Soak them in greased lightning cleaner, I just did mine, not a spec of blue on my buggy

Anile = picky

Anal = pertaining to the rectum

Spuer anal = I don't wanna write what that means. lol


FWIW....There's a distinct difference!


They're probably made by different people with different metals, which anodize a different shade. That'd be my guess anyway...

http://m.dictionary.com/definition/Anile/?linkId=khyton

Not according to dictionary.com but whatever, I'm not here to argue.

Back on topic,

About to start my main and I have to say, for me at least, the BB are like night and day compared to the V2's with BB springs

The metal is all the same, every batch of anodizing comes out a slightly different shade. You just got pieces from different batches.

They will with the stock parts because the shaft of a Kyosho is 2.5mm thick, and the associated is 3mm thick. You'd be losing a lot of oil in the process of running it as well (think Losi 22 or Durango DEX210 with stock rings leakage). Your O-rings will start to swell and the action will become even smoother (built a set for my brother and couldn't believe the side to side play the shocks have, the swelling fixes it.). Better then Kyosho shocks, debatable (My Schumacher Cougar had better big bores then the AE BB's), but definitely a step up from the V2's we had to deal with all these years. A little AE birdie whom I wont name said they are working on a better o-ring for the shocks that should be coming out either late in December or January. Ghea Delrin tapered pistons will work better for you then Kyosho Pistons, but are a pretty penny.

Rip it up Brenden!

Ok well for the record, I just yet again checked the AE instructions included with my shocks, and it states 2 washers at the bottom on the rears. I'm having a hard time believing AE would put out info that would cause this damage to occur, but since I'm using their shocks and springs, and have every correct size spacer in the correct location (and always did), this just seems messed up. I'm going to be stopping by AE next week. 2 new rear shock bodies and lower caps along with a solution is what I'll be expecting unless they can show me what I did wrong. I know it's only slight cosmetic damage, but obviously the link shouldn't be hitting (which is going to cause some change in performance).

Bummer, cause the car felt really nice to drive with these new shocks.

Yes 2 .030 silver washers, didn't hit anything on my brothers B4. Then again he hasn't run it either yet on a track so we will see. He is running Kyosho springs so it's good to know he wont have issues with rubbing.

Rigor-I noticed today that my rear shocks have the same issue...however I don't think it's due to spacing. I think the Rear springs were rubbing the shock body because they have too many coils. I switched to the X Gear springs and the problem is gone...

What rear springs were you using when you noticed the problem?

Can verify that, just got off the phone with my brother. His x-gear springs do not rub anywhere, nor according to him do they "compress funky" like the old AE springs do, perfectly flat from top to bottom.

http://www.avidrc.com/product/21/tri...er-clutch.html


Has anybody had one of these? Comments?

Have broken two ft towers after grinding to fit BB .

To use the original shock position you have grind quite bit off the ft tower.

Makes for a weaker part and now know from experience you guys might like to use something stronger .

Now use the longer FT shock bushing(#1781) & a .030 shim behind it .

You will have to shave very little for the shock to clear & makes for a lot stronger tower & a happier racer ....


Rear tower seems to be strong enough to handle the trim , no breaks from the rear tower yet ...

One thing to double check is what ball studs you are running on the hubs, make sure it is a short neck ball stud. Another thing is your hub spacing I always run hubs center, and the link is just about touching the rear springs, but that is only with the A hubs. With the C towers the link does not touch at all.

I had the same issue when I tried to just run the carbon front tower and no washers, and I ended up breaking two towers without so much as to flip over because the tower had so much ground off. However, with a 1mm spacer i have had no issues with breaking now.

As embarrassing as it all sounds...
I did do as you suggested for the 2nd tower & used a .030 under the short shock bushing (#1780) .....


Broke it ....


This is why I posted a even stronger
set-up with the least grinding necessary ....

Oh....no, you need to use the LONG shock bushing with 1mm spacer and its dialed!

The short vs the long short bushing is like 2mm difference...so that would be an extra 2mm of grinding so I'm not surprised it broke!