VP-Pro USA is now stocking 1.4mm wire progressive springs for the INTECH BR-6. We have 3 fronts and 3 rears in soft, medium, and hard firmness.

These are accurate - all the same size wire and same length (short front/long rear) so you know which ones are softer/harder - no more guessing which spring is harder/softer by trying to squeeze and compare.
Since they are all the same size diameter wire, the firmness is controlled by the number of coils. Simple.

Less Coils = Harder
More Coils = Softer

The progressive springs feel softer at first, then get slightly stiffer as they are compressed. This allows thinner oil to be used, allows the car to soak up small bumps better, and helps keep the chassis from bottoming out on landings.

They are all black with a colored dot on one end for easy identification. The black gives a clean/neutral look that will match all paint schemes as well.

I do not run shock boots on the front of the car because of that.

ok ran into a few minor issues. First the shock are leaking pretty bad threw the bleeder holes. Another is the steering servo saver, part of it is hitting the carbon fiber steering servo housing. The biggest one so far is the throttle linkage and throttle servo horn. The horn seems to be way to tall and not long enough. The break linkage is on a terrible angle. The issue is the horn is to tall by a guess of a 1/4 inch. And the throttle linkage is also on a bad angle. I have tried to rotate the carb barrel and turning the carb but I will not run it this way, Know it will eventually burr my carb or blow the servo. The throttle servo is a savox 1258. Suggestions would be great. But overall very impressed with everything else

This was my solution to the linkage. As far as the bleeder hole, make sure the bladders are not collapsing into the body. I had this problem with the stock bladders. They seemed a little to big and it was difficult to get the cap around when screwing it on. This left the bladder unsecure. I went to the losi bladders and the cap fits nicely over it.

pics

The first pic is at full throw to the right. You somehow are getting more travel. I dont think you are going to be able to fix the throttle angle. I have a cheap racer edge that lines up perfect to the carb. It fits nice and low onto the servo gear. But like in my previous pic you have to line up the brake with washers.

I would check your install of the bladders. Use a 2mm wrench and seat the bladder in the cap well. Then use a wrench through the cap to make a t-handle to tighten well. The holes are supposed to leak out excess oil. It looks like your car hasn't been ran yet so I may guess it's just excess oil.

The throttle linkage is pretty typical in the fashion you have it set up. Mugen's stock setup is very similar. I run the Dynamite linkage and have for many years. I also space up my top slider nut (not sure what else to call it) with a steel pivot ball (turnbuckle end).

Running the carb at an angle will not hurt anything. In fact, in some cases it is better to run it at an angle. Especially to get it further from the center diff. top plate. The chassis flexes and rams the top plate. This will result in a damaged carb barrel or needle. You do not want a bent needle. You'll wonder why your tune is so finicky and blame it on something else and never find the problem.

I hope this helps. Good luck!

Sorry, to add...

The arm hitting the servo tray issue you are having. This should not occur with all the linkage installed correctly. Make sure your turnbuckles are adjusted properly and equally. Also adjust the primary link so that both your servo arm and the arm on the bellcrank are at 90 degrees. So, they would be parallel to one another.

I'm using the BR5 bladder which was suggsted by Gene. These bladders look more durable than the stock. After 2-days of solid racing, the shocks are money. No leaking and actually some of the best feeling shocks in the business.

The Dynamite pro-tune linkage is a great piece for cars that suffer in this area, however, the VP-Pro aluminum throttle horn will get you better angles. I run the throttle linkage on top of the horn and it is more of a fashioned fit.

I'm running the savox 1267 and didn't have any problems using the stock servo horn or linkage setup.

a xray trottle horn should be ok too

I had some extra losi bladders and like said above they work fine. No more leaking out the bleeder hole. The stock bladder was in the shock body when I took the cap off. And yes I did set the bladder with a 2mm hex. Im just wondering if my savox 1258 is a taller servo and thats why the linkage is messed up with the break linkage, but I have never had a issue in other cars with it before. Greg, I agree. The shocks feel butter smooth. Some of the smoothest I have felt.

That is how the carb ball should be set. The carb does not need to be angled and the linkage should all be straight. Use a longer screw for the brake linkage and use shims to make the rods parallel to the ground for no binding and smooth operation. I use the VP-Pro alum horns.