RC10B4.1 FT/WC
sorry, I dont know anything about novaks. might look for a novak thread. not many people use them here.
Tech Regular
iTrader: (6)
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 400
From: Park Hills, MO
lol, you cant blame the receiver issue on the b4. did you set your diff according to the video. the slipper should slip before the diff slips. the shipper should be set to 2-3 inches. I run my diff as loose as I can and still get the 2-3 inch lift and not bark the diff. make sure you assembled the diff right. and check to make sure you correctly assembled the thrust bearing.
Tech Regular
iTrader: (6)
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 400
From: Park Hills, MO
Ohh, and btw the whole 75/31 gearing is slow as molasses. lol i could run as fast as it drives. 
im gonna gear it down to the 69/34/35 and see what that does. may just sell the 17.5 and get a mod motor..

im gonna gear it down to the 69/34/35 and see what that does. may just sell the 17.5 and get a mod motor..
Tech Regular
iTrader: (6)
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 400
From: Park Hills, MO
Tech Regular
iTrader: (6)
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 400
From: Park Hills, MO
yeah, i really dont believe that it is geared correctly. im going out to my lhs after work today to try and get it all set up. i believe it is the thrust bearings that are not set up right..
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 8,616
From: New Jersey
lol, you cant blame the receiver issue on the b4. did you set your diff according to the video. the slipper should slip before the diff slips. the shipper should be set to 2-3 inches. I run my diff as loose as I can and still get the 2-3 inch lift and not bark the diff. make sure you assembled the diff right. and check to make sure you correctly assembled the thrust bearing.
Tech Regular
iTrader: (6)
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 400
From: Park Hills, MO
hey try running your diff a little tighter next time you are outside and see if that helps your car from stepping out on you. I know the tighter I ran mine, the better it was in that aspect but the more it would push. From what I remember in your video, that push won't hurt you.
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 8,616
From: New Jersey
AE diffs suck.... they feel gritty quickly and that's because of the thrust bearing. well most of the time anyway. If you build it right, and it's perfect, I'm told most guys still only get 2-3 weeks on a diff. Myself, I run the thing for 2 or 3 months before I even think about touching it... My diff usually feels gritty after 3 runs but will stay the same for 3 months... it doesn't get worse until it just goes. When I get more anal and am more prepared, then I'll slap a new diff in every month. I actually am going to build a complete second transmission and just swap it out for rebuilds / big races etc...
Tech Regular
iTrader: (6)
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 400
From: Park Hills, MO
AE diffs suck.... they feel gritty quickly and that's because of the thrust bearing. well most of the time anyway. If you build it right, and it's perfect, I'm told most guys still only get 2-3 weeks on a diff. Myself, I run the thing for 2 or 3 months before I even think about touching it... My diff usually feels gritty after 3 runs but will stay the same for 3 months... it doesn't get worse until it just goes. When I get more anal and am more prepared, then I'll slap a new diff in every month. I actually am going to build a complete second transmission and just swap it out for rebuilds / big races etc...

From what i have been reading i believe it is the thrust bearing as well..
well see i did the "break in" and held the back left tire and gave it some onion and the right back spun but it seemed rough, and when i hold the back right and give it some onion the left wheels spins smooth as a babys butt and doesnt feel bad at all.. 
From what i have been reading i believe it is the thrust bearing as well..

From what i have been reading i believe it is the thrust bearing as well..
This sounds like you might have a problem somewhere else. Mine was doing this and one of the set screws had backed out in the CVD and was rubbing causing vibration.
Tech Rookie
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 12
Hello
I'm starting at the RC. I'm thinking of buying this car (RTR version).
I'll buy from an online store. It will cost me about 240 €.
I have some questions. What is the battery (LiPo) that you guys recommend?
What is the maximum size of battery (LiPo)?
If I know someone explain how can I choose a good charger for my lipo.
thanks in advance
I'm starting at the RC. I'm thinking of buying this car (RTR version).
I'll buy from an online store. It will cost me about 240 €.
I have some questions. What is the battery (LiPo) that you guys recommend?
What is the maximum size of battery (LiPo)?
If I know someone explain how can I choose a good charger for my lipo.
thanks in advance
AE diffs suck.... they feel gritty quickly and that's because of the thrust bearing. well most of the time anyway. If you build it right, and it's perfect, I'm told most guys still only get 2-3 weeks on a diff. Myself, I run the thing for 2 or 3 months before I even think about touching it... My diff usually feels gritty after 3 runs but will stay the same for 3 months... it doesn't get worse until it just goes. When I get more anal and am more prepared, then I'll slap a new diff in every month. I actually am going to build a complete second transmission and just swap it out for rebuilds / big races etc...
Pro-tip: Cut down an earplug to jam in the thrust side. Makes adjusting the diff a little more difficult, but keeps the thrust fresh longer.



