RC10B4.1 FT/WC
03-28-2013 | 01:05 PM
sounds good, yeah i cant handle a pooch ass car, i have more thottle control and be consistent and know that the power is there than to know that the power isnt there you know? i just want the best setup i could possibly get. ill find it eventually.
is there any other spur gears i should get once i get the 69?
or do i use all the different pinions with the 69t spur? such as 25-36?
is there any other spur gears i should get once i get the 69? or do i use all the different pinions with the 69t spur? such as 25-36?
03-28-2013 | 01:06 PM
Tech Regular
iTrader: (6)
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 400
From: Park Hills, MO
As the other guys said, there are two ways to add timing.
1. Boost - this is done via the ESC
2. Mechanical - this is done via adjusting the motor's endbell.
MOST tracks run blinky, which means no boost on your ESC (light will blink to signify, hence the name blinky). You should clarify this with the track before you do anything because that changes your gearing and everything else.
50C batteries will be fine, but keep in mind the higher the better for when you want new ones. SMC makes good packs at a good price. I prefer shortys but thats up to you and your car.
Charging rate... most guys do say 5 amps for everything. My own charger only goes to 5 amps. But if you want to get the most power, you need to be able to charge at a higher rate.
1. Boost - this is done via the ESC
2. Mechanical - this is done via adjusting the motor's endbell.
MOST tracks run blinky, which means no boost on your ESC (light will blink to signify, hence the name blinky). You should clarify this with the track before you do anything because that changes your gearing and everything else.
50C batteries will be fine, but keep in mind the higher the better for when you want new ones. SMC makes good packs at a good price. I prefer shortys but thats up to you and your car.
Charging rate... most guys do say 5 amps for everything. My own charger only goes to 5 amps. But if you want to get the most power, you need to be able to charge at a higher rate.
as far as charging goes yes, i have been charging both my fantoms at 5 A. seems to be just fine for power.. for now.
03-28-2013 | 01:06 PM
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 8,616
From: New Jersey
sounds good, yeah i cant handle a pooch ass car, i have more thottle control and be consistent and know that the power is there than to know that the power isnt there you know? i just want the best setup i could possibly get. ill find it eventually. is there any other spur gears i should get once i get the 69?
or do i use all the different pinions with the 69t spur? such as 25-36?
is there any other spur gears i should get once i get the 69? or do i use all the different pinions with the 69t spur? such as 25-36?
Eventually you'll want to get 21-24 for mod.
You can also get a 72 and a 78 so you have an option to move the motor forward / backwards for both stock and mod. I also have a 75 just for good measure.
03-28-2013 | 01:13 PM
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 8,616
From: New Jersey
Right, my home track here does run stock class as "blinky" mode. so my esc must be in that. in all honesty i have no clue how to adjust the "endbell" for motor timing. im sure my local hobby shop could help me with this.
as far as charging goes yes, i have been charging both my fantoms at 5 A. seems to be just fine for power.. for now.
as far as charging goes yes, i have been charging both my fantoms at 5 A. seems to be just fine for power.. for now.
Sounds like you are on the right path though. Just keep going that way.
Also the one thing I can't stress enough...make sure your car is mechanically sound and squared up... toe right, camber right, ride height correct, diff and slipper right... NO amount of tires / chassis tuning / shocks will fix a car that is a hot mess.
Personal note, I completely rebuild my car (minus diff) from top to bottom and clean it with WD40 every week. This insures you find broken / worn parts and keeps your car looking new. (ok so I admit I have been slacking on this over the last month :P)
03-28-2013 | 01:14 PM
As the other guys said, there are two ways to add timing.
1. Boost - this is done via the ESC
2. Mechanical - this is done via adjusting the motor's endbell.
MOST tracks run blinky, which means no boost on your ESC (light will blink to signify, hence the name blinky). You should clarify this with the track before you do anything because that changes your gearing and everything else.
50C batteries will be fine, but keep in mind the higher the better for when you want new ones. SMC makes good packs at a good price. I prefer shortys but thats up to you and your car.
Charging rate... most guys do say 5 amps for everything. My own charger only goes to 5 amps. But if you want to get the most power, you need to be able to charge at a higher rate.
1. Boost - this is done via the ESC
2. Mechanical - this is done via adjusting the motor's endbell.
MOST tracks run blinky, which means no boost on your ESC (light will blink to signify, hence the name blinky). You should clarify this with the track before you do anything because that changes your gearing and everything else.
50C batteries will be fine, but keep in mind the higher the better for when you want new ones. SMC makes good packs at a good price. I prefer shortys but thats up to you and your car.
Charging rate... most guys do say 5 amps for everything. My own charger only goes to 5 amps. But if you want to get the most power, you need to be able to charge at a higher rate.
