior to my break my truck was absolutely dialed in for my home track. yester day i went up there and after 5 min my motor temp was 190*. and my truck has soooo much under steer im having to slam on the brakes and whip my rear end around corners to make them with decent time.

im hoping i can get some in put on gearing and shock set up/ steering setup

my track is a 90x100 its a rubber surface i can describe as a high bite clay or blue groove maybe?
current gearing 81/23
im running a MMP with a reedy sonic 13.5. With Losi sliders front and rear.

front shock towers number 1 hole up top and out side on the arms.
tie rods are set to inside on the tower and midle on my casters

in the rear im in the middle hole up top and the inside hole on the arms.

front set at -1 and rear zero


iv tried multiple set ups from team assoc web site

thanks guys

Well I sold my B4.2 and bought a T4-1.75....

I just like the way the trucks handles our big jump track and they look a lot better than those moon buggies lol...

I just got everything together and took her for a spin, loved the way she drives.

I hoping to see the 2wd truck class take off again, it looks like a really fun class.

I spoke to a lot of racers that were running 2 classes "Buggy / 2wd Truck" & 3 classes "Buggy / SCT / 2wd Truck"
and everyone I spoke too sayed they picked the 2wd Truck classes over all of the classes. They said it pretty much turns like a buggy but is more stable like a truck. It sounds like it's the best of both worlds. I know a lot of the pro drives also say that 2wd Truck is their preferred class.

My Setup:
T4-1.75 "Everything but the Hexes"
Orion R10 Race 90 Amp "With R Series Setting Box"
Orion VST Pro 17.5 & 8.5
Orion WST 90c 4000 Mah lipos
94770 Airtronics Servo