INTECH RACING - BR-6 BUGGY!!!
01-14-2013 | 05:48 PM
#331
Was your tank leaking fuel or air leak? I had the same problem the first few tanks (air bubbles in the line) and kept flaming out. Then I removed the fuel filter and it went away.
If you have an air leak, don't use the fuel filter as I believe they cause air leaks. The tank on both of my cars do not leak a drop of fuel.
If you have an air leak, don't use the fuel filter as I believe they cause air leaks. The tank on both of my cars do not leak a drop of fuel.
01-15-2013 | 06:42 AM
#334
01-15-2013 | 08:03 AM
#337
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 3,289
From: The Aloha state
Now lets see some pics of it on the Intech!
01-16-2013 | 04:47 PM
#340
Tech Master
iTrader: (10)
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 1,410
From: Central Florida
Since people keep asking about build tips, here is what I did:
1. I did the Adam Drake shock cap mod (drill hole 1.5mm hole in cap and put a piece of foam behind the bladder)
2. I reamed the front arm outer hinge pin hole with a #1 bit so the metal inserts spin freely.
3. Put one 8mm thin shim on the pinion gear before installing in the bulkhead and 1 shim on the diff on the cup side to shim side to side movement. It is a tight fit so be careful not to bend the thin shim. Make sure the pinion gear/center CVD coupler has no play in it. Grease the ring/pinion gears with black grease real good.
4. Unscrew the shock ends 1 turn for more down travel.
5. You can also install 1 thin shim on the ackerman plate bushings to eliminate play in the rack.
6. Use lock tight and don't over tighten the top plate servo saver post screws to prevent binding in the steering.
7. Use the upper holes on the rear tower and lower holes on the front tower and inside holes on the arms for best up/down travel.
8. Dremel a half moon on the front steering blocks where they are marked L and R for more steering throw.
9. Seal all the carbon fiber edges with CA glue
10. Use washers on all the shock tower screws.
11. Use the nut on the bottom of the ackerman plate and a washer on top (makes it look cleaner)
12. Use a 15T clutch bell for smaller tracks
13. Get the right size clutch bell bearings for extras. The stock 16t uses 5x12mm and the 15t VP-Pro bell uses 5x11mm bearings.
14. Start with the 1.3mm shock pistons as they provide the best pack imo.
15. Run full fornt droop and limit the rear so it has the same amount of down travel. (look at it from the side and set so the front and rear tires leave the ground at the same time when lifting level)
16. Use lower camber link locations on towers for smoothest suspension and most traction.
17. Shim the rear arms all the way back for longer wheel base. Shim front arms in the center
18. Make all 3 steering rods the correct length to keep the servo saver from hitting the radio tray. Left and right should be even and the servo rod should be set so the servo arm is straight.
19. Run the carb ball end forward
20. Do not use the stock throttle rod ball end and use alum servo arms. The stock ball end comes loose and plastic servo arms strip out.
21. The shock cap bushings have play in them. To fix this use fuel tuning or get the hard anodized alum option upper shock mounts.
22. Use the camber rod captured ball ends for the steering rods and use the steering ball ends for the camber links. This frees up the steering and will keep the rod ends from popping off in a crash which would end your race.
As you can see I am a perfectionist (or try to be
), and these are the little tips and tricks that I noticed and did when I built my 2 kits, one all stock and one with all the light weight options.
1. I did the Adam Drake shock cap mod (drill hole 1.5mm hole in cap and put a piece of foam behind the bladder)
2. I reamed the front arm outer hinge pin hole with a #1 bit so the metal inserts spin freely.
3. Put one 8mm thin shim on the pinion gear before installing in the bulkhead and 1 shim on the diff on the cup side to shim side to side movement. It is a tight fit so be careful not to bend the thin shim. Make sure the pinion gear/center CVD coupler has no play in it. Grease the ring/pinion gears with black grease real good.
4. Unscrew the shock ends 1 turn for more down travel.
5. You can also install 1 thin shim on the ackerman plate bushings to eliminate play in the rack.
6. Use lock tight and don't over tighten the top plate servo saver post screws to prevent binding in the steering.
7. Use the upper holes on the rear tower and lower holes on the front tower and inside holes on the arms for best up/down travel.
8. Dremel a half moon on the front steering blocks where they are marked L and R for more steering throw.
9. Seal all the carbon fiber edges with CA glue
10. Use washers on all the shock tower screws.
11. Use the nut on the bottom of the ackerman plate and a washer on top (makes it look cleaner)
12. Use a 15T clutch bell for smaller tracks
13. Get the right size clutch bell bearings for extras. The stock 16t uses 5x12mm and the 15t VP-Pro bell uses 5x11mm bearings.
14. Start with the 1.3mm shock pistons as they provide the best pack imo.
15. Run full fornt droop and limit the rear so it has the same amount of down travel. (look at it from the side and set so the front and rear tires leave the ground at the same time when lifting level)
16. Use lower camber link locations on towers for smoothest suspension and most traction.
17. Shim the rear arms all the way back for longer wheel base. Shim front arms in the center
18. Make all 3 steering rods the correct length to keep the servo saver from hitting the radio tray. Left and right should be even and the servo rod should be set so the servo arm is straight.
19. Run the carb ball end forward
20. Do not use the stock throttle rod ball end and use alum servo arms. The stock ball end comes loose and plastic servo arms strip out.
21. The shock cap bushings have play in them. To fix this use fuel tuning or get the hard anodized alum option upper shock mounts.
22. Use the camber rod captured ball ends for the steering rods and use the steering ball ends for the camber links. This frees up the steering and will keep the rod ends from popping off in a crash which would end your race.
As you can see I am a perfectionist (or try to be
), and these are the little tips and tricks that I noticed and did when I built my 2 kits, one all stock and one with all the light weight options.
01-16-2013 | 05:00 PM
#341
I drilled mine from the non threaded side and taped it all the way through
01-16-2013 | 05:15 PM
#342
Tech Elite
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 2,005
From: Florida
On my other buggy I used different brand ball ends that are nitrate coated and never wear out, but they were discontinued a long time ago and are not available any more. I like them better also because the screw does go all the way through. I prefer that and use a nut on the end. But the stock black ones work fine if you use some thread lock.
01-17-2013 | 12:44 AM
#343
Tech Initiate
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 29
i've made a couple off little changes to the car. first i changed the shock bladers to the mugen ones and this really has helped the cars responce! and i also changed the fuel tank, not because of any issues just measured it and found it was a little too small in cc but was still getting 11min 40 sec out off a tank.
01-17-2013 | 05:49 AM
#344
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 3,289
From: The Aloha state
i've made a couple off little changes to the car. first i changed the shock bladers to the mugen ones and this really has helped the cars responce! and i also changed the fuel tank, not because of any issues just measured it and found it was a little too small in cc but was still getting 11min 40 sec out off a tank.
Also what tank did you use to replace it with?
01-17-2013 | 10:38 AM
#345
Tech Elite
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 2,005
From: Florida
I prefer the BR-5 convex bladders because you do not have to use foam behind them. We will have them in stock next week.