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Old 10-07-2012 | 06:12 PM
  #21736  
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Originally Posted by JEFFs SC10
what's up ilian! I'm running a SCTE now, got ride of the sc10 4x4 this wknd.
I have located a deal from a local racer, trying to see if it is still available.

id def put on the big bores, avid stuff, etc.
Sup bro, yeah I saw awhile back when you made the change....... I still have my sc10 but selling it only because I don't have the time anymore to run at the track as much as I would like.......... I'm just loving the b4.1 and its alot cheaper to run/maintain etc............
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Old 10-07-2012 | 06:17 PM
  #21737  
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Default good call...

Originally Posted by R.Shackleford
Why don't you just put a small steel washer on the screw before installing it into the arm?

Thanks for pointing out the obvious when I clearly missed it. The best view is usually from the outside! The only thing worse than a dnf is the walk of shame searching the track for missing valuable parts (titanium hinge pin).
Attached Thumbnails RC10B4.1 FT/WC-2012-10-07_18-11-37_624.jpg  
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Old 10-07-2012 | 06:22 PM
  #21738  
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Originally Posted by ilanstylz
Sup bro, yeah I saw awhile back when you made the change....... I still have my sc10 but selling it only because I don't have the time anymore to run at the track as much as I would like.......... I'm just loving the b4.1 and its alot cheaper to run/maintain etc............
yes so easy to work on, I had a b4 for about 3 weeks and loved how it easy it was to tinker with.

guess I got my mind made up now LOL
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Old 10-07-2012 | 06:46 PM
  #21739  
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Originally Posted by OptimumRC
One thing to double check is what ball studs you are running on the hubs, make sure it is a short neck ball stud. Another thing is your hub spacing I always run hubs center, and the link is just about touching the rear springs, but that is only with the A hubs. With the C towers the link does not touch at all.
I am running the B hubs. Even the B4.1 FT manual online shows the rear hub ballstuds as "long". No where in the Big Bore shock instructions provided does it mention needing to use short ballstuds on the rear, or change ballstud mounting position.

Pic attached.
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Old 10-07-2012 | 06:47 PM
  #21740  
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Originally Posted by savannahmick
I have been racing 17.5 SCT and Nitro Buggy for two years with good results but decided to give 2wd buggy a shot. I bought a B4.1 FTW from a pro who ran it once at Nats it had all the good Avid gear 12mm collars/Triad/alum. steering also has Losi BB spring sets. Anyway can someone help me out with a decent starting setup with 10mm v2 shocks and Losi 12mm bb springs? I went out today for some laps but rear grip was not there really I am running m3 Calibers on outdoor with a little dust had yellow rear springs and red front springs not sure about shock weight. I have got my 2wd SCT dialed and ran better laps with it so I know it's in need of a setup change/rebuild. Looking for any suggestions I have searched but get so many unrelated answers. Also foams I trimmed mine down to round edges but have a few soft spots in tire. One more thing the diff feels a little bumpy when I rotate wheels opposite how smooth should it feel? Thanks!
Sounds similar to the track I run at . 3ds orange are my tire of choice . amazing grip and showing little wear after approx 15 heats
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Old 10-07-2012 | 06:53 PM
  #21741  
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Originally Posted by rigor
I am running the B hubs. Even the B4.1 FT manual online shows the rear hub ballstuds as "long". No where in the Big Bore shock instructions provided does it mention needing to use short ballstuds on the rear, or change ballstud mounting position.

Pic attached.
I think he is referring to running the .300 short black ball stud. The manual does call for them as they are used in that location when building the kit. I have seen some substitute the silver tall .400 stud in this place and can cause the turnbuckle to rub bb springs

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...l-Stud-Black-6
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Old 10-07-2012 | 07:00 PM
  #21742  
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Originally Posted by rigor
I am running the B hubs. Even the B4.1 FT manual online shows the rear hub ballstuds as "long". No where in the Big Bore shock instructions provided does it mention needing to use short ballstuds on the rear, or change ballstud mounting position.

