RC10B4.1 FT/WC
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 8,616
From: New Jersey
I say leave it be until you can go 5 min without getting marshalled. Then go 34-35 / 69
Tech Regular
iTrader: (6)
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 400
From: Park Hills, MO
you will get around the track, but you won't be fast. If you are racing against guys who are good stock drivers, you'll think they are cheating. There's that much of a speed difference in the setup you posted.
I say leave it be until you can go 5 min without getting marshalled. Then go 34-35 / 69
I say leave it be until you can go 5 min without getting marshalled. Then go 34-35 / 69
Tech Regular
iTrader: (6)
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 400
From: Park Hills, MO
i suppose i am going to try the 69 34 and ill get a 35 as well and see what i think.
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 8,616
From: New Jersey
I suggest you grab 33,34,35,36 for pinions. This covers you for different layouts, different temp days, etc.... The difference between 34 and 35 can be minor or it can be huge. There's a lot of variables.
Remember, one misconception is that 17.5 class is a 'stock or beginner' class. In fact it's a spec class. If you want to go fast, you have to get the most of your gear.
Worry about all of that AFTER you are able to run consistently without wrecking. You can have the fastest car on the track and as soon as you blow one turn, you are in last. That's the nature of spec racing. Consistent beats fast every time.
Things you can do to generate more power, but mind you, everything comes at a price. Power = heat = wear :
-Tune your motor so that it is efficient and produces power without generating heat by adjusting the timing. I had someone with a 'motor checker/dyno' help me here. Every motor is different. For example my Viper motors are happy around 45 deg timing, where others may be better around 30 or 50, depending on the motors.
-Gear up so your car is max speed 3/4 down the straight. That is a starting point... tune up or down accordingly, keeping temps down below 150. The lower the better though.
-use higher C rated batteries, 60C+
-charge at a higher amp rate. 8-10 amps
Remember, one misconception is that 17.5 class is a 'stock or beginner' class. In fact it's a spec class. If you want to go fast, you have to get the most of your gear.
Worry about all of that AFTER you are able to run consistently without wrecking. You can have the fastest car on the track and as soon as you blow one turn, you are in last. That's the nature of spec racing. Consistent beats fast every time.
Things you can do to generate more power, but mind you, everything comes at a price. Power = heat = wear :
-Tune your motor so that it is efficient and produces power without generating heat by adjusting the timing. I had someone with a 'motor checker/dyno' help me here. Every motor is different. For example my Viper motors are happy around 45 deg timing, where others may be better around 30 or 50, depending on the motors.
-Gear up so your car is max speed 3/4 down the straight. That is a starting point... tune up or down accordingly, keeping temps down below 150. The lower the better though.
-use higher C rated batteries, 60C+
-charge at a higher amp rate. 8-10 amps
i haven't even ran my buggy yet, i just got it put together.. i dont want to say im a expert driver, but im not beginner either.. wanting to run this buggy in stock class and mod. i dont want to be poochin around the track
i suppose i am going to try the 69 34 and ill get a 35 as well and see what i think.
i suppose i am going to try the 69 34 and ill get a 35 as well and see what i think.Tech Regular
iTrader: (6)
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 400
From: Park Hills, MO
I suggest you grab 33,34,35,36 for pinions. This covers you for different layouts, different temp days, etc.... The difference between 34 and 35 can be minor or it can be huge. There's a lot of variables.
Remember, one misconception is that 17.5 class is a 'stock or beginner' class. In fact it's a spec class. If you want to go fast, you have to get the most of your gear.
Worry about all of that AFTER you are able to run consistently without wrecking. You can have the fastest car on the track and as soon as you blow one turn, you are in last. That's the nature of spec racing. Consistent beats fast every time.
Things you can do to generate more power, but mind you, everything comes at a price. Power = heat = wear :
-Tune your motor so that it is efficient and produces power without generating heat by adjusting the timing. I had someone with a 'motor checker/dyno' help me here. Every motor is different. For example my Viper motors are happy around 45 deg timing, where others may be better around 30 or 50, depending on the motors.
-Gear up so your car is max speed 3/4 down the straight. That is a starting point... tune up or down accordingly, keeping temps down below 150. The lower the better though.
-use higher C rated batteries, 60C+
-charge at a higher amp rate. 8-10 amps
Remember, one misconception is that 17.5 class is a 'stock or beginner' class. In fact it's a spec class. If you want to go fast, you have to get the most of your gear.
Worry about all of that AFTER you are able to run consistently without wrecking. You can have the fastest car on the track and as soon as you blow one turn, you are in last. That's the nature of spec racing. Consistent beats fast every time.
Things you can do to generate more power, but mind you, everything comes at a price. Power = heat = wear :
-Tune your motor so that it is efficient and produces power without generating heat by adjusting the timing. I had someone with a 'motor checker/dyno' help me here. Every motor is different. For example my Viper motors are happy around 45 deg timing, where others may be better around 30 or 50, depending on the motors.
-Gear up so your car is max speed 3/4 down the straight. That is a starting point... tune up or down accordingly, keeping temps down below 150. The lower the better though.
-use higher C rated batteries, 60C+
-charge at a higher amp rate. 8-10 amps
i also have a 6500 120c fantom that i use in my scte?
i thought you could only charge the batteries per how many mAh your battery is
for example. 5000=5A
Not having it geared correctly from the start can issues as well. Just because it undergeared doesnt mean it wont get hot. Also it can be fairly frustrating to not be able to get through certain sections of the track if your gearing is way off.
i thought in 17.5 class you couldnt have any motor timing or boost? i see what your saying now with gearing, as far as batteries go i have a fantom 50c 5000 i am running in my b4.
i also have a 6500 120c fantom that i use in my scte?
i thought you could only charge the batteries per how many mAh your battery is
for example. 5000=5A
i also have a 6500 120c fantom that i use in my scte?
i thought you could only charge the batteries per how many mAh your battery is
for example. 5000=5A
i thought in 17.5 class you couldnt have any motor timing or boost? i see what your saying now with gearing, as far as batteries go i have a fantom 50c 5000 i am running in my b4.
i also have a 6500 120c fantom that i use in my scte?
i thought you could only charge the batteries per how many mAh your battery is
for example. 5000=5A
i also have a 6500 120c fantom that i use in my scte?
i thought you could only charge the batteries per how many mAh your battery is
for example. 5000=5A
Tech Regular
iTrader: (6)
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 400
From: Park Hills, MO
is there any other spur gears i should get once i get the 69? or do i use all the different pinions with the 69t spur? such as 25-36?
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 8,616
From: New Jersey
i thought in 17.5 class you couldnt have any motor timing or boost? i see what your saying now with gearing, as far as batteries go i have a fantom 50c 5000 i am running in my b4.
i also have a 6500 120c fantom that i use in my scte?
i thought you could only charge the batteries per how many mAh your battery is
for example. 5000=5A
i also have a 6500 120c fantom that i use in my scte?
i thought you could only charge the batteries per how many mAh your battery is
for example. 5000=5A
1. Boost - this is done via the ESC
2. Mechanical - this is done via adjusting the motor's endbell.
MOST tracks run blinky, which means no boost on your ESC (light will blink to signify, hence the name blinky). You should clarify this with the track before you do anything because that changes your gearing and everything else.
50C batteries will be fine, but keep in mind the higher the better for when you want new ones. SMC makes good packs at a good price. I prefer shortys but thats up to you and your car.
Charging rate... most guys do say 5 amps for everything. My own charger only goes to 5 amps. But if you want to get the most power, you need to be able to charge at a higher rate.



