RC10B4.1 FT/WC
Sup bro, yeah I saw awhile back when you made the change....... I still have my sc10 but selling it only because I don't have the time anymore to run at the track as much as I would like.......... I'm just loving the b4.1 and its alot cheaper to run/maintain etc............
Tech Addict
iTrader: (38)
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 628
From: Las Vegas nv
Thanks for pointing out the obvious when I clearly missed it. The best view is usually from the outside! The only thing worse than a dnf is the walk of shame searching the track for missing valuable parts (titanium hinge pin).
Sup bro, yeah I saw awhile back when you made the change....... I still have my sc10 but selling it only because I don't have the time anymore to run at the track as much as I would like.......... I'm just loving the b4.1 and its alot cheaper to run/maintain etc............
guess I got my mind made up now LOL
One thing to double check is what ball studs you are running on the hubs, make sure it is a short neck ball stud. Another thing is your hub spacing I always run hubs center, and the link is just about touching the rear springs, but that is only with the A hubs. With the C towers the link does not touch at all.
Pic attached.
I have been racing 17.5 SCT and Nitro Buggy for two years with good results but decided to give 2wd buggy a shot. I bought a B4.1 FTW from a pro who ran it once at Nats it had all the good Avid gear 12mm collars/Triad/alum. steering also has Losi BB spring sets. Anyway can someone help me out with a decent starting setup with 10mm v2 shocks and Losi 12mm bb springs? I went out today for some laps but rear grip was not there really I am running m3 Calibers on outdoor with a little dust had yellow rear springs and red front springs not sure about shock weight. I have got my 2wd SCT dialed and ran better laps with it so I know it's in need of a setup change/rebuild. Looking for any suggestions I have searched but get so many unrelated answers. Also foams I trimmed mine down to round edges but have a few soft spots in tire. One more thing the diff feels a little bumpy when I rotate wheels opposite how smooth should it feel? Thanks!
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...l-Stud-Black-6
That's shock body doesn't look good. I'm running a hubs but don't have my bb yet. I'll have to check mine when they get here on Tuesday.
Tech Adept
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 192
From: S.C.O.R.E. Savannah, GA
I have been racing 17.5 SCT and Nitro Buggy for two years with good results but decided to give 2wd buggy a shot. I bought a B4.1 FTW from a pro who ran it once at Nats it had all the good Avid gear 12mm collars/Triad/alum. steering also has Losi BB spring sets. Anyway can someone help me out with a decent starting setup with 10mm v2 shocks and Losi 12mm bb springs? I went out today for some laps but rear grip was not there really I am running m3 Calibers on outdoor with a little dust had yellow rear springs and red front springs not sure about shock weight. I have got my 2wd SCT dialed and ran better laps with it so I know it's in need of a setup change/rebuild. Looking for any suggestions I have searched but get so many unrelated answers. Also foams I trimmed mine down to round edges but have a few soft spots in tire. One more thing the diff feels a little bumpy when I rotate wheels opposite how smooth should it feel? Thanks!

However, I've been told Holeshots and Bowties work well when the track is that way. I've bought a set and plan to try them. We'll compare tires some this weekend.
Otherwise, the other gentlemen is correct. If the diff feels bumpy, rebuild it. It has to be smooth. Rebuild it by the instructions exactly!
Tech Rookie
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 7
I have my new triad slipper on and I have been trying to get it right and have been trying to hold down the back tires to get the front end to lift. I just cant get it to work right. I have the nut cranked down to almost a 1/4" down the shaft. Does this new slipper really have to be cranked down that much? Any replies really appreciated.
Tech Addict
iTrader: (38)
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 628
From: Las Vegas nv
I have my new triad slipper on and I have been trying to get it right and have been trying to hold down the back tires to get the front end to lift. I just cant get it to work right. I have the nut cranked down to almost a 1/4" down the shaft. Does this new slipper really have to be cranked down that much? Any replies really appreciated.
My triad has about 1/8" of top shaft poking out past the nut. My front wheels barely lift up off the ground when I hold the back wheels, to me its perfect. I would disassemble your slipper and start over, if that doesn't work check whole tranny.
I have my new triad slipper on and I have been trying to get it right and have been trying to hold down the back tires to get the front end to lift. I just cant get it to work right. I have the nut cranked down to almost a 1/4" down the shaft. Does this new slipper really have to be cranked down that much? Any replies really appreciated.
All this advice was told to me by Coach at Avid so I figure it's pretty decent advice
@waffle I tried the t4 chassis today. It seemed off, but then i noticed my top 10 lap times were within 1 second, so it was consistent i guess. Also, I ran the carbon t4 chassis because that is what I had. The car felt kinda heavy though and jump a bit nose down. But I dont have a shorty, so maybe that is why it felt heavy.



