INTECH RACING - BR-6 BUGGY!!!
01-06-2013 | 12:10 PM
#229
Tech Elite
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 2,005
From: Florida
Optional sway bars and purple shock springs are all that is really needed.
There are also the light weight axles, cvd couplers, outdrives, and shock mounts but not needed. And alum caster blocks and chassis braces, but again those are not needed (I am not using them).
It comes with 1.3, 1.4, and 1.5 6 hole pistons.
There are also the light weight axles, cvd couplers, outdrives, and shock mounts but not needed. And alum caster blocks and chassis braces, but again those are not needed (I am not using them).
It comes with 1.3, 1.4, and 1.5 6 hole pistons.
01-06-2013 | 04:07 PM
#231
Optional sway bars and purple shock springs are all that is really needed.
There are also the light weight axles, cvd couplers, outdrives, and shock mounts but not needed. And alum caster blocks and chassis braces, but again those are not needed (I am not using them).
It comes with 1.3, 1.4, and 1.5 6 hole pistons.
There are also the light weight axles, cvd couplers, outdrives, and shock mounts but not needed. And alum caster blocks and chassis braces, but again those are not needed (I am not using them).
It comes with 1.3, 1.4, and 1.5 6 hole pistons.
01-06-2013 | 04:34 PM
#234
Tech Elite
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 2,005
From: Florida
I have never owned the XB9 but I have driven one and I was on the Xray team for 2 years. Yes it drives like the XB9 from the limited amount I drove one, but mine had more steering and rear traction (might have just been the setup). I did notice that the INTECH arms don't warp as fast though because the webbing is filled in and not hollow.
01-06-2013 | 05:02 PM
#235
Tech Regular
iTrader: (15)
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 363
From: West Kentucky
I have never owned the XB9 but I have driven one and I was on the Xray team for 2 years. Yes it drives like the XB9 from the limited amount I drove one, but mine had more steering and rear traction (might have just been the setup). I did notice that the INTECH arms don't warp as fast though because the webbing is filled in and not hollow.
01-06-2013 | 07:02 PM
#236
Tech Elite
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 2,005
From: Florida
Since people keep asking about build tips, here is what I did:
1. I did the Adam Drake shock cap mod (drill hole 1.5mm hole in cap and put a piece of foam behind the bladder)
2. I reamed the front arm outer hinge pin hole with a #1 bit so the metal inserts spin freely.
3. Put one 8mm thin shim on the pinion gear before installing in the bulkhead and 1 shim on the diff on the cup side to shim side to side movement. It is a tight fit so be careful not to bend the thin shim. Make sure the pinion gear/center CVD coupler has no play in it. Grease the ring/pinion gears with black grease real good.
4. Unscrew the shock ends 1 turn for more down travel.
5. You can also install 1 thin shim on the ackerman plate bushings to eliminate play in the rack.
6. Use lock tight and don't over tighten the top plate servo saver post screws to prevent binding in the steering.
7. Use the upper holes on the rear tower and lower holes on the front tower and inside holes on the arms for best up/down travel.
8. Dremel a half moon on the front steering blocks where they are marked L and R for more steering throw.
9. Seal all the carbon fiber edges with CA glue
10. Use washers on all the shock tower screws.
11. Use the nut on the bottom of the ackerman plate and a washer on top (makes it look cleaner)
12. Use a 15T clutch bell for smaller tracks
13. Get the right size clutch bell bearings for extras. The stock 16t uses 5x12mm and the 15t VP-Pro bell uses 5x11mm bearings.
14. Start with the 1.3mm shock pistons as they provide the best pack imo.
15. Run full fornt droop and limit the rear so it has the same amount of down travel. (look at it from the side and set so the front and rear tires leave the ground at the same time when lifting level)
16. Use lower camber link locations on towers for smoothest suspension and most traction.
17. Shim the rear arms all the way back for longer wheel base. Shim front arms in the center
18. Make all 3 steering rods the correct length to keep the servo saver from hitting the radio tray. Left and right should be even and the servo rod should be set so the servo arm is straight.
19. Run the carb ball end forward
20. Do not use the stock throttle rod ball end and use alum servo arms. The stock ball end comes loose and plastic servo arms strip out.
