RC10B4.1 FT/WC
10-08-2012 | 06:15 AM
Tech Regular
iTrader: (33)
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 365
From: PA
Just started experimenting with a shorty lipo. What is a good overall weight to shoot for. I am running the shorty clear forward with 2 oz. in the bulkhead and servo area, With the ae ballast weight in front of the toe block. I am still 2 oz. less then my standard lipo setup.
10-08-2012 | 06:20 AM
Just started experimenting with a shorty lipo. What is a good overall weight to shoot for. I am running the shorty clear forward with 2 oz. in the bulkhead and servo area, With the ae ballast weight in front of the toe block. I am still 2 oz. less then my standard lipo setup.
10-08-2012 | 06:41 AM
Just started experimenting with a shorty lipo. What is a good overall weight to shoot for. I am running the shorty clear forward with 2 oz. in the bulkhead and servo area, With the ae ballast weight in front of the toe block. I am still 2 oz. less then my standard lipo setup.
Ran on a med traction, very smooth track this past weekend, and I probably could have lost the nose weight, and moved my front hubs from full up to middle, or even full down.
I'm running skinny shoks, and big bore springs (losi Red/White).
10-08-2012 | 06:56 AM
That's exactly what I wanted to know. Thank you very kindly sir! 
AE buggy is what I'm shooting for now.
AE buggy is what I'm shooting for now.
My 2 cents: I race 17.5 and 13.5 2wd clube level. I have owned two TLR 22's and I currently have two 4.1 Worlds cars. The TLR and B4.1 are both very strong cars, neither will break your budget as far as repairs go. I am pretty good at tunning a car and setting it up, and I take extreme good care of my cars. They are used for racing only. The B4.1 is easier to setup, and adapts to the changing track. To me the 22 was hard to keep adjusted. One round it would be spot on setup, and the next round it was almost immpossilbe to drive. My 4.1's are forgiving and seem to stay good all race day even when the track condition changes. Most the guys at our local track went back to the B4.1 after buying TLR. The big bores are a great addition, got them already, however don't think you need to invest right off if you dont have the funds. The big bore springs on the regular shocks work well using the adapters and is an option til putting the ae big bores on. Thats an opinion from someone who has owned both. The TLR experiance was VERY frustrating for me.
10-08-2012 | 07:18 AM
Hideeho
When I tried a full pack w/ my t4 I had to put it full forward to get it to turn which put the weight balance forward which caused a noticible nose down jump. With the full pack to the rear it pushed, but jumped well. If you only have full size packs, I would recommend try it in the rear & tune with camber links (roll centers & camber gain), & tires (rips & 3ds instead of scrubs/vectors & dd's) to get more front end traction. For my track I'm running vectors (aggressive) & dd's (w/stock &1 inserts) with the shorty slightly rear of center (2/3 of the total spacers in front). If you can't get the car to work with the full size pack, make sure you borrow a shorty before you give it up.
I also tried the new bb's for the race Saturday. I found a setup I liked during morning practice, but ran out of time to test everything I wanted. We had a small turnout for buggy so with only an a-main I wasn't real concerned about qualifying & kept trying new stuff. As a result I qualified poorly. The set setup I used for the mains was the afore mentioned vectors (aggresive) & dd's (green w/ &1 inserts) with losi red/white springs on the new AE bb's with 30/27.5 oil. To make matters worse, I got tangled up on the 1st lap & fell way behind. I worked my way back up to 3rd & was a turn behind 2nd (setting the top 3 fastest laps of the race along the way), when my battery dumped with 2 minutes to go
. I put the battery that I used for the 3rd qualifier & a few minutes of testing before the main back in
. Oh well maybe next week.
The good thing about the weekend was I love the new bb's & they work well with the same setup I used on v2's. I also found out I don't like pro line medium or AKA red inserts in green dd's but I love them with the &1's on my track.
When I tried a full pack w/ my t4 I had to put it full forward to get it to turn which put the weight balance forward which caused a noticible nose down jump. With the full pack to the rear it pushed, but jumped well. If you only have full size packs, I would recommend try it in the rear & tune with camber links (roll centers & camber gain), & tires (rips & 3ds instead of scrubs/vectors & dd's) to get more front end traction. For my track I'm running vectors (aggressive) & dd's (w/stock &1 inserts) with the shorty slightly rear of center (2/3 of the total spacers in front). If you can't get the car to work with the full size pack, make sure you borrow a shorty before you give it up.
I also tried the new bb's for the race Saturday. I found a setup I liked during morning practice, but ran out of time to test everything I wanted. We had a small turnout for buggy so with only an a-main I wasn't real concerned about qualifying & kept trying new stuff. As a result I qualified poorly. The set setup I used for the mains was the afore mentioned vectors (aggresive) & dd's (green w/ &1 inserts) with losi red/white springs on the new AE bb's with 30/27.5 oil. To make matters worse, I got tangled up on the 1st lap & fell way behind. I worked my way back up to 3rd & was a turn behind 2nd (setting the top 3 fastest laps of the race along the way), when my battery dumped with 2 minutes to go
. I put the battery that I used for the 3rd qualifier & a few minutes of testing before the main back in. Oh well maybe next week.The good thing about the weekend was I love the new bb's & they work well with the same setup I used on v2's. I also found out I don't like pro line medium or AKA red inserts in green dd's but I love them with the &1's on my track.
10-08-2012 | 07:26 AM
+1, my jc racks are like a work of art, love them! Not sure how readily available they are but if you are in the market for one check one out as well as their wing mounts, just if you do get their wing mounts keep an eye on the screws that hold them in, they loosen up or atleast mine did. May just try a very small dab of loctite.
10-08-2012 | 07:27 AM
Anyone using the AVID A/C tower? I am tired of breaking studs off on my A tower and thought this bight be a good replacement. Also, would allow me to easily tune for A or C configurations. I am mainly concerned with how well it holds up with all of those holes.
10-08-2012 | 07:29 AM
Works great, they now come with a washer that you put on before the nut to better spread the load and decrease breakage. Ive never had one break but I know some who have, but thats no longer an issue.
10-08-2012 | 07:46 AM
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 2,152
From: Oklahoma
I just got a b4.1 wc i ran this weekend outdoor dry track,first time to race in 3 months car was getting pretty good by the end of the day,anyone running the big bores is that a very noticible change?i am thinking of ordering a set,thanks
10-08-2012 | 07:47 AM
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...-Tower-Set-A-B
10-08-2012 | 08:21 AM
Tech Addict
iTrader: (38)
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 628
From: Las Vegas nv
10-08-2012 | 08:25 AM
Pretty much any national level event (Nationals, Cactus Classic, Hot Rod Shootout) and even regional (regionals, state champ races, etc) level events. Not really done at a club race but its always good to make sure your legal so that if you ever do go to a race where they check you will be good to go. This is done with wheels, tires, body etc...ready to race.
10-08-2012 | 09:27 AM
They also reshaped it to add more material. I have broken one using the A position and the new shape should resolve that.