miles514

iTrader: (2)

Thanks for the reply guys! Looking at the rcmart post, the 3racing ssk is 52mm long, they might bind the spool cup?

http://www.rcmart.com/3racing-t301-d...t-p-36126.html

SteveM

iTrader: (165)

I'm using the Spec-R swing shafts, part number SPR001-XR2, on my S1 and no issues so far.

metalnut

iTrader: (36)

For those of you with the aluminum steering rack, how much play do you have? Is it pretty loose if you wiggle the wheels?

I'm trying to figure out how worn out mine is and if buying a new one is the solution. For now I ordered high quality replacement bearings.

tcdrvr2

iTrader: (88)

Mine had a lot of play out of the box, I shimmed the bell cranks and that resolved the problem.

nrtv20

iTrader: (9)

switch to tamiya ball cups, slop is in there not rack

Pit-racer

iTrader: (4)

On stock set-up on the S1 what are you guys using for up-travel?

MC112b

iTrader: (64)

Half way through my R1 build. Drive train not the most free I've ever had. I'm going to put a motor on it now and run it a few hours on the bench. Anything I should be looking for in particular to smooth this thing out?

PitNamedGordie

iTrader: (8)

Did you smooth out the diff/spool spacers? I found those had burrs on them and needed to be lightly sanded.

Pe4atnik

What for you want to do that? If you don't like how the bearings work - just wash the grease out and oil them.

Bappe

the bearings that comes with the car seems to have quite alot of grease in them, they will free up after running the car a couple of packs

tried a couple of things with the car at todays race, have found a really good setup, if i just learn how to save a setup sheet i can post it here..

biggest change i have made that really makes the car better is to change the std topdeck to a cut b-spec topdeck, this gives the car more flex and makes it more planted to the track, and alot easier to drive!
the track was med/high grip carpet, i have marked with red where i cut the topdeck

indoor season is over here now, but for next winter i will try the 2.2mm chassi, and the s1 gassfibre chassi and topdeck, the std 2.5mm chassi is way to stiff, i have narrowed it down to 84mm wide, but the car needs more flex in my opinion

metalnut

iTrader: (36)

I'm using the Tamiya ball cups. Trust me, the slop is all in the rack, I can see it moving around the ball bearings. Either the ball bearings are shot, or the aluminum pieces around them have opened up.

I bought this R1 used and the previous owner did a very nice job of putting some teflon tape between the ball bearings and the aluminum. However, that leads me to think that something is worn, just trying to figure out what.

Bappe

for me the sloop is even, 50% in the ballcups and 50 in the steering, i use tamiya ballcups, and is looking for something else, might be that the kit ballstuds are too small, will look more into this

tiago890

iTrader: (8)

Broke rear hub carrier today, track doesn't carry spec-r parts and I had no spares so had to improvise checked out the tamiya rear hub ( the 417, i think) and luckily it was a direct fit. Going to check to see what other parts are interchangeable just to have some other options Other than the web.

Pit-racer

iTrader: (4)

S1 second voyage, got better as the race day went on in VTA. Rear end still washes out but getting better. Try sway bar, no sway bar, new set of tires, shorten camber links, different diff fluid, up travel, front droop. Getting better now just 2 laps down from race leader when I was down 4. Also hit walls and rubbed sidewalls and no breakage.

metalnut

iTrader: (36)

Had my first race today with the R1. Since I'm a complete n00b, I smacked the wall plenty of times, tangled up with other cars, and did a number of back/side flips. The only damage to the car was a ripped out steering ball stud from the steering block. Since the shorter studs are used there, it just pulled out after an impact. I ended up using the longer (8mm) instead, and I put a little nut on top to keep it from ripping out again.

This is one tough little car