My B4.1 wc seems to go need the rear inner hub bearings replaced too often, is this normal for the car? I also heard of the hubs some kits were not made correct, any fix for this besides buying new hubs?

i just picked up a b4.1 rtr and was wondering what tuning oprtions are needed? springs, etc

if you dont need c hubs. try the b44 plastic hubs. If you really like the alum hubs. try avid bearings and put some grub screws in.

[QUOTE=EJF;11428313]My B4.1 wc seems to go need the rear inner hub bearings replaced too often, is this normal for the car? I also heard of the hubs some kits were not made correct, any fix for this besides buying new hubs?[/QUOTE


No problems with production of the hubs ,assuming you have the blue metal Ae hubs.

The inside bearing wears & needs replacement more often then the larger outside bearing.

Main reasons for hub bearing failure is big hits & hard landings on one wheel...

I assume you cannot use a set up from a b4.1 wc to set up a b4 without the extended chassis?

Do you guys think there is any need to keep the extra spring cups that came with the big bore shocks? I only used the ones for the b4&b44. Do you think the others might be a tuning option in the future or will they just be good for the truck applications?

F18


Ae just thought ahead with the spring cups .

Racers are always are trying different springs from other manufactures.

Keep the other size cups handy if you wish to use different springs...

It's so you can adjust the free height of the spring so you can get the ride height correct if you want to use a different (longer or shorter than designed) spring.

For example, if you want to use a buggy front on a stadium truck you can use the larger offset cup. Or, if you use the longer Kyosho springs, you can use the smaller offset cup.

It's mostly a stadium truck or short bus thing.

Has anyone used the bfast teflon shim kit on their b4?. Like on the front and rear to tighten up the slop in the hub/hingepin areas?

i am new to the 4.1 worlds camp. just wondering are all the parts plastic or graphite ( arms, chassis etc)

100% plastic

I have been talking with AE via Email.

They say that if I don't purchase and send them a LRP ESC before the board replacement it will cost about $100 dollars to get a new board.

Should I hurry and get an SXX TC V2 before the offer ends or wait and get the new FLOW ESC along with a Reedy Sonic 7.5.

I will only be running MOD 2WD buggy with a full sized 25C Reedy LiPo and XP 1015 Servo.

They said that the old ESC's will be replaced by the Flow.

I really don't want to make an investment into a nice ESC/Motor and have it become outdated.

Thanks for reading and PLEASE help me out
-Venom

If it were me and I could wait I would. Got too see a flow this saturday and seems very nice.

do they have an eta on the flow? I saw pictures of it like 3-4 months ago.

Does it matter? All you're going to do is talk about it everyday and then bitch about the price once it does come out and then never end up getting one