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Old 11-15-2012 | 09:32 AM
  #24091  
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Besides bottoming out over overshot jumps, is there any other reason I should change my V2's out to big bores?

I really don't want to deal with the hassle of mounting and finding a springs setup I like.

What would would be a comparable spring setup to V2 Brown and V2 Green.

Seems like V2 Brown and Green works best at my track.
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Old 11-15-2012 | 09:45 AM
  #24092  
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The new bb springs are the same rate I believe. At least the green and brown are
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Old 11-15-2012 | 09:56 AM
  #24093  
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Originally Posted by Waflet
Hideeho
I have my avids mounted on the back side of the hub. Look back a few pages for pics.
If you have the avids mounted on the back side of the hub i can assure you that you are binding on the rim when you are running unless you shaved the top down alot.
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Old 11-15-2012 | 09:58 AM
  #24094  
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does anybody have a good base set up for the car or point me to where i can find one?
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Old 11-15-2012 | 10:10 AM
  #24095  
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Did you start with the stock setup? If so, what do you want it to do that it's not doing?
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Old 11-15-2012 | 10:11 AM
  #24096  
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Will the big bore shocks fit with Exotik rear hubs?
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Old 11-15-2012 | 10:42 AM
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Originally Posted by caprezmikeb
Sorry for the misunderstanding. My car pushes like crazy I looking to get more steering.
No problem!

Follow my same advice. Put the Cav Nats setup on BUT change the 3 deg of inboard toe to 2.5 deg of inbord toe. Don't make any other changes until you have run the car a few times that way.

I suspect the reason you feel the push so much is your car is too locked in and just won't rotate. Basically you are "steering from the rear" which you don't want.

Since A towers make the car feel more locked in, I don't think you should change to them. The C Towers will allow it to rotate.

Lessening the toe will also allow you to rotate more but since you will have more consistent traction through out the entire turn, you won't feel like you are super loose. You just have to be a little careful if there are loose sections on the track because you are now freeing up your rear some.

These changes are gradual, so you won't have to relearn how to drive.
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Old 11-15-2012 | 10:48 AM
  #24098  
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Originally Posted by Wildcat1971
yeah, I have some avids A/C hubs on the way. but you cant mount those on the backside of the hub. Which is what I am doing now. The AE springs seem to be a little wider than the losi ones. The bind up a lot more on the turnbuckle than the losis did. I had a .06 spacer on the bottom and it still rubbed.
mounted on the backside of the hub? u mean like the whole carbon hub is on the back side ..any way i could see a pic of someone doing this? thanks
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Old 11-15-2012 | 11:17 AM
  #24099  
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Originally Posted by t0p_sh0tta
Did you start with the stock setup? If so, what do you want it to do that it's not doing?
i havent run it yet. the car is a brand new rtr. i was just looking to print diff set ups to take to the track with me
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Old 11-15-2012 | 11:18 AM
  #24100  
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Originally Posted by Venom1836
Besides bottoming out over overshot jumps, is there any other reason I should change my V2's out to big bores?

I really don't want to deal with the hassle of mounting and finding a springs setup I like.

What would would be a comparable spring setup to V2 Brown and V2 Green.

Seems like V2 Brown and Green works best at my track.
They have big bore brown and green springs too. Also...working on the cars and mounting things the way they are supposed to be mounted is just part of the hobby...that will never go away.
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Old 11-15-2012 | 11:19 AM
  #24101  
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Hmm whats the difference from Team associated B4.1 FT vs Team associated B4.1 WC car?

Best Regards.
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Old 11-15-2012 | 11:23 AM
  #24102  
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Originally Posted by pballer2777
i havent run it yet. the car is a brand new rtr. i was just looking to print diff set ups to take to the track with me
There are setups on RC10.com.
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Old 11-15-2012 | 11:35 AM
  #24103  
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Originally Posted by pballer2777
does anybody have a good base set up for the car or point me to where i can find one?
Originally Posted by t0p_sh0tta
There are setups on RC10.com.
Also Petitrc
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Old 11-15-2012 | 11:50 AM
  #24104  
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Originally Posted by Bob Barry
No problem!

Follow my same advice. Put the Cav Nats setup on BUT change the 3 deg of inboard toe to 2.5 deg of inbord toe. Don't make any other changes until you have run the car a few times that way.

I suspect the reason you feel the push so much is your car is too locked in and just won't rotate. Basically you are "steering from the rear" which you don't want.

Since A towers make the car feel more locked in, I don't think you should change to them. The C Towers will allow it to rotate.

Lessening the toe will also allow you to rotate more but since you will have more consistent traction through out the entire turn, you won't feel like you are super loose. You just have to be a little careful if there are loose sections on the track because you are now freeing up your rear some.

These changes are gradual, so you won't have to relearn how to drive.

i don't think A towers make the car more locked in.. it lets the rear roll more. But what do i know

All tracks are not created equal, a C tower is something that was designed for high bite indoor... If you are running a c-hub on an outdoor medium to low bite track your setup is broken.
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Old 11-15-2012 | 11:53 AM
  #24105  
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Originally Posted by MikeFriery
i don't think A towers make the car more locked in.. it lets the rear roll more. But what do i know
i thought the same thing. I heard from a really good source ik that the c towers help landing a little off and bringing the power back on the car to correct.


But to me they made my b4.1 feel so awful. We do all drive differently.
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