I have an SC10 and I do not want to have to add weights to the front in order to make the nose go down more on the jumps. I have the battery placed all the way forward and hit the brakes EVERY time in the air and it still dosent go "nose down" any help on how to fix this would be great. Thanks.

Part of it is your ride height and suspension as well as you hit the jumps.
You can cut some air vents in the body and see if that helps.I have the same truck and don't cut vents its up to you.

I'm having the same issue with my SC10 on certain jumps. I can jump level with my XXX-SCT. Even if it messes up the rear grip, I'm going to try a slightly softer spring in front and stiffer spring in the rear and see if it pops the rear up some. My SCB was nosing a bit recently and I bumped up the rear spring and it's doing a lot better.

Moving the rear shocks in will help in jumps but,well driving it doesn't handle so great.

If you're accelerating while taking off from the jump, it'll bring the nose up a lot more, making you have to correct it further while in the air. Try letting off the throttle just as you hit the jump face, and then stab the brakes in the air like you mention already doing.

If that isn't enough, consider if you can put stiffer suspension in back or softer in the front, and still get reasonable traction in non-jump sections. Also consider venting the front of your body, specifically in front of the windshield and the top/back of the front wheel area.

Note: This is assuming that your front suspension isn't already too soft or too low. If it is, you'll bottom out the front on the face of the jump and that will kick the front end up even higher. If that is the case, add more ride height, more dampening, and/or a stiffer spring in the front, depending on what will hurt less on the rest of the track.

Just to add to what the other guys are saying here.

Generally speaking, I setup my car as to how it drives on the ground, and how it jumps is how it jumps (granted, this is dependent on how many jumps are in the track, but this is how I do it for an average track). You're on the ground 90% of the time so bias your setup that way.

I've found that with 2WD vehicles (Buggy, Truggy, SCT etc.) the way you enter each jump and how you manage your throttle into and off the jump makes a huge difference. Right as I get ready to enter the face of a jump, I give the throttle a slight "blurp", and as it rotates from the base ground I let off of the throttle. Don't let off to early (or you may not clear the jump), but stay on the power too long, and you'll end up nose high. This is very similar to how I used to jump when I raced motocross, just a quick flick of the wrist as you rounded the bottom corner of the face.

Hope this makes sense.

Seth

all good advice hear and all that will help but you can try some drag brake also that helped me out alot

My SC10 had similar problems. Stiffer springs and lighter oil in the rear helped fix the problem. it does make the back end more unstable in chatter bumps on the track, but I prefer not having to caress the throttle for every jump. i found the tradeoff still turned into shorter lap times...