People want a new/updated buggy so bad that they will talk about it and speculate endlessly, thinking that if they keep saying it's coming that somehow it will magically appear.

Maybe someone should contact Santa and his Elves. Maybe they know the inside scoop...

Before you get a million people telling you need stuff....

The kit out of the box is capable of winning the worlds.

The only two things that I think you can say are CLOSE to being required (but really aren't):

Hex conversion (makes it easier because you can borrow tires from others if needed or to try)
Aluminum steering rack ( stock steering servo saver deflects too easy and you lose steering. Either glue it or replace with aluminum)

that's it.

The big bore shocks are nice, but not needed. Eventually switch to them so that you can use current setups, but this can wait for quite a while.

The slipper (Avid or VTS) will not be noticed by a newbie

As far as spares... I would keep a set of front and rear arms, caster blocks, and bulkhead handy.

One thing you will notice with the 4.1 is that the plastics wear faster than some of the other cars. This isn't all bad. The slop in the car actually adds traction on lower bite surfaces

Once you get to a point that your driving is suffering from parts wear, then you will want to change them over. Generally speaking, you will do this a few times a season. You can avoid this by running carbon parts, but they can be more brittle in lower temps. For a newbie, I would just use the plastics.

The only other thing I can say is that it's just like onroad, if your tires aren't right, no amount of tuning will help.

Overall, the 4.1 community is pretty helpful here so keep yourself active here and you'll enjoy the experience

+1 Bob Barry is right on!

+2 Bob Barry is right on!

bob lies, you also want some lead......

Depends on your setup. I keep removing weight.

We just received 2 chassis and bodies and a handful of parts but am in need of a bunch more to complete 2 more builds for our program. Special thanks to zeakmedia for the parts.

Used parts work fine and we will accept anything you would like to donate for AE B4.1 - T4.1 - SC10 2wd. Also looking for ESC/motors and Losi/Spektrum radios to convert a few more cars over to 4AA batteries rather than 8AA.

Here is the link

http://www.rctech.net/forum/11518427-post54.html

As always thank you for your support.
Vince

The only weight I've seen lately is on the driver's stand, me included. I don't know what it is, but for some reason driving an RC car, cheeseburgers and pizza all seem to go together.

Here is question regarding the slop in the front end and setting camber. I've noticed that if i set my camber then wiggle the front end, the camber will be off a degree or two according to the guage. So what i have been doing to try keeping camber consistent is to drop the car, make sure the front wheels are straight then i have pulling in the tops of the wheel towards the center of the car.

Does anyone do it differently or another way that keeps the car set up consistent?

I find as I remove weight, the car becomes way more sensitive to changes. Both track and car changes. Which is both good and bad.

get the heavy duty rpm or lunsford ball cups and put em on right away, probably want spare bearings too at least for the hubs and front wheels. avid sells em online for just 1$ each.
CA glue your servosaver
velcro on the body

Best you can do is to use a camber gauge as well as eyeball it. Don't view it as slop but more like active camber/caster adjustability on the fly. Embrace the slop....

Hideeho
ROFLMAO
The new AE mantra!

Hideeho
http://www.teamassociated.com/cars_and_trucks/Apex/RTR

Well, if the "6 new cars" rumor is to be believed I guess were SOL for a b4.2 or b5. Oh well, I guess AE gets no $ from me this xmas.

I actually think the car drives better after it is "broken" in.