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Old 04-21-2013 | 12:08 PM
  #28516  
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Originally Posted by Rc-007
Is the b4.1 rtr brushless a good first rc? Sure looks fun
What are you going to do with it? Bash or race or both?

If you're going to race, I'd go for the B4.1 but not an RTR. You'd want to get your own electronics as RTR on most any brand vehicle are junky.

If you're going to bash, find a Traxxas Bandit if you want a 2wd buggy.

If you're going to do both, that's a tough call 'coz nobody makes a good basher/racer combo IMHO.
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Old 04-21-2013 | 01:26 PM
  #28517  
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I might bash a little bit but really want to race(club racing). The rate is like at the top of my budget for the truck. Besides price, the reason i wanted a rtr is just cuz ive never owned a honby rc and i could learn anout the electronics and stuff. I could always upgrade the electronics later on. I could get a roller for $120 hopefully with a servo, 17.5 brushless motor/esc for about $130 and 2.4 Ghz for around $60. So that would be around $300.
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Old 04-21-2013 | 01:31 PM
  #28518  
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Originally Posted by Rc-007
I might bash a little bit but really want to race(club racing). The rate is like at the top of my budget for the truck. Besides price, the reason i wanted a rtr is just cuz ive never owned a honby rc and i could learn anout the electronics and stuff. I could always upgrade the electronics later on. I could get a roller for $120 hopefully with a servo, 17.5 brushless motor/esc for about $130 and 2.4 Ghz for around $60. So that would be around $300.
If you were to shop around in the f/s section here you could probably find a factory team b4.1 for around $150 and then save up and get a good brushless combo from novak or viper for around 150-200max (less if used) and then a decent radio for another $100 or so. You are into it for a little bit more but you wont have to upgrade anything down the line and you will have better quality equipment from the get go.
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Old 04-21-2013 | 05:19 PM
  #28519  
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Originally Posted by bambambennett
Tossed mine in the trash. I found the extra stiffness of the brace caused multiple shock towers to break, along with my wild driving(LOL). Still drive wild but dont break shock towers with the plastic Ubrace. It also twisted a bit after a few bad tumbles which is probably why I started to break shock towers.
ok thank you
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Old 04-21-2013 | 09:44 PM
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Originally Posted by bambambennett
Tossed mine in the trash. I found the extra stiffness of the brace caused multiple shock towers to break, along with my wild driving(LOL). Still drive wild but dont break shock towers with the plastic Ubrace. It also twisted a bit after a few bad tumbles which is probably why I started to break shock towers.
Anyone else having bad experiences with the aluminum brace?

I have one but not installed yet, so, should I do it or not?
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Old 04-21-2013 | 09:47 PM
  #28521  
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Originally Posted by Rc-007
Is the b4.1 rtr brushless a good first rc? Sure looks fun
Hideeho
The buggy, YES! The electronics, NO! I would recommend getting a used worlds car from the for sale section here or ebay for $100-$150 (look for lots of spare parts & lots of wheels), a used transmitter & receiver (spektrum dx2s w/ receiver $50-$80), a new or used servo (Savox 1257 $65 new, $40-$50 used or a solar d771 from www.hobbypartz.com for $25 shipped), a new or used ESC & motor (speed passion reventon r with 17.5 motor $90 shipped new on eBay), new lipo (I like SMC form www.smc-racing.com, their 5100mah 30c is $24.95 or the 5600mah 70c is $39.95, turnigy from www.hobbyking.com can be a few $ cheaper, but won't last as long), I'm undecided on a charger (cheap ones from hobbyking or Hobbypartz will get the job done for around $40-$50, but you will end up upgrading eventually to a nice charger like a Hyperion eos720i net for $130 new or $75+/- used).

That gives you a range of $330-$555. At the low end you MAY end up upgrading the charger, the lipo, & the servo within a year or so, & having to buy more parts. At the high end, you should be good to go for a few years.
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Old 04-21-2013 | 09:58 PM
  #28522  
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Originally Posted by shagnat
Anyone else having bad experiences with the aluminum brace?

