I have only ever asked one team driver for help. That was Matt Francis at the 2002 mod nationals. He helped me with my Trinity Motor that had crushed brush hoods. But overall I dont really feel like the team drivers are overly approachable. Some are better than others, but over all they always seem way to busy with their own cars.

+1. All the AE guys at OCRC and WCRC are super nice and helpful

Many may seem that way until you actually approach them, andspeak to them. Some of the most humble, and hospitable racers I've run with are backed by big time sponsors.

Like I said Matt F helped me no problem. I think part of it is in how they pit. Brian Kinwald at our LHS pits in the far back corner. You have to go through a lot of people to actually reach him. So it makes it feel less approachable. If I see team guys pit in a more accessible way, then I assume they are making an effort to make themselves more available. Matt F at nats was pitting right on the main isle. Actually right near the hobby shop, you had to walk past him to go into the shop.

I had Billy Easton once tell me to not poke his eye out with my antenna, lol. I was slightly embarrassed, lol. So glad the 4 foot long antennas are gone.

A lot of Pro's are cool at and away from the track. No need to be intimidated

I know he drives for TLR but Truhe is pretty laid back.

I think they are all approachable you just have to use common sense. Don't walk up to them when they are prepping for a run. Don't walk up to them and say fix it. Remember that RC is their job, so maybe try starting the conversation out with something Non RC and see what happens

Oh, but if you see Mike Gay, you can walk up to him and just say fix it. He LOVES it when you do that.

Got a noob questions since I can't seem to find the answer in this thread.

So I have a B4.1 Worlds car and I'm trying to understand how the aluminum rear hubs and suspension mounts work together. I understand they are all designed to adjust rear toe in my car. And it sounds like instead of just replacing the suspension mount to increase or decrease the rear toe, you can swap out the aluminum rear hubs since they are easier to get to. But I also read those aluminum rear hubs do change the way car feels since they are further out.

So I can run my 0 hubs with a 4 degree mount and have 4 degrees of rear toe, but instead if I use a 0.5 hub with a 3.5 mount again I have 4 degrees of rear toe, but the car will handle differently???

And those A, B, and C hub braces are designed to change the roll center for the car right?

They wouldn't get to where they are today if they were ass holes. They represent a team(s) and are paid or incentivized to be ambassadors of the hobby. With that being said they are all pretty cool. Just don't mess with them when you can see they had a bad run or look to be in a rush. Just ask if they have a few minutes to help you out

...i dont....understand? Is it a warzone?

I mean were not asking the guys out on dates were talking about toys!

Yes it is.

what benefit does the shaved rear brace and " c " hubs have on the car. I run on a high bite clay track and my car seems to over rotate exiting turns, i currently am running the stock u brace, 1 washer and " b " hubs.

try tightening your diff then checking your slipper.

Eddie, run the C hubs at JCP. The c-hubs will lock your rear end in a bit more. I run the c hub and flat u brace with one .030 washer

I thought the rear hubs go something along these lines (and please correct me if I'm wrong):
A hub use in low tractions condition, more locked in rear, more roll, less steering
B hub use in medium traction, car is more neutral?
C hub use in high traction (clay, groove) rear end is loose, improves steering less roll

All this is based on the roll center postion and ball studs added or removed from U brace and location moved in or out on the hub. Seems that the major change is to go from A to C hub and back but not alot of B hub users.