Hmmm. Well see.

Ok, cool. Are you using the horn that looks like this? I would need an airtronics one.

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ronics--TLR-22

is the losi horn 4-40 tapped?

no its metric but close enough it will work with a nut

It is a bigger hole but with a nut works great and I have one with three holes. It allows you to change mounting position for faster response or for more torque depending on where you mount it

Hideeho
The only issue I have had with the new bb shocks is the bushings are still on the loose side. This literaly just occured to me, so I haven't tested it yet. My Idea is to use the old v2 shock shafts in the new bb shocks. They are close in length (v2 f-20.3mm vs bb f-21mm, v2 r-25.9mm vs bb r-27.5mm). Those differences can be made up by removing droop shims. The important diffenece is the bb shafts are 3mm the v2's are 3.175mm. This might be enough to make a snug fit & elimiate play, or it might be too tight. We'll see. If its to tight I might just see if I can remove some material to get the fit I want.

Well my big bores arrived this afternoon. Should I just skip the AE o-rings and put Kyosho X-Rings in from the get go?

Same here.

I would. Ill be trying them when I rebuild my big bores.

When you sand the rings, you are creating a bearing surface for the diff balls to bed into. No different than honing texture into cylinder walls of an internal combustion engine so the rings have something to seal to. Polished is the last thing you want. I never buy new diff rings.

If I did, I would sand them.

Let me vouch for Johns diff balls and thrust balls. It was less than $10 to do the whole diff. The diff balls have outlasted a set of out drives in my SC10, I doubt they will ever wear out.

Ditto. Sanding a diff then not polishing it is silly IMO. I understand wanting a flat surface, but the AE are really very good as is.

Keep in mind AE developed there diffs with a tolerance. If You sand them the balls will not be able to seat as deep thus less grip. The thicker the diff ring the deeper the ball can seat giving more bite under high torque bursts.

Seat the diff slowly tightening it in small increments at a time with a drill. Then install it in the kit. They will last longer and the diff will be able to endure more torque while lasting longer.

I totally disagree with the last post. It's your car do what you want, but the diff rings are not flat. Not even close.

http://www.bfastrc.com/seethediff.html

I didn't say they where flat. I said they were "good" as is. The important part to keep in mind however when you build tweek or modify your diffs is the tolerance. I have tried it all and bone stock diffs work and last the best in my personal testing. Sanding the rings and or both thrust and diff rings will result in the spring tension having to be tighter as the sanded diff breaks in. The grip comes from the scuff marks on less of the ball surface and will need to be adjusted sooner and will get gritty faster. Once the diff is fully broke in and the tension of the spring is bottomed out there will be less of the diff ball seated in the ring.

Non sanded seated slowly will result in the ball seating deeper with more ball surface being contacted on the ring. Smoother stronger and will last longer.

The trick is to break them in slower. Grant it if you need a quick diff sanding will get you the grip quicker and break in is almost none but wont last as long and will get gritty faster.

I prefer taking my time and using the stock ring unsanded.

sure, but does it matter? once a diff is broken in, the balls are rolling in the groove they made for themselves and not on the surface.

Actually it does mater if you are anal about performance....
The rough edge left at the top of the groove will diminish and then your diff will begin to bark. Mainly due that the ring is not covering enough surface of the ball. The rough scuff marks are hell on a ball under force. It scars them as the diff wares.

Not trying to change the world or cure world hunger just pointing out some not so obvious things about the difference of sanding vs. not. Both options have a place as far as performance.

I believe non sanded are the best in performance.