03-28-2013 | 01:16 PM
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 8,616
From: New Jersey
My understanding that this is flase, unless your higher C rated charge warms up the pack. And stay warm for the start of the race. The reason is that LIPO's IR changes with temp. Lower IR with heat and higher IR as temps drop. So the higher C rated charge only increases punch if the charge rate warms up the pack, otherwise not real gain. Danny from SMC and Jang did a bunch of IR testing and those were the results from both.
I spoke with one of the guys and he charges at 20 amps
but he admitted he saw no performance over 10 amps. It was just so that his packs charged quicker.
03-28-2013 | 01:25 PM
the touring guys have sniffed too much paragon. you cant beleive anything they say.
03-28-2013 | 01:29 PM
Tech Regular
iTrader: (6)
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 400
From: Park Hills, MO
three screws on the back plate of the motor.. loosen them and rotate. Best to just leave it be though if you don't know what you are doing because you can seriously mess up your motor / performance.
Sounds like you are on the right path though. Just keep going that way.
Also the one thing I can't stress enough...make sure your car is mechanically sound and squared up... toe right, camber right, ride height correct, diff and slipper right... NO amount of tires / chassis tuning / shocks will fix a car that is a hot mess.
Personal note, I completely rebuild my car (minus diff) from top to bottom and clean it with WD40 every week. This insures you find broken / worn parts and keeps your car looking new. (ok so I admit I have been slacking on this over the last month :P)
Sounds like you are on the right path though. Just keep going that way.
Also the one thing I can't stress enough...make sure your car is mechanically sound and squared up... toe right, camber right, ride height correct, diff and slipper right... NO amount of tires / chassis tuning / shocks will fix a car that is a hot mess.
Personal note, I completely rebuild my car (minus diff) from top to bottom and clean it with WD40 every week. This insures you find broken / worn parts and keeps your car looking new. (ok so I admit I have been slacking on this over the last month :P)
i feel like i have set up my b4 pretty well. it was my first kit that i have built and i used ryan cavalaries (or however you spell it) setup sheet to adjust my toe, ride hight, camber, and shocks.
by the way that it sounds i am not going to like the spur/pinion set up that i have but i will take you guys's word and work my way faster!!
i am going over to my local track in about an hour after i get out of work to get my esc/motor wires soldered up and break in this ball diff and see what i can't do on the track..
i read a bit about breaking one in and i believe i have it figured out..
03-28-2013 | 01:41 PM
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 8,616
From: New Jersey
yeah, i wont get into motor timing until i feel confident enough doing so.
i feel like i have set up my b4 pretty well. it was my first kit that i have built and i used ryan cavalaries (or however you spell it) setup sheet to adjust my toe, ride hight, camber, and shocks.
by the way that it sounds i am not going to like the spur/pinion set up that i have but i will take you guys's word and work my way faster!!
i am going over to my local track in about an hour after i get out of work to get my esc/motor wires soldered up and break in this ball diff and see what i can't do on the track..
i read a bit about breaking one in and i believe i have it figured out..
i feel like i have set up my b4 pretty well. it was my first kit that i have built and i used ryan cavalaries (or however you spell it) setup sheet to adjust my toe, ride hight, camber, and shocks.
by the way that it sounds i am not going to like the spur/pinion set up that i have but i will take you guys's word and work my way faster!!
i am going over to my local track in about an hour after i get out of work to get my esc/motor wires soldered up and break in this ball diff and see what i can't do on the track..
i read a bit about breaking one in and i believe i have it figured out..
!! true story.. 
03-29-2013 | 06:19 AM
Tech Regular
iTrader: (6)
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 400
From: Park Hills, MO
well guys, i gave her a go around yesterday and i'll say things didnt go smooth. at all.. something about my diff isnt right. doesnt feel smooth at all on the right side when i hold the back left wheel.
I bought a reciever as well to bind to a radio i am already using, and it wouldnt bind for anything.. terrible time trying to run my b4.
I bought a reciever as well to bind to a radio i am already using, and it wouldnt bind for anything.. terrible time trying to run my b4.
03-29-2013 | 06:29 AM
well guys, i gave her a go around yesterday and i'll say things didnt go smooth. at all.. something about my diff isnt right. doesnt feel smooth at all on the right side when i hold the back left wheel.
I bought a reciever as well to bind to a radio i am already using, and it wouldnt bind for anything.. terrible time trying to run my b4.
I bought a reciever as well to bind to a radio i am already using, and it wouldnt bind for anything.. terrible time trying to run my b4.
http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...er-clutch.html
As far as the receiver, did you buy it from your LHS? They should be able to assist you with getting it bound to your transmitter.
03-29-2013 | 06:32 AM
lol, you cant blame the receiver issue on the b4. did you set your diff according to the video. the slipper should slip before the diff slips. the shipper should be set to 2-3 inches. I run my diff as loose as I can and still get the 2-3 inch lift and not bark the diff. make sure you assembled the diff right. and check to make sure you correctly assembled the thrust bearing.