So I am getting a lot of chassis rub when running mod 12th. This is with 10k tube lube running a whole host of different side springs.

Is this something that is fairly common with mod 12th on a fairly technical track, or should I try addressing it with thicker tube lube?

I have only ran mod on very flowing layouts before with very few abrupt direction changes and chicanes, so I am in unfamiliar territory with our current layout. I am also concerned about making the car too edgy and burning through rear traction if I use thicker tube lube, since our carpet is medium traction at best with our normal practice and racing.

Car is a CEFX, currently using 10k tube lube, SM linear side springs just touching. Any ideas?

Edit: Wrong thread.

A stiffer center shock spring will do a better job of holding the momentun change, while stiffer springs usually do mean more steering, when my car was dragging and diffing out it gave me a much better overall traction. If the change of center spring loosens the back end too much, try increasing the angle of the center shock with the old spring to make it more progressive.

I should have been more specific. I am not actually getting any chassis rub on the middle of the chassis. Most of the chassis rub is on the protrusions where the front pivot balls are mounted for the sidelinks, as well as on the back corners of the main chassis plate (by where the crossbrace posts are mounted). This is why most of my focus has been on tube lube and side springs.

With that said, do you think a center spring change could help with chassis rub on the side edges as well? I don't think I am getting any rub from the car squatting or lifting during momentum changes; it just seems to have a lot of roll.

Lloyd, I figured you meant the sides where the pivots are, and probably dragging the side of the pod at the link mounting point as well. In order for either point to drag, the center spring has to compress a long way as the front roll is quite stiff. I think a stiffer center spring will help you out if you don't want to go to heavier side fluid and changing side springs didn't help.

Ok great, that makes sense to me. I spent most of my time yesterday trying out different tires and side springs, so this weekend I can try out a stiffer center spring to see what happens.

I have also found that in situations where changing side springs doesn't result in any changes to handling, lap times, roll, etc, it typically will mean that my tube lube isn't the right thickness. As such, I might try pulling off one of the tubes just to see what the car does. Josh typically says that 15k is the most you can run in the tubes with mod before worrying about losing the rear end, so I have a little bit of wiggle room if I need to go stiffer (although I am no Josh, so I am not even sure if 15k will work for me). Thanks!

I'm driving a link car with an old school front end, and am chasing more steering at the exits of corners. Corner entry steering is quite sharp, and the mid-corner is ok. What change can I make that will target steering at the corner exit? Should I investigate ackerman or bump-steer changes?

I have an FTM FTR 12, that I purchased a few years back but never fully built, kids etc.. I sold my T2 so now I need to build this to have something to play with.

I'm looking to get out a few times this year and wanted to finish off the car <battery, esc, motor>.

I will run stock class and am partial to novak. What is the roar legal novak esc and motor that will fit this car?

Also the car has the tbar running through the middle, what kind of battery fits the car now that everything is lipo?

please only mention roar approved.

There used to be a saddle pack - look back through the thread. I think they said they would make a 1 off if you needed it. But that or run Nimh cells is your only choice. I think the saddle was ROAR when it was made.

James

It was the Speedzone 5200mAh 1S Saddle (SZ5200PROSD1S). A Speedzone rep was asking to see if there was interest from enough people to get it re-released not so long ago.

Novak dedicated 1S ESCs that are on the ROAR Approved no timing list are:

NOV1731 Novak Havoc 1 Cell
NOV1741 Kinetic 1S Racing Brushless ESC
NOV1743 OVAL SPEC 1S Brushless ESC

Assuming you are in the US, and are therefore interested in either 13.5 blinky or 17.5 blinky, motors:

13.5 Novak 3413SS
13.5 Novak Ballistic 3613
17.5 Novak Ballistic 3617
17.5 Novak 3417 SS 17.5 Pro

Thanks for the help. All three ESCs listed are on Novak's discontinued list.. Ugghhh...

There are still some new ones for sale on ebay though:

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/140899747...#ht_2861wt_952
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/290731959...ht_3037wt_1139

If you get one you might need a booster too...As I recall the Novaks don't have one built in.

Really? On what basis does Novak give them their "1S" status then, and how can the seller make this claim "Designed specifically for the extremely high demands of Oval 1S racing"? I'm not saying you're wrong just find it bizarre.

Get the Novak Impact Racing Brushless ESC with X-Drive and a Booster NOV5477 with Glitch Buster NOV5626.

I'm guessing you might have to cut the heat sink down so that it will fit under the body.