Community
Wiki Posts
Search

RC10B4.1 FT/WC

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 10-14-2012 | 05:49 PM
  #22276  
Matt Trimmings's Avatar
Tech Champion
iTrader: (171)
 
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 6,313
From: Tucson AZ
Default

Trailing axles, inlines are a bit aggressive.
Matt Trimmings is offline  
Old 10-14-2012 | 07:26 PM
  #22277  
aeRayls's Avatar
Tech Elite
iTrader: (3)
 
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 2,257
Default

Originally Posted by ilanstylz
Ok for the front you would need the stock steering blocks and front axle to use the bearing wheels, and the rear you can just simply remove the hex adapter.........
In the rear you also need to put the wheel spacer back on that came stock.
aeRayls is offline  
Old 10-14-2012 | 07:29 PM
  #22278  
BIGSKI15's Avatar
Tech Addict
iTrader: (18)
 
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 570
From: Western PA
Default

When setting toe and camber, which should be done first or does it not matter?

Still trying to play with my gearing according to the searches I've been doing but haven't had a lot of tuning time. I'm running a tekin rs with a redline 13.5 with 28/72. Initially I had 25/81 but was sluggish comppared to the 28/72. Am I close on gearing for the 13.5? I've considered tryng a 75 and 78 spur too. What are the advantages/disadvantages to running a small spur compared to a big spur when FDR is about the same. I'm not running any boost or timing on the motor. The track is about 100x50:

Also, what is the ideal FDR or is it a preference. I do realize that motor and esc temps lay a role in gearing too.

Sorry for the newb questions but asking what I couldn't find.
BIGSKI15 is offline  
Old 10-14-2012 | 07:34 PM
  #22279  
Wildcat1971's Avatar
Thread Starter
Tech Prophet
iTrader: (84)
 
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 17,389
From: Arizona
Default

Originally Posted by BIGSKI15
When setting toe and camber, which should be done first or does it not matter?

Still trying to play with my gearing according to the searches I've been doing but haven't had a lot of tuning time. I'm running a tekin rs with a redline 13.5 with 28/72. Initially I had 25/81 but was sluggish comppared to the 28/72. Am I close on gearing for the 13.5? I've considered tryng a 75 and 78 spur too. What are the advantages/disadvantages to running a small spur compared to a big spur when FDR is about the same. I'm not running any boost or timing on the motor. The track is about 100x50:

Also, what is the ideal FDR or is it a preference. I do realize that motor and esc temps lay a role in gearing too.

Sorry for the newb questions but asking what I couldn't find.
you could probably go 30/72 with 13.5.
Wildcat1971 is offline  
Old 10-14-2012 | 07:45 PM
  #22280  
Tech Champion
iTrader: (42)
 
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 7,758
From: Chicago, IL
Default

Originally Posted by aeRayls
In the rear you also need to put the wheel spacer back on that came stock.
Cool. The blue aluminums?
Nexus is offline  
Old 10-14-2012 | 08:02 PM
  #22281  
klaymon's Avatar
Tech Elite
iTrader: (71)
 
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 2,330
From: Columbus, OH
Default

For anyone not following the separate big bore thread, I found a way to keep the shock/link from rubbing and get the rear shock straight up and down.

-------------------------

I ended up putting the C tower on the back of the hub and using a silver (long neck) ball stud on the hub instead of a black one. With the black ball stud, the ball cup was binding on the edge of the hub. Silver stud cured that. This let me remove all the lower spacers on the rear shocks and the link is nowhere near hitting the spring/shock and the shock is now straight up and down.
klaymon is offline  
Old 10-14-2012 | 08:04 PM
  #22282  
aeRayls's Avatar
Tech Elite
iTrader: (3)
 
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 2,257
Default

Originally Posted by Nexus
Cool. The blue aluminums?
Yessir
aeRayls is offline  
Old 10-14-2012 | 08:14 PM
  #22283  
Eli's Avatar
Eli
Tech Master
iTrader: (15)
 
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 1,553
From: San Diego, CA.
Default

Toe should always be adjusted last. Not sure on 13.5 gearing, and having the same FDR with different size spurs can change how the motor performs. Best thing is to play around with it and make sure you don't over heat your motor.


WHAT!, theres a big bore seperate thread? Crimy, i should look through all the current threads instead of sticking to my subscribed ones lol.
Eli is offline  
Old 10-14-2012 | 08:21 PM
  #22284  
klaymon's Avatar
Tech Elite
iTrader: (71)
 
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 2,330
From: Columbus, OH
Default

Originally Posted by Wildcat1971
you could probably go 30/72 with 13.5.
This was the gearing I ran when I was running 13.5 in my original B4. Temps were always very low.
klaymon is offline  
Old 10-14-2012 | 11:22 PM
  #22285  
PMAZ7's Avatar
Tech Adept
iTrader: (2)
 
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 169
Default

I'm sure someone has posted it, and I did try to search for it..... but....

Does anyone have a parts list for a complete replacement screw kit for b4.1FTWC

-OR-

At least the lower chassis screws? Thanks in advance!
PMAZ7 is offline  
Old 10-15-2012 | 04:55 AM
  #22286  
bds81175's Avatar
Moderator
iTrader: (20)
 
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 2,745
From: Litchfield, Minnesota
Default

Originally Posted by PMAZ7
I'm sure someone has posted it, and I did try to search for it..... but....

Does anyone have a parts list for a complete replacement screw kit for b4.1FTWC

-OR-

At least the lower chassis screws? Thanks in advance!
Not sure if he's doing it anymore or not but EvanAZ was selling AE screw kits to raise money for cars for kids at his local track. Try hittin' him up. He's a good fella.
bds81175 is offline  
Old 10-15-2012 | 06:31 AM
  #22287  
Wild Cherry's Avatar
Tech Legend
 
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 22,595
From: TRCR Modified Driver
Default

Originally Posted by PMAZ7
I'm sure someone has posted it, and I did try to search for it..... but....

Does anyone have a parts list for a complete replacement screw kit for b4.1FTWC

-OR-

At least the lower chassis screws? Thanks in advance!

check the instruction manual , all of the screws are listed .
Wild Cherry is offline  
Old 10-15-2012 | 07:36 AM
  #22288  
keidel's Avatar
Tech Regular
iTrader: (35)
 
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 386
From: Affton mo
Default

Originally Posted by klaymon
For anyone not following the separate big bore thread, I found a way to keep the shock/link from rubbing and get the rear shock straight up and down.

-------------------------

I ended up putting the C tower on the back of the hub and using a silver (long neck) ball stud on the hub instead of a black one. With the black ball stud, the ball cup was binding on the edge of the hub. Silver stud cured that. This let me remove all the lower spacers on the rear shocks and the link is nowhere near hitting the spring/shock and the shock is now straight up and down.
Anyway you can posts picture.
keidel is offline  
Old 10-15-2012 | 07:41 AM
  #22289  
07Forester's Avatar
Tech Master
iTrader: (10)
 
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 1,534
From: Yorkville, IL
Default

Originally Posted by aeRayls
In the rear you also need to put the wheel spacer back on that came stock.
IIRC. In the package for the hex conversion it tells you to remove them...
07Forester is offline  
Old 10-15-2012 | 09:08 AM
  #22290  
Matt Ward's Avatar
Tech Addict
iTrader: (23)
 
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 597
From: New Bloomfield, PA
Default

Originally Posted by 07Forester
IIRC. In the package for the hex conversion it tells you to remove them...
Yeah you do remove the blue cone spacer.
Matt Ward is offline  


Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2026 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.