RC10B4.1 FT/WC
ok, apparently you didnt get me. C-Hubs make the rear end rotate more, but will give more forward bite. Plus i know the track that he races at, and we all run c-hubs. A-hubs DO NOT work well at our track. What he was wanting, was when he gave the throttle out of the turn, he needs more forward bite. But lets not get on that subject all over again....i just gave him simple help on the track that he races at.
It would be cool if the staff on this site would allow us to make a new thread for we can have the new comers be able to look at the first post and find out all of the information that keeps getting repeated because it's not on the first page.. Oh well..
While I'm here, I broke a T plate.. How? Who knows... How do they usually break?
While I'm here, I broke a T plate.. How? Who knows... How do they usually break?


Pretty sure the c hubs help getting on the throttle quicker on landings.
Do you think SJRC has picked up enough rubber to run the C now or still with the A hubs?
gotta finish putting on Mikes set up you sent me a few weeks ago, All the family holiday stuff and side work has taken away from my wrench time. Good thing the E-buggy didn't need much work
Got the AE bb springs coming in along with the VTS but still need a B44 slipper spring and time to paint a new body
I was just curious if the u brace mod would change anything with the front handling, rear grip is currently good but want to try it out unless it created push or something. Im still learning how to dial in the buggy but I still have a few basic things to try in the front though that's why I didn't get detailed with my setup. Luckily a lot of the AE drivers are local but don't wanna bug them till I try a few things.
Got a noob questions since I can't seem to find the answer in this thread. 
So I have a B4.1 Worlds car and I'm trying to understand how the aluminum rear hubs and suspension mounts work together. I understand they are all designed to adjust rear toe in my car. And it sounds like instead of just replacing the suspension mount to increase or decrease the rear toe, you can swap out the aluminum rear hubs since they are easier to get to. But I also read those aluminum rear hubs do change the way car feels since they are further out.
So I can run my 0 hubs with a 4 degree mount and have 4 degrees of rear toe, but instead if I use a 0.5 hub with a 3.5 mount again I have 4 degrees of rear toe, but the car will handle differently???
And those A, B, and C hub braces are designed to change the roll center for the car right?

So I have a B4.1 Worlds car and I'm trying to understand how the aluminum rear hubs and suspension mounts work together. I understand they are all designed to adjust rear toe in my car. And it sounds like instead of just replacing the suspension mount to increase or decrease the rear toe, you can swap out the aluminum rear hubs since they are easier to get to. But I also read those aluminum rear hubs do change the way car feels since they are further out.
So I can run my 0 hubs with a 4 degree mount and have 4 degrees of rear toe, but instead if I use a 0.5 hub with a 3.5 mount again I have 4 degrees of rear toe, but the car will handle differently???
And those A, B, and C hub braces are designed to change the roll center for the car right?
B hubs have the holes that are in between A. C hubs have the same holes as an A hub but it's a different height. Changing the holes in these rear hub towers will change the length of your camber link after you reset camber which will change your camber gain.
It would be cool if the staff on this site would allow us to make a new thread for we can have the new comers be able to look at the first post and find out all of the information that keeps getting repeated because it's not on the first page.. Oh well..
While I'm here, I broke a T plate.. How? Who knows... How do they usually break?
While I'm here, I broke a T plate.. How? Who knows... How do they usually break?
It would be cool if the staff on this site would allow us to make a new thread for we can have the new comers be able to look at the first post and find out all of the information that keeps getting repeated because it's not on the first page.. Oh well..
While I'm here, I broke a T plate.. How? Who knows... How do they usually break?
While I'm here, I broke a T plate.. How? Who knows... How do they usually break?
Thanks, yeah I already have the C-hubs installed, on the brace I run i have no washers and a lower profile ball stud that what the kit shipped with but learned of the shaving recently after seeing it in setup sheets and mentioned in here. Im very curious to try it out. I have so many different setup ideas I wanna try but not enough track time.....Man being a "newly wed" and ocrc literally 10mins away is a bad mix haha.
Tech Master
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Reading 1/4 of the threads is not very plausible since there are over 25,000 posts
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 8,616
From: New Jersey
Bob,
Do you think SJRC has picked up enough rubber to run the C now or still with the A hubs?
gotta finish putting on Mikes set up you sent me a few weeks ago, All the family holiday stuff and side work has taken away from my wrench time. Good thing the E-buggy didn't need much work
Got the AE bb springs coming in along with the VTS but still need a B44 slipper spring and time to paint a new body 
Do you think SJRC has picked up enough rubber to run the C now or still with the A hubs?
gotta finish putting on Mikes set up you sent me a few weeks ago, All the family holiday stuff and side work has taken away from my wrench time. Good thing the E-buggy didn't need much work
Got the AE bb springs coming in along with the VTS but still need a B44 slipper spring and time to paint a new body 
If you are running the AE bb springs that was on that setup, you probably want to go one step softer front and rear as it was more for higher bite that we had at bumps. Everything else should translate over fine though.
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 8,616
From: New Jersey
The track lost some grip compared to the Turkey race. But now that it's open full time, it will likely groove up more. With that said, I would run A hubs for now. Keep in mind if you run the A hubs, you run with a NON shaved U brace OR you put 2 washers on a shaved one.
If you are running the AE bb springs that was on that setup, you probably want to go one step softer front and rear as it was more for higher bite that we had at bumps. Everything else should translate over fine though.
If you are running the AE bb springs that was on that setup, you probably want to go one step softer front and rear as it was more for higher bite that we had at bumps. Everything else should translate over fine though.
Just like always, tires are what is going to be important there. And honestly, until the track settles, no one knows which tires will work best.
My money is going to be on green V1 barcodes but you could just as easily run Ifmar Pins LOL. Give it another weekend or two and then you'll see it sort out
I think you got me mixed up with someone else on the 7.5 motor though. I have always done 17.5 and once upon a time at ocrc when they used to have a super stock 13.5 truck class
I wish they did 13.5 sometimes but 17.5 is a nice motor at their track anyways.
Thanks, yeah I already have the C-hubs installed, on the brace I run i have no washers and a lower profile ball stud that what the kit shipped with but learned of the shaving recently after seeing it in setup sheets and mentioned in here. Im very curious to try it out. I have so many different setup ideas I wanna try but not enough track time.....Man being a "newly wed" and ocrc literally 10mins away is a bad mix haha.
I am not a B4.1 owner yet, but at a recent event I was informed by an AE employee that the box art was nearly completed and advised it would be wise money to wait for a few weeks for the new release instead of upgrading a B4.1 WC



