+1

That's why the AVID rack is so popular, even jconcepts jumped in on the fun.

Since I centered my electronics my car jumps and lands much better.

I know it would raise the cg. But it seems like mounting it over the tray, instead of in it ,would make esc programming and tuning easier.

Pics? I wanna do mine like that.

I just recently got my RC10B4.1 and was wondering about some stuff.

I just took my car out for the first time today and it was fun running it but I notice when I tried turning both rear wheels together, it was very tight and when I ran it I notice the noise sounded like screeching and gotten louder than box stock.

I also don't like the servo from box stock, just slow and radius is horrible. I was wondering on what you guys recommend to replace in the B4.1?
Is the savox sc-1257TG recommended? It's fast, titanium gears, and high torque for this 2wd car. Also does anyone know if I need a BEC or whatever? I notice in my vorza I needed one since it would shutoff randomly and come back.

Thanks

i would get a solar d770 servo. your gear mesh seems off. hence the noise and tightness.

Hideeho
I run a Savox 1258 & love it. I have also used the d770 & found it quite decent. I've got 2 kids w/ rc cars, the youngest has the stock servo, the oldest has the d770 & I have the 1258. The jump from stock to the d770 is incredible, the jump from the d770 to the 1258 is dramatic, but no where near as big as from the stock to d770. If you are on any kind of a budget at all, or have never used a fast servo before, the d770 will blow you away (& save you a bunch of $ for tires & practice), until you use an even better servo.

The Savox fast servos (1257 & 1258) draw lots of power. If you have other things in your system that bottle neck power (Spektrum dsm1 but not dsm2 receivers, Castle ESC, etc) you will run into brown out issues. When a brown out occurs you can loose stearing partially (doesn't get to full lock & feels like a push) or fully, or you can loose trottle, again either partially or fully. If this occurs you need a glitch buster. Most any LHS should stock them & they run $5-$6.

Wildcat nailed it on the gear mesh for the noise. Even if you set the gear mesh perfectly, 1 landing on the rear end can push you motor forward & tighten your gear mesh. While driving you can tell this by how much the buggy slows down when you let the trottle go. It should roll smoothly to a stop in several feet. In severe cases the rear wheels will lock right before the car stops even with no brakes. The way to solve this is to not goose it right before take off & roll off the throttle while in the air. Done properly the car attitude will follow the arc of the jump & land slightly nose down on the down side of the ramp. Good luck nailing that every time, but that is why you saved $ on the d770, to get more practice time.

I plan on getting the savox 1257, I would assume it is a perfect fit?
Where can I get this glitch buster online? preferably amainhobbies or towerhobbies links is recommended.

As for the gear mesh, I found that out after opening my gear cover. So your saying I shouldn't gas it right before a jump? I think the reason this happened is because I had to throttle it over a jump and the second jump I slammed the brakes because the way the jump was made didn't give me enough space before I nose in and crash everytime... I'm assuming the braking was the issue?

Hideho
Glitch buster
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...tage-Protector

Yes, I forgot about nosing it in because I see my son tail it in & mash the mesh so often, nosing it in will move the motor forward also. The idea with a buggy is to always be SMOOTH, but especially on the jumps (you break more stuff missing a jump than you do missing a corner ). If you quickly ease into the throttle before a jump & ease out a little during, your buggy will make a smooth arc from ramp to ramp, with the chassis starting parallel the launch ramp & end slightly nose down to the landing ramp (even if it is flat ground).

p.s. 1257 is a perfect fit, no spacers needed to mount it.

Oh I forgot to mention, I plan on getting the flysky gt3c, I would assume I don't need a glitch buster, but I'm going to get one for the heck of it. Where do I put it in my RX?

This is a little off topic, but my vorza as I explained earlier has BEC issues and the HPI support told me to get the castle creations BEC. Does that Spektrum Voltage Protector you linked me work the same? If so I might as well save some cash. And It doesn't matter if its spektrum right? Cause all my TX/RX aren't spektrum.

Guys is it my imagination or was there something about shorty lipos not being ROAR all of a sudden?

Where do you install the ballast on the worlds b4.1 and what you mount it with.

Your imagination...a manufacturer cannot design a car to work ONLY with shorties, it must be able to fit a standard size battery.
Mounts between the tranny and the toe block for the rear arms. It just sandwiches in between the two.

For those wanting pictures of a b4.1 with battery in/above battery tray here you go:
http://www.rctech.net/forum/attachme...hread-b4.1.jpg

Think i am going to put my ESC in the try instead of overtop. I will report next time I got back to the track.

I have the 1257 and just recently got the glitchbuster to solve my brown out issues. Where do transponders connect to with the glitchbuster in the AUX jack? Do I just need to splice it into the power/ground leads? I want a transponder, but I don't want to deal w/ a huge PITA wiring mess.
TIA.