21. The shock cap bushings have play in them. To fix this use fuel tuning or get the hard anodized alum option upper shock mounts.
22. Use the camber rod captured ball ends for the steering rods and use the steering ball ends for the camber links. This frees up the steering and will keep the rod ends from popping off in a crash which would end your race.
As you can see I am a perfectionist (or try to be
), and these are the little tips and tricks that I noticed and did when I built my 2 kits, one all stock and one with all the light weight options.
1. I did the Adam Drake shock cap mod (drill hole 1.5mm hole in cap and put a piece of foam behind the bladder)
2. I reamed the front arm outer hinge pin hole with a #1 bit so the metal inserts spin freely.
3. Put one 8mm thin shim on the pinion gear before installing in the bulkhead and 1 shim on the diff on the cup side to shim side to side movement. It is a tight fit so be careful not to bend the thin shim. Make sure the pinion gear/center CVD coupler has no play in it. Grease the ring/pinion gears with black grease real good.
4. Unscrew the shock ends 1 turn for more down travel.
5. You can also install 1 thin shim on the ackerman plate bushings to eliminate play in the rack.
6. Use lock tight and don't over tighten the top plate servo saver post screws to prevent binding in the steering.
7. Use the upper holes on the rear tower and lower holes on the front tower and inside holes on the arms for best up/down travel.
8. Dremel a half moon on the front steering blocks where they are marked L and R for more steering throw.
9. Seal all the carbon fiber edges with CA glue
10. Use washers on all the shock tower screws.
11. Use the nut on the bottom of the ackerman plate and a washer on top (makes it look cleaner)
12. Use a 15T clutch bell for smaller tracks
13. Get the right size clutch bell bearings for extras. The stock 16t uses 5x12mm and the 15t VP-Pro bell uses 5x11mm bearings.
14. Start with the 1.3mm shock pistons as they provide the best pack imo.
15. Run full fornt droop and limit the rear so it has the same amount of down travel. (look at it from the side and set so the front and rear tires leave the ground at the same time when lifting level)
16. Use lower camber link locations on towers for smoothest suspension and most traction.
17. Shim the rear arms all the way back for longer wheel base. Shim front arms in the center
18. Make all 3 steering rods the correct length to keep the servo saver from hitting the radio tray. Left and right should be even and the servo rod should be set so the servo arm is straight.
19. Run the carb ball end forward
20. Do not use the stock throttle rod ball end and use alum servo arms. The stock ball end comes loose and plastic servo arms strip out.
21. The shock cap bushings have play in them. To fix this use fuel tuning or get the hard anodized alum option upper shock mounts.
22. Use the camber rod captured ball ends for the steering rods and use the steering ball ends for the camber links. This frees up the steering and will keep the rod ends from popping off in a crash which would end your race.
As you can see I am a perfectionist (or try to be
), and these are the little tips and tricks that I noticed and did when I built my 2 kits, one all stock and one with all the light weight options.
01-06-2013 | 07:15 PM
#238
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 2,274
From: North Carolina
Since people keep asking about build tips, here is what I did:
1. I did the Adam Drake shock cap mod (drill hole 1.5mm hole in cap and put a piece of foam behind the bladder)
2. I reamed the front arm outer hinge pin hole with a #1 bit so the metal inserts spin freely.
3. Put one 8mm thin shim on the pinion gear before installing in the bulkhead and 1 shim on the diff on the cup side to shim side to side movement. It is a tight fit so be careful not to bend the thin shim. Make sure the pinion gear/center CVD coupler has no play in it. Grease the ring/pinion gears with black grease real good.
4. Unscrew the shock ends 1 turn for more down travel.
5. You can also install 1 thin shim on the ackerman plate bushings to eliminate play in the rack.
6. Use lock tight and don't over tighten the top plate servo saver post screws to prevent binding in the steering.
7. Use the upper holes on the rear tower and lower holes on the front tower and inside holes on the arms for best up/down travel.