Pic attached.
That's shock body doesn't look good. I'm running a hubs but don't have my bb yet. I'll have to check mine when they get here on Tuesday.
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Old 10-07-2012 | 07:42 PM
  #21743  
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Originally Posted by savannahmick
I have been racing 17.5 SCT and Nitro Buggy for two years with good results but decided to give 2wd buggy a shot. I bought a B4.1 FTW from a pro who ran it once at Nats it had all the good Avid gear 12mm collars/Triad/alum. steering also has Losi BB spring sets. Anyway can someone help me out with a decent starting setup with 10mm v2 shocks and Losi 12mm bb springs? I went out today for some laps but rear grip was not there really I am running m3 Calibers on outdoor with a little dust had yellow rear springs and red front springs not sure about shock weight. I have got my 2wd SCT dialed and ran better laps with it so I know it's in need of a setup change/rebuild. Looking for any suggestions I have searched but get so many unrelated answers. Also foams I trimmed mine down to round edges but have a few soft spots in tire. One more thing the diff feels a little bumpy when I rotate wheels opposite how smooth should it feel? Thanks!
Hey Mick, when our track is that way, it's hard to get grip. You just have to learn to drive it that way to be honest. It's not an 1/8th scale.

However, I've been told Holeshots and Bowties work well when the track is that way. I've bought a set and plan to try them. We'll compare tires some this weekend.

Otherwise, the other gentlemen is correct. If the diff feels bumpy, rebuild it. It has to be smooth. Rebuild it by the instructions exactly!
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Old 10-07-2012 | 07:43 PM
  #21744  
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Default Triad slipper how tight?

I have my new triad slipper on and I have been trying to get it right and have been trying to hold down the back tires to get the front end to lift. I just cant get it to work right. I have the nut cranked down to almost a 1/4" down the shaft. Does this new slipper really have to be cranked down that much? Any replies really appreciated.
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Old 10-07-2012 | 08:02 PM
  #21745  
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Originally Posted by bogey33
I have my new triad slipper on and I have been trying to get it right and have been trying to hold down the back tires to get the front end to lift. I just cant get it to work right. I have the nut cranked down to almost a 1/4" down the shaft. Does this new slipper really have to be cranked down that much? Any replies really appreciated.

My triad has about 1/8" of top shaft poking out past the nut. My front wheels barely lift up off the ground when I hold the back wheels, to me its perfect. I would disassemble your slipper and start over, if that doesn't work check whole tranny.
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Old 10-07-2012 | 08:04 PM
  #21746  
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Originally Posted by bogey33
I have my new triad slipper on and I have been trying to get it right and have been trying to hold down the back tires to get the front end to lift. I just cant get it to work right. I have the nut cranked down to almost a 1/4" down the shaft. Does this new slipper really have to be cranked down that much? Any replies really appreciated.
Mine isn't cranked down really really tight but you don't want to check the slipper that many times in a row. It created too much heat and ruins the pads. Make sure you check it once or twice(picking the car up and giving it a little gas in between) and get it close enough to where you might like it, run a couple laps and then tighten or loosen it accordingly.

All this advice was told to me by Coach at Avid so I figure it's pretty decent advice
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Old 10-07-2012 | 08:08 PM
  #21747  
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STRC or Avid steering bellcrank?
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Old 10-07-2012 | 08:16 PM
  #21748  
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Originally Posted by bring it on
STRC or Avid steering bellcrank?
Avid.
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Old 10-07-2012 | 08:17 PM
  #21749  
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Originally Posted by bring it on
STRC or Avid steering bellcrank?
Avid
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Old 10-07-2012 | 08:27 PM
  #21750  
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@waffle I tried the t4 chassis today. It seemed off, but then i noticed my top 10 lap times were within 1 second, so it was consistent i guess. Also, I ran the carbon t4 chassis because that is what I had. The car felt kinda heavy though and jump a bit nose down. But I dont have a shorty, so maybe that is why it felt heavy.
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