On-Road Racing 2012/2013
#196
#197
Suspended
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 521
Fun!
Couple building tips for the F104V2:
1. Minimize using the phillips head screws in the kit and use actual hardware with a hex drive.
2. Drill-ream-pretap some of the plastic holes, mainly the droop posts.
3. The front upper arms are tight on the ball studs. Once the ball stud is popped in, "crimp" the plastic around it until the ball move freely.
4. Use the "spiffy" C clips on the lower kingpin, the stock e-clips stick in the lower ball cup and cause grief. Gabe may have part number.
5. Do NOT paint body red.
The low maintenance is super sweet! No belts to clog, no CVDs to do...I'm so gald I invented this class.
Couple building tips for the F104V2:
1. Minimize using the phillips head screws in the kit and use actual hardware with a hex drive.
2. Drill-ream-pretap some of the plastic holes, mainly the droop posts.
3. The front upper arms are tight on the ball studs. Once the ball stud is popped in, "crimp" the plastic around it until the ball move freely.
4. Use the "spiffy" C clips on the lower kingpin, the stock e-clips stick in the lower ball cup and cause grief. Gabe may have part number.
5. Do NOT paint body red.
The low maintenance is super sweet! No belts to clog, no CVDs to do...I'm so gald I invented this class.
#198
Fun!
Couple building tips for the F104V2:
1. Minimize using the phillips head screws in the kit and use actual hardware with a hex drive.
2. Drill-ream-pretap some of the plastic holes, mainly the droop posts.
3. The front upper arms are tight on the ball studs. Once the ball stud is popped in, "crimp" the plastic around it until the ball move freely.
4. Use the "spiffy" C clips on the lower kingpin, the stock e-clips stick in the lower ball cup and cause grief. Gabe may have part number.
5. Do NOT paint body red.
The low maintenance is super sweet! No belts to clog, no CVDs to do...I'm so gald I invented this class.
Couple building tips for the F104V2:
1. Minimize using the phillips head screws in the kit and use actual hardware with a hex drive.
2. Drill-ream-pretap some of the plastic holes, mainly the droop posts.
3. The front upper arms are tight on the ball studs. Once the ball stud is popped in, "crimp" the plastic around it until the ball move freely.
4. Use the "spiffy" C clips on the lower kingpin, the stock e-clips stick in the lower ball cup and cause grief. Gabe may have part number.
5. Do NOT paint body red.
The low maintenance is super sweet! No belts to clog, no CVDs to do...I'm so gald I invented this class.
Part #84171 From Gabe, the walking RC encyclopedia...
http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/ite...oduct-id=84171
When you can build not only a new kit, but a new chassis that you've not run before, and be on pace (TQ!) your first day out? The car works.
It'll take folks a day to shake the chassis down, re-tighten everything, get your ride height as you like, but after that? Just run and have fun. Once you make adjustments to your liking, it just stays there week to week.
#203
#209
You'll like the 21.5 in the Benetton, very smooth.
Here's a cool link, these guys are pretty serious F1 fanatics.
http://uf1rc.com/gallery-44-uf1-2013-winter/
Here's a cool link, these guys are pretty serious F1 fanatics.
http://uf1rc.com/gallery-44-uf1-2013-winter/
Last edited by celt; 12-20-2012 at 05:54 AM.



