I saw on a Schumacher US drivers page they are using B4 caster blocks with B4 hex front spindles. to modify the caster blocks, they will sleeve the hinge pin hole with brass tubing. I was thinking this "sleeve" could be used for the B4 rear aluminum hubs. ream out the hinge pin hole and insert a sleeve with the internal diameter to match the hinge pin (1/8" ?) this could address the slop issue.

While, I am sure resleeving would work, I do feel that will be a more difficult solution. Drilling and taping 1-2 holes is pretty easy and cheap. Finding the right size sleeve and material might be harder. But if you have the information on where to get the parts and what size bits are required, I will be more than happy to post the information.

I don't know how many others, but at my track, I won both the mod buggy A and mod stadium truck A this week and I run B44 A hubs with shaved brace. Zero washers on my buggy, and -1 washers on my truck (-1 meaning I run one LESS than a shaved brace because I run dubro HD ends that lower it even more).

Seriously. I can't emphasize how much our track favors a high rear roll center at the moment. We have banked sweepers for all high speed corners so we can crank that RC up there to get corner exit speed while keeping held in the banks to keep the rear end hooked. The in fiend is mainly turn and punch, so it helps there too. I'll probably have to go back to a lower RC when the track layout changes.

Exactly what i was thinking. Maybe try that and see if it is sill lound. Maybe try now bearings if they look shot. I f your slipper and diff are set wrong it can "bark" at you. What kind of noise is it? Those are just some suggestions that came to my mind W/ out any additinal info.

Was adding stuff to my cart and I notice the sway bar kit. Has anyone used it and is it of much benefit?

was a popular item for the sc10 on carpet. I am thinking of putting it on to give it a go for the next jam session.

They are rarely used unless you run carpet. We used to use them on blue groove many years ago, but I dont even think they are used for that anymore.

wildcat, nice job

I'm probably just overlooking it somewhere but I don't see anywhere on the AE setup sheets what rear toe block pivot is used or is it always the same.

99% of the time is is 3 degrees unless otherwise stated.

Im curious as to why they go through all that work, I have a feeling their hing pin may be secured to the arm like I have seen in some 1/8 buggies, as in the hing pin doesnt float in the arm and hub, just hub. So that might be why they go through the trouble. i think the grub screw would be the easiest fix....Remember KISS (keep is simple stupid) Truth be told I have wished for some sort of easily replaceable insert like they do as well but I will do the grub screw method when I have too much slop, my kit it fairly new still.

yeah I asked this previously too, like WC said, 99.9% of the time its the 3deg block and what they list, such as 2deg or 1deg is the shim they used with the 3deg block. The kit setup is 3deg block with 2deg shim, setup sheets will just say 2deg in that scenario.

Thanks for the replys

Before you freak out on me, I searched what I am about to ask and I didn't find anything. It's probably there, but I didn't find it. Sorry.

I'm going to go ahead with the big bore spring conversion. I see people have been using the avid spring cups. Will the stock Associated 12mm spring cups work with the regular non-big bore shocks? They're like $15 cheaper.

Yes as well as tlr 22 spring cups

Personally I prefer the plastic AE ones just for weight savings and they are plenty strong. The aluminum is just cosmetic. I will say that keep in mind the avid collars slide over the original collar, I was disappointed when I got mine as I didn't realize that's what they meant by adapter. Get the ghea ones if you want a one piece design. Next a main order I place Im getting ghea ones.