Ok.
I don't own one myself, but last week I helped somebody with the Orion 1-2S, we borrowed the program box from another Orion user who has the 2-3S version, and it didn't work either, it seems that there is a difference between the cable from a 2-3S ESC compared to 1-2S ESC.
Does that help you?
Next thing I can think about, is your motor still connected to the ESC with it's sensor cable? If so, please disconnect it.

Also for drifting?

Martin, Disconnecting the motor should not be a problem. I've programmed my speedo with both the box and motor plugged in.

Hobbywing box doesn't work with the Orion. It's different!

Regards Robert

I know, Where did I mention Hobbywing?

I am running 1/12 scale and I am using a Novac GTB 4cell do I need to be running a Booster pack or a reciver battery

Maybe.

Try it and see what happens. It may depend on how much of the battery you are using in a run.

I've been running a booster in one of my cars with the 4-cell novak for most of this year. The issue i had without it was as soon as i plugged a personal transponder in, everything would go crazy. Fitted the booster, no issues after that.

There is no servo that runs well on 3.7v. They are designed to run on 4.8v. anything less and they will run really slow. If you do not have a booster, rx pack or a speedo with a built in booster you need to get one of those 3.

Aside from the sticky natural rubber tires, what setup changes are typical in swapping a car from being a 'stock' car with a premium on conserving energy in the corners to a 'modified' car where you need to use the setup and drag brake to slow the car in corners and run a tighter line? Is it really just the tires and steering throw, or is there a well-measured change to be made? I have checked setup sheets and other sources of information but it sees that for even the same driver using the same chassis the setup differences in stock and modified are minimal aside from tires and steering settings... I ask because I wound up using my 'stock' 1/12 car to run modified at the last IIC, and while I didn't embarass myself as badly as I thought I would my car had a very different way of going around the track than the experienced 1/12 racers. My car tended to look like an overpowered stock car (which it was, even with a tire swap to the soft natural rubber) and the experienced Mod racers cars basically bounced off the apexes of corners.

At the nationals this past year I ran stock and mod. I use the same tires in both classes, magenta front and pink rear. For stock I ran 22 front springs, a stiffer center spring and a little less dual rate. For mod I used 20 front springs. That's all that was different. I tqed stock and was second in mod. It mainly comes down to experience, practice, and attention to detail on the cars. Any setup will work in stock, the setup will be tested in mod.

Im getting a RC12R5.2 next week to race in 13.5 Blinky. I want to know if the Flow is the replacement to the Stock Spec v2. or will the Stock spec , still be relevant. Ive seen some Stock spec combos for $259 with Reedy motor but ive also seen $169 for a Flow. Which is better for Blinky 1/12?

If Blinky and LRP are the focus
I would choose the SXXComp VII as it's the lightest of the LRP line
Lightweight is important with 12th scale

I have the same question for blinky TC.............

I have both the sxx and the flow,the main difference is the sxx does not require a booster/receiver battery and the flow does.
However the flow is very smooth and if you can put up with a small battery it is well worth it.

I have the SXX in my 12th and have heard that the battery is better to boost the servo. Would it help where the SXX already does that? Do I need a different esc? I hate the idea of a rx pack on the car, but if it helps the power, then I'll do it. What battery do most of you use for this.