You da man !thanks again.Next time back on track will be in a couple of weeks.I will be sure to post the the good news then.

hey, was looking to increase my steering on my sc10 4x4 (i know, seems backwards with this car). i looked at the rcshox setup and noticed the 5mm worth of ballstud shims on the front shock tower. did you guys find that it increased steering that much? or was there a different reason to lower your front roll center? thanks?

Lowering your rollcenter takes initial bite away hence the 5mm spacers. easiest adjustment to add steering would be to add some toe out and a little more camber and see if you like it. I typically run 0 toe and 0 camber on the SC10. You could also unlock some rear bite which is probably why you are getting push. The truck may not be rotating into the turns, this is also controlled by the roll center.What dif fluids are you running and are you using the center dif?

hey marcus, thanks for the quick response. running center diff with 7 pins on medium bite, tight track. was using 8mm mod and had almost the right amount of steering, but not quite as much as i liked. went to 3.5 degrees of rear toe without 8mm mod and gained more rear stability on corner entry, but seems like i lost some steering. also running exotek chassis too. running 7k up frt and 5k in rear with std pulley. i'll try the toe and camber settings up frt. good idea

The 8mm mod is really meant for loose conditions, has a tendency to start traction rolling as grip comes up.

After re-reading this I have s question,,,
What do you mean by .5 on the oil weight...
I.e. 50 go up to 55? Or 50 go up to 52.5. I don't understand the
.5

5 , sorry I am used to CST!

thanks for clearing that up, one other question i have is about the pistons poking up so high inide the shock body that they hit the shock caps....is that normal?

i installed limiters to stop the up travel but do i have something wrong? i installed the pistons from the bottom like shown in your video. the bottom shock eyelet is screwed allthe way tight also.

In most cases you shouldnt be anywhere near that limit, use limiters to adjust but i have not had any issues thus far with that.

0
This is what I have without limiters, I don't have 55 for the front so I'm gonna try 60/50 and the yellow/white avid spring combo.....but I am open to any ideas from on lookers....thanks

Just install limiters between the shock eyelet and bottom of the body until the top of the piston is about 1mm from being flush. The pistons only limits travel by less than 2mm. I do this on all of my cars regardless , just to keep from damaging the outdrives.

Just tried the center diff at our indoor track last night and WOW....this thing is sooooo radical!!! I can't get the back to break loose without trying real hard, this thing is like a QUATTRO for an SC-10. I complemented it with the Exotech metal chassis (for the LOSIs) and TenShock 5200Kv 550 can 4-pole motor (to keep things moving), and the truck is really impressive. Marcus, thank you for putting your time and energy into this, it is a pretty ingenious solution. I already recommended this to more of my friends and will to anyone with an SC10 4WD-this mod is a no-brainer!!! I wish the truck came like this out of the box. Thank you for a Great Product.

Just two questions for you:
- how can I get my hands on the spur in 60 T? With the 550 can motor it's difficult to slide the motor far enough back to allow me go up on the pinion gear without Dremeling out a bit of the chassis under the motor.

- should I glue or pin the slipper hub and the diff rings together? The only pictures of the assembly I found here show the diff ring and slipper hub pinned together. Is slipping between these a concern?

No pins or glue, that's a really old pic.

Also pay attention to the size of the grooves in the thrust washer. Deep and shallow.

Line that up with the thrust bearing as the balls stick out a little more on one side than the other. Side that sticks out more goes in the deeper grooved thrust washer.

Your welcome and glad you like it!!

when you order an extra spur there is an option for 60 or 62t.

washer slippng is not an issue.

I don't think there is any difference in the grooves... ball cage can go either way. The important thing is that one thrust washer has a smaller hole I.D. and should go on first.