Well its pretty obvious that almost everyone runs C-Hubs with a shaved U-Brace and 1 washer on the U-Brace ball stud.

Would you guys recommend this setup for my track?

It is indoor, small, med-high grip and Green Barcodes front and rear are the best tires.


And,

What is the size of the blue washers compared to stock silver washers?

Does the thicker one equal 2 silver washers?


Thanks!
-Venom

I heard that's why maifield dropped airtronics cause he couldn't keep the servos working. I don't know if it is a common problem though?

Also, I just ordered a set of yellow JC ball cups.

What is the best way to get these on without scratching the rods and ball cups?

It is a stripped servo gear. Had the same issue with a Furaba servo about a year ago. Just had to buy a gear kit and replace the gears. I never had to deal with Airtronics but I doubt they will cover that under warranty

I am not sure the gear is stripped. It drives fine and does not seem to act up while racing. It mainly does it when there is no load. I am not sure i have ever seen it act up with a load. I thought maybe whatever centers the servo went bad and it is going nuts trying to find center.

I have been buying airtronics servos/radios for a long time. If they blow me off, then I will move on to another brand.

That looks more like a burnt out POT that is under the main gear. It determines whether or not the servo is centered or not.

something like that was my guess. I sent the guy at an email last week before I made the video and he thought it was my radio. But that does not seem right.

Hey guys, i run on a super high bite indoor track were we run slicks. My question is, does graphite front arms, graphite front nose plate, and 2 hole castor blocks take traction away or does it make the car react quicker and make the car twitchy?

Whatever

Definitely the potentiometer in the Servo has a dead spot. What is happening is the servo cannot Sense where neutral is exactly do it keeps going until it see's it's gone too Far then Has to Track back and then over shoots again.

The only DIY solution would be to desolder the pot and replace it. but that is if you can get the exact parts (or have spare servos with other problems)

Or just swap it out and talk to the Manufacturer about replacement.

It will take away traction slightly, makes it easier to drive on high bite.

Chenk the top case. One of the pin holes is probley oblonged from a hard hit. That will allow the pin to move and cause the jitter.

Hideeho
From experience, I can tell you exactly what that is. You are running the avid or jc bell cranks & hit something. This cracked the top of the case where one of the pins that holds a gear stack goes in a hole. If you have it on & move the servo horn, it will move just a little bit while it is sitting @ rest. This causes the servo to bounce back & forth as it tries to find center. If it is under warranty, send it in & then sell it. If they won't fix a 6 week old servo, I'd buy a case & then sell to switch to a different brand. It will break in the same place again. I went through 3 cases for a jr 9100s before giving up on it & getting a radiopost red (this for my agama, but it also broke the case in the b4.1xl with the avid bell cranks). I have had no problems out of my Savox 1258 with the avid cranks.

Oops, this is what happens when you don't read through before responding. See above

The stock silver are .030mm and the smaller blue in the pic are 1mm, and correct, the larger ones are 2mm.

yes, I am using avid cranks. /sigh Well i have a backup servo. I like the plan of getting it replaced then selling. I will try that.