8. Dremel a half moon on the front steering blocks where they are marked L and R for more steering throw.
9. Seal all the carbon fiber edges with CA glue
10. Use washers on all the shock tower screws.
11. Use the nut on the bottom of the ackerman plate and a washer on top (makes it look cleaner)
12. Use a 15T clutch bell for smaller tracks
13. Get the right size clutch bell bearings for extras. The stock 16t uses 5x12mm and the 15t VP-Pro bell uses 5x11mm bearings.
14. Start with the 1.3mm shock pistons as they provide the best pack imo.
15. Run full fornt droop and limit the rear so it has the same amount of down travel. (look at it from the side and set so the front and rear tires leave the ground at the same time when lifting level)
16. Use lower camber link locations on towers for smoothest suspension and most traction.
17. Shim the rear arms all the way back for longer wheel base. Shim front arms in the center
18. Make all 3 steering rods the correct length to keep the servo saver from hitting the radio tray. Left and right should be even and the servo rod should be set so the servo arm is straight.
19. Run the carb ball end forward
20. Do not use the stock throttle rod ball end and use alum servo arms. The stock ball end comes loose and plastic servo arms strip out.
21. The shock cap bushings have play in them. To fix this use fuel tuning or get the hard anodized alum option upper shock mounts.
22. Use the camber rod captured ball ends for the steering rods and use the steering ball ends for the camber links. This frees up the steering and will keep the rod ends from popping off in a crash which would end your race.
As you can see I am a perfectionist (or try to be), and these are the little tips and tricks that I noticed and did when I built my 2 kits, one all stock and one with all the light weight options.
1. I did the Adam Drake shock cap mod (drill hole 1.5mm hole in cap and put a piece of foam behind the bladder)
2. I reamed the front arm outer hinge pin hole with a #1 bit so the metal inserts spin freely.
3. Put one 8mm thin shim on the pinion gear before installing in the bulkhead and 1 shim on the diff on the cup side to shim side to side movement. It is a tight fit so be careful not to bend the thin shim. Make sure the pinion gear/center CVD coupler has no play in it. Grease the ring/pinion gears with black grease real good.
4. Unscrew the shock ends 1 turn for more down travel.
5. You can also install 1 thin shim on the ackerman plate bushings to eliminate play in the rack.
6. Use lock tight and don't over tighten the top plate servo saver post screws to prevent binding in the steering.
7. Use the upper holes on the rear tower and lower holes on the front tower and inside holes on the arms for best up/down travel.
8. Dremel a half moon on the front steering blocks where they are marked L and R for more steering throw.
9. Seal all the carbon fiber edges with CA glue
10. Use washers on all the shock tower screws.
11. Use the nut on the bottom of the ackerman plate and a washer on top (makes it look cleaner)
12. Use a 15T clutch bell for smaller tracks
13. Get the right size clutch bell bearings for extras. The stock 16t uses 5x12mm and the 15t VP-Pro bell uses 5x11mm bearings.
14. Start with the 1.3mm shock pistons as they provide the best pack imo.
15. Run full fornt droop and limit the rear so it has the same amount of down travel. (look at it from the side and set so the front and rear tires leave the ground at the same time when lifting level)
16. Use lower camber link locations on towers for smoothest suspension and most traction.
17. Shim the rear arms all the way back for longer wheel base. Shim front arms in the center
18. Make all 3 steering rods the correct length to keep the servo saver from hitting the radio tray. Left and right should be even and the servo rod should be set so the servo arm is straight.
19. Run the carb ball end forward
20. Do not use the stock throttle rod ball end and use alum servo arms. The stock ball end comes loose and plastic servo arms strip out.
21. The shock cap bushings have play in them. To fix this use fuel tuning or get the hard anodized alum option upper shock mounts.
22. Use the camber rod captured ball ends for the steering rods and use the steering ball ends for the camber links. This frees up the steering and will keep the rod ends from popping off in a crash which would end your race.
As you can see I am a perfectionist (or try to be
), and these are the little tips and tricks that I noticed and did when I built my 2 kits, one all stock and one with all the light weight options.
01-07-2013 | 04:23 AM
#240
Tech Elite
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 2,005
From: Florida
My setup from the sideshow race is now posted:
http://www.vpprousa.com/components/c...%20%282%29.pdf
http://www.vpprousa.com/components/c...%20%282%29.pdf