After the Wheel Hexes I would recommend the following spares or changes:

1) Front arms: Large impacts can break them. I use the carbon ones so they break even easier but I like the rigidity. I don't like the RPM arms but many people that bash or are not racing heavily will use then and they are really strong.

2) Ball Cups: I upgraded to the RPM ball cups especially on the rear camber links.

3) Rear Top plate: I upgraded mine with the STRC rear top plate for two reasons. With the stock plastic one the ball stud would eventually wear out the plastic. So the aluminum one was stiffer and stronger. Also the added weight is in the perfect location for rear traction improvements. I have more than 3oz. in my SC10 in the rear of the battery tray.

4) VTS Slipper: If you are running 10.5t motors or more you should get the improved slipper. Just more adjustability for various tracks.

I have been very happy with the durability of this truck after these upgrades. I am hoping that AE will release the needed upgrades into a new Factory Team kit (SC10.2?) that will include the new shocks and so on.

Pretty sure i'm running little to no drag brake at all. I bought the alum. hubs in thinking maybe raising the rear roll center would help? Maybe i'm going the wrong way? I don't have problems traction rolling unless i'm coming into a corner off of a jump which we have two corners like that and i like to turn in to early with the truck in the air which will roll it when it touches down

Funny you would say that, my track use to have an angled jump coming off the straight. I would pitch the truck about 45 degrees in the air and 99% of the time it would land just fine to turn the extra 45 degrees for the upcoming double. I throw the truck all of the place in air and have no problems

Are you sure it's not a balance issue? Left - Right balance is very important to keep straight

+1

i know for me,i have a novak kinetic esc and a small reciever on the other,i could tell it was out of balance,put a 1/2oz next to the reciever and it helped the truck everywhere.

what would be a good place to start with the gearing with a viper 13.5 motor? this would be raced on a smaller track indoors

I didn't even know that this is possible, ofr had anything to do with the balance of the vehicle...cause I have the esc on the same side as the receiver....I am gonna change it over now lololol.....

My buggy and trucks left/right weight percentage is in within 100th of a gram.

The balance should be good everything is in the battery tray. I as well can pitch the truck into a turn mid air and come out fine its when i usually come up the step up straight and turn the wheels mid air into the turn causing the truck to lean to the outside and come down on the outer to wheels. when they grab traction they cause the truck to roll. the truck flies level everywhere else unless i turn the wheels midair I'm sure you've seen your truck or even buggies do this. buggies are more noticable it has to do with the gyro effect of the tires. the mid sweeper off throttle has me stumped tho maybe to stiff of shock oil?

Maybe the update will be called the SC10T???

what is a good gearing for a 6.5 motor in a SC10, i race competetivly and the track is Leisure Hours Raceway. They have some jumps.

where is the sc10.2 Im getting

I've been there on a few of their previous layouts and I ran a 87/19 gearing on my 6.5 and had plenty of power(low and high end). Not sure what might be a good one for what their layout is now.

I put the front end on and you are limited by the holes you can use unless you dremel the post to get the other two top mounts, the outboard one has full support. It is much lower as I had to go up 3 holes on the post for the body to sit properly. I should be racing tonight and will let you know what I think. I placed 3rd in the b main last time I race tweo weeks ago. Got these from Hobby People in one week.