You need to read past the first post. Waaay past the first post. Easier yet, just pick out everything fredswain posts and just read that.

I know, but there's 80 pages here, and the 2 statements I pointed out are straight up contradictory, so there should be an easy answer I think - either Hudy is wrong, or Hudy is right.

I just found this : http://www.rctech.net/forum/10189190-post3.html

So that seems to solve it. All other explanations of camber link position I've found also contradicted the Hudy setup book, I just couldn't imagine Hudy not correcting a mistake that big in their setup book.

You should be able to do a search contained in this thread that will bring up all of Freds posts. That way you don't have to speed read all 80+ pages.

I went through something similar a while back with crawlers and people trying to assimilate knowledge and technical diagrams of full size vehicles into 1:10 scale sizes. It didn't work and was very confusing. The principals are the same, the applications are different.

My best explanation would be that onroad and offroad vehicles are two different animals that like things set in a different ways. Its best to read up on information that pertains to your specific type of vehicle.

I've read most of this thread before.
I don't need to go over it again just because Hudy is the only one claiming the exact opposite, I was just looking for confirmation that Hudy is wrong. I've found this confirmation in other threads now.

So have I. I was just pointing out how to find the informative bits if you were not sure how to do it yourself.

I wouldn't say that Hudy is wrong, its just a different application and different circumstances.

Sorry to keep pestering you but what are the different application and circumstances according to you ?
I see 2 contradicting statements on offroad setup, I don't see what's different aside from the claims ?

'cause Hudy is based in Europe and we are in North America, duh!

You raise the link on the tower "lowering the roll center" and the car will roll more. Lower the link "raising the roll center" and it will resist rolling. I made sure mine had an even amount of roll front to back. Less roll in the back will oversteer more, less roll in the front will understeer more.

Strait from Hudy
A lower roll center will generally produce more grip
due to the chassis rolling, and the outer wheel “digging in” more

Makes sense to me?? Much harder to adjust on a real car also.
What gets cloudy in the hudy pdf is where it says raise the roll center on low traction tracks.

Yup. They are backwards. There is a website online that talks about roll centers on real cars that is completely backwards. I think it was an article by a magazine. The Hudy guide seems to draw heavily from it.

Cheers, now at least I know I'm not *completely* crazy

Better yet,forget there's a Hudy guide follow this thread instead.

Watch this video and decide for yourself which setting you would want in what conditions

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tWdRQaz_Xq8

I'm having trouble with my RB5 oversteering. The rear end just wants to violently break loose around tighter corners. That's really the only issue I'm having with it right now. Steering is good throughout the turn and forward traction is great. Here's how it's set up right now...

Front shocks more upright (out on the tower)
Rear shocks more inclined (in on the tower)
Front camber link long, higher on the tower
Rear camber link long, higher on the tower
Front camber 1 degree
Rear camber 2 degrees

The track I'm running on is a pretty smooth clay indoor track, but traction is lacking some days, especially after they water the track. I would classify the track as medium traction bordering on slippery. After reading the thread I'm thinking I should probably raise my roll center in the rear. That means taking my spacers out and LOWERING the link on the tower. That should make the rear end a bit more predictable and keep it from breaking loose so violently. It's good up to a point, but after that it rotates way too quickly.

Am I thinking correctly here? If I'm wrong please correct me and point out why.

I think your thought process is correct. Lowering the inside rear camber link will free up the rear end on corner entry but as the chassis starts to roll over it will make good traction on middle and exit of the corner. This is where you will want to make sure you have good spring balance and the correct oil in the shocks because your shocks will be responsible for a lot more of the cornering load at that point. Camber is also critical. You'll want to start making minute adjustments to camber as well. One degree increments probably won't cut it.

He said his car was oversteering. That means he has more traction in the front compared to the rear. Your telling him to lower his camberlink on the rear tower, which would further reduce roll and further reduce his traction?

Guy with the problem, if your only going to tune with your camber links, leave your rear camber links where they are. They are already in the most roll/traction position. Your only course of action is to reduce the roll/traction on the front end of the car by lowering the camber link on the front tower.

Higher on the tower is more roll, lower on the tower is less roll. More roll= more weight transfer = more traction. Less roll= less traction. Also, over rotation can be helped by increasing your rear toe, but that's another thread.

Try it and post your results please.