In my opinion If you guys want more track time than open practice on Saturday with Quals and Mains on Sunday would provide the best possible outcome. It is not really much of a snowbirds warm up if you do not run the Snowbirds layout and run the race counter clock-wise. It is more of a race that happens before snowbirds than anything else. I plan to be at the track both Saturday and Sunday regardless...but feel like Maximum track time would be provided in the race was structured as listed above.

This weekend coming up would also be a great time for club elections since there will be so many club members at the track.

Remember to get in your club dues in or you cannot vote.

Yeah even with mostly locals only, the 2 day race is going to be great for getting some track time and working on stuff. I think I'll have the basics together for my touring car by then and I am going to be trying out some new things on the 1/12th.

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And now for something completely different: Look at what some of the guys in WI are doing. Mounting very small/light POV recorders to their RC bodies and making some pretty fun videos. The off road videos they are taking are impossible to watch, but the on road is pretty fun especially on the F1 cars.

Using this camera:
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dProduct=17200
Only 29gm.


They made this video of F1: (ignore the initial rick roll clip, and silly sounds... fast forward 60 seconds in or so)

+ YouTube Video

Pretty cool to see the suspensions movement. I am real interested in mounting one of these cameras under a 1/12th body to see the pod/front arm movements as the car handles to get an idea of really how much movement and how dynamic the pod is on the cars.

I'm still down for a 2 day this weekend. I'm usually there on Sat\Sun anyway.

Brent and Chris could add 10 of those cameras to their VTA car and still be under weight

I'd like to know what time we plan to start racing each of the two days (or one, if that's how it goes).

That camera is good. I may pick one up even though I'm trying to boycott HK. I think it's the same camera I used in South Dakota in my buggy.

Yeah I just ordered one of those cameras. If nothing else it should be awesome for VTA first laps and mod-12th blowouts.

I have one coming too, should make for some fun videos.

the original plan was for a 2 day. lets stay with it. lets get racing started by 11 on sat, and look to see what we have for entries. plan on 3 quals with possibly longer breaks depending on time, and shoot for racing to start sunday with a qual at 9, then trip a's. we can adjust the start time for sunday on saturday if need be on sat. i think it should be fun, and give us those of us that run multiple classes time to really prep our cars.

i think this is going to be fun.

If you follow the rules on the VTA site you should be good: http://www.usvintagetransam.com/rules/index.html

With that said, currently there is a very loose interpretation or support of those rules or the ROAR ones at our track. That D3.5 25.5 will work fine, but wont be legal for VTA series races. Only the Novak SS and Ballistic motors are. As we saw yesterday, motor doesn't mean much in this series... and to some extent gearing doesn't either... I moved 4 teeth yesterday and the car felt exactly the same, motor just got less hot.

I would build up your car as close as you can to the VTA rules (without spending lots of money) and go from there. Higher cap batteries wont matter much, latest high end chassis doesn't matter at all, drivers aren't something people are going to enforce, and numbers on bodies are probably not going to be a big concern (at our track only). If you want to run at a big VTA race, then you need to have all of those and follow the rules closely.

Buy lead... it will be hard to bring any normal chassis up to 1600gm... so you will need quite a bit of weight. I had to add 200+gm to my chassis to be legal.

Weight (ahhem....), Wheels, Tires, Bodies, and motor spec is the big things to make sure you hit (and not everyone at our track even get that far).


They aren't, they are lazy and slow, but have lots of grip and are consistent. Just need to find a setup that is easy to drive, doesn't roll over too much, and steers into the corner the way you want.

If you want to make weight I would highly recommend adding a driver figure. The amount of lead you have to add to the chassis is ridiculous; whoever made the VTA rules is a chump and must sell aluminum suspension arms.

I would only worry about the motor you use if you are planning on running legit VTA at a big race. I personally have the D3 25.5, am underweight by 70g, and have male genitalia painted on the back of my car, none of which are VTA legal.

I believe we all agreed to run ROAR VTA rules not USVTA.

Here's the differences between these 2 sets of rules.

ROAR VTA
-Allows ANY manufacture of 25.5 motor
-Allows any 2S Lipo capacity
The rules currently posted on ROAR's website are way off. I called Ryan to get an update as he attend ROAR Carpet Nats last year. ROAR basiclly uses USVTA rules minus the to items above.

USVTA
-Motor limited to Novak SS or Ballistic
-5000Mah 2S capacity limit

If your working on putting a VTA car together and want to attend a USVTA event buy a battery and motor to meet these rules.

If your only going to run VTA at 5280 or ePlex follow the ROAR rules which is what we're following.

FYI, ROAR DOES REQUIRE a number on both side doors, hood, and trunk of the car. So those that haven't done this plan on it.

Sweet I can take some of that god damn weight off my VTA car I was riding at VTA spec.

Sorry Joe, keep the weight in your car. I spoke with Ryan after my post. I tired to find rules on the ROAR website but there are none which are currently being used. I updated my post based off what Ryan had to run at Nats last year.

Thankfully, keeping weight on is something I've never struggled with onward with the portly, non-aero dynamic, bricks