I have one but not installed yet, so, should I do it or not?
Hideeho
I have not seen any breakage that I blame on the aluminum u-brace at all. I did break a ball stud, but while I had it off for a few days before getting the broken piece out, I broke another one in a plastic u-brace. Both broke because the stud backed out & got loose (forgot to use locktite on the aluminum which won't work in plastic). The only rear tower I ever broke was on a plastic u-brace (hitting a jump way wrong & going into the wall at full speed tower first will do that).

I see no reason not to, but then again, unless you are breaking lots of plastic u-braces like my kids did, I no reason to spend the extra $.
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Old 04-21-2013 | 11:07 PM
  #28523  
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Originally Posted by Waflet
Hideeho
I have not seen any breakage that I blame on the aluminum u-brace at all. I did break a ball stud, but while I had it off for a few days before getting the broken piece out, I broke another one in a plastic u-brace. Both broke because the stud backed out & got loose (forgot to use locktite on the aluminum which won't work in plastic). The only rear tower I ever broke was on a plastic u-brace (hitting a jump way wrong & going into the wall at full speed tower first will do that).

I see no reason not to, but then again, unless you are breaking lots of plastic u-braces like my kids did, I no reason to spend the extra $.
The reason I bought one (other than the strength) was because it is already shaved. Otherwise it wouldn't really matter to me either way.
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Old 04-21-2013 | 11:30 PM
  #28524  
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Originally Posted by Waflet
Hideeho
I have not seen any breakage that I blame on the aluminum u-brace at all. I did break a ball stud, but while I had it off for a few days before getting the broken piece out, I broke another one in a plastic u-brace. Both broke because the stud backed out & got loose (forgot to use locktite on the aluminum which won't work in plastic). The only rear tower I ever broke was on a plastic u-brace (hitting a jump way wrong & going into the wall at full speed tower first will do that).

I see no reason not to, but then again, unless you are breaking lots of plastic u-braces like my kids did, I no reason to spend the extra $.
Why don't you run one of the really long ball stud, and a plain nut on the bottom?

Originally Posted by shagnat
The reason I bought one (other than the strength) was because it is already shaved. Otherwise it wouldn't really matter to me either way.
Why didn't you just shave the brace on your car?
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Old 04-21-2013 | 11:33 PM
  #28525  
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Originally Posted by ifuonlyknew
Why don't you run one of the really long ball stud, and a plain nut on the bottom?



Why didn't you just shave the brace on your car?
That one is simple to answer. Because I only had one, was looking to buy a 2nd just in case (my "skills" are lacking) I goofed up the only one I had so, I bought the one that was already shaved which happens to be aluminum.

Between the arthritis and my shaky hands, I don't trust such fine detail work that I would do........ see, simple, right?!
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Old 04-22-2013 | 02:38 PM
  #28526  
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Originally Posted by ifuonlyknew
Why don't you run one of the really long ball stud, and a plain nut on the bottom?



Why didn't you just shave the brace on your car?
Hideeho
Thats what I have done on the aluminum u-brace so it will be easier to get the broken piece out. The ideal fix would be titanium studs, I can't afford those
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Old 04-24-2013 | 06:33 PM
  #28527  
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Anybody know if tank power Lipos are any good?
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Old 04-24-2013 | 07:57 PM
  #28528  
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Originally Posted by 5th wheel
Anybody know if tank power Lipos are any good?
My guess is if they are "tank power" they wouldn't really translate to off road racing.
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Old 04-24-2013 | 08:33 PM
  #28529  
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Never heard of "tank" lipos............ but that's not saying much for me.
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Old 04-24-2013 | 09:20 PM
  #28530  
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Originally Posted by 5th wheel
Anybody know if tank power Lipos are any good?
I think he mean trak power lipos. I would try the promatch or smc packs.
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