Hi all,

Sorry if this has been mentioned, which tires work for TQ's carpet track? Slicks with soft insert, Slicks with hard insert, or S grip?

Thanks
Danny

Thanks guys, I'll check the points mentioned.

We wanted a little less voo doo (silvercan) & more drive time (less maintenance) and went with the HW 13T combo. Couldn't happier with how the mini's drive now. Zippy little cars. Great value as well.

This setup is NOT widely accepted here in the States. They are allowed at some club races. ymmv

HW 13T are a great system. A bit much for shorter tracks, but definitely a great value for the money.

Anyone know the new color for the soon to be released M05 Pro? #84359

So my 3Racing oil dampers and aluminum steering showed up yesterday for my new M-05. Only oil I've got on hand at the moment is 0 and 10 weight so I went ahead and built them with the unlabeled oil from the kit. I have some Tamiya springs coming as well (P/N 53333), but not here yet so I'm on the 3racing springs. The problem I had out running today was some really bad snap oversteer under braking. This is my first Tamiya M-Scale (I've got a Cup Racer) and and my first FF car since ~1995-1996 when I had a FF01 so I'm a little out of my element as far as tuning is concerned. I assume softer rear, harder front of course, but what else should I be looking at? I want to replace the oil right away, what oil weight is going to be a good jumping off point?

Turn the timing down on the esc.

Sounds most like a tire problem. Try some others. Gotta have some decent tires.

Usually the kits come with a yellow oil and a clear oil. The clear oil is pretty heavy, but the yellow oil is the equivalent of 40 wt.

I'd suggest going back in the thread and doing a little research. There's tons of set up advice. For example, if you go back one or two pages, You'll find what the Aussies are using. Also w/out knowing whether the car is SWB, MWB, or LWB makes it tough cause, at least for me, they set up a little differently.

Anyone?

The only speed gears I've ever tried that are any good at all, are the ones made by ABR. I think they're Delrin or something. I've abused the bejesus out of 'em and they don't fail. M-Chassis carries them, if and when they're available.

Can't say I know anything about the Eagle ones, but given the quality of their other product (that I've seen) I wouldn't bother.

ABR Speed-tuned gears are now no longer available.

Dang, too bad...

Thanks for the info monkeyracing.

I'm aware that tires are going to be a big part of the final equation, unfortunately my final track surface isn't yet finished so I'm not quite ready for delving into tires.

I'm currently running 210mm, but I have a 225mm body I'm going to start painting tomorrow. Safe to assume the 225mm will be less prone to oversteer?

I would check that all wheels are spinning free. I have seen a lot of people "pinch" the bearings with the wheel nut. Personally I use a spacer between the bearings (inside the carrier) to avoid this very problem.

Sounds like you have a bad case of "liftoff oversteer" a very well known problem of all FWD cars (even real ones). Tires are a significant part of the equation, weight distribution and transfer another.

A quick check (after you checked the wheels are free spinning) is to use (if you have) a NiCd or Nimh battery (or load your Lipo to equivalent weight). The weight difference might be the ticket. If the car behaves then, you know where the problem is and can address it then.

Too soft a front shock and damper might allow too much weight transfer too as can too much rear droop. A combination of all to the most undesired effect is of course quite possible.

If you don't want to buy tires, find someone who can lend you a set of Hpi cross x pattern radials and run them on good, clean tarmac until they are warmed up. If your car is still tete-a-queueing under braking with those, you've got to work on your setup.

Yes 210mm performs up to a certain speed. I used to run 210 when rnning silvercan but nowdays this confiq is just way too nervous.