I would add a reasonable set of shocks if you don't already have them Jake...

Not sure what kits you've ordered.

I got foolish on my first one because I didn't really have a handle on what was needed and what is simply bling.

MWB will be more sensible, and won't look like a Vegas street walker.

The Vegas street walker is the M06R.

What you NEED, tires & shocks that hold some oil... Aluminum front knuckles would be nice. Carbon shock towers have more holes, but not a make or break deal...

Can I use that in my sig? That's destined to be a classic.

Classic! I got the m05 s800 and the m06 Alfa Giulia. Thanks for all the input. I am definately getting shocks, bearings, and the aluminum steering rack for both. I never seem to have any luck with ball diffs.

Is anyone going to the TCS race just south of Kenosha next weekend?


By the way, IMO, the best part of Tamiya is this, thank god they have that or I would be doing things all willy-nilly.

MR2 M06R:

Well Ceaser got a abc mini and kicked all our butts with it .

i dont understand y we all buy the same car and he gets something different but to each his own.

ran the stock j johnson motor this weekend and its way faster. Not as fast as an abc car that you can run any gearing in but pretty fast . Had a blast racing mini . Cant wait until next weekend for larger turn out and a chance to beat Ceaser.


thanks

That is not good. Did he geared it to match the gear ratio of the M06?

I don't even know if it can be done for that car.

It can, not sure where he had it. His car was on rails regardless. I had mine geared like a mini, ended up 6th.

Tamiya sets the max motor RPM at 18750 @ 7.2 volts. In effect that is 18750 / 7.2 = 2604kv. That kv is somwhere between a 17.5 (2200kv) and a 13.5 motor (3300kv). Standard 21.5 brushless motors are in the 1800-1900 kv range.

2604 / 1900 = 1.37, a 37% speed advantage with fixed gearing.

Not really a question, just an observation.

Perhaps somebody can make a "roll-out" dyno that measures the max speed of the tire (not RPM) and we can get these things closer in speed for more even racing. Shouldn't be hard to do, a roller on some bearings should do it, add a tach and it's done. If I get bored, I'll make one this week.

Not sure how we make that fair...

I thought this was the "Tamiya M-Chassis class?"

So if my 1/12 scale pancar passes the "dyno" test, I can run it with the Mini's?

If we do a rollout calc we can likely get very close.
If we do a minimum weight it may help, & it may just get faster too.

The Mini's have always been a gear limited class & even the cheater gears offer a few more ratios.

Doesn't ANYONE else have an issue with where this is going?

We're going to spend the effort teching roll out on our "Mini" class? Isn't this contrary to the type and spirit of competiton that we were trying to achieve?

Oh well, there's always one person in every crowd

I'm game...sell those Mini's fella's Caesar just upped the ante...I'm in...no chassis rules?

http://www.abchobbyusa.com/24881.aspx

If we really wanted to make a fun class, we could have a handicapping system. Not sure how it would work. I say lead on the roof.

But when we used to have Quake 3 LAN parties, we'd set-up handicapping. Then the beginner players could compete with the experienced players. As they got better, we'd reduce the handicap. It was funner for everybody as it's not much fun for experts to repeatedly beat up on the newbs.

As in any "lower powered/speed" classes, small power/speed differences are magnified, especially when experts are driving in those classes.