Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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#887
#888
would the kit springs be a good starting point for mid motor?
#890
Tech Elite
iTrader: (93)
ur main issue with the stock red springs would be they would be too stiff IMO, due to the fact you no longer have the weight of the motor and tranny hanging off the rear end so forward bite would suffer, you would have to go to a lighter spring in the rear to compensate, and now with the motor and tranny sitting forward that means more weight to the front so you would want a stiffer spring there as was stated by CPT america. you could try to drive it with stock springs but i think you would have a ton of steering and your rear wouldnt stay behind ya lol
#891
sir, you don't even have the car and are already giving advice? i love it. i can't wait until you get your car up and going. i doubt there i will be any running in my area so help here is fantastic.
p.s. there is no sarcasm in this post, i really do appreciate it.
p.s. there is no sarcasm in this post, i really do appreciate it.
#892
ur main issue with the stock red springs would be they would be too stiff IMO, due to the fact you no longer have the weight of the motor and tranny hanging off the rear end so forward bite would suffer, you would have to go to a lighter spring in the rear to compensate, and now with the motor and tranny sitting forward that means more weight to the front so you would want a stiffer spring there as was stated by CPT america. you could try to drive it with stock springs but i think you would have a ton of steering and your rear wouldnt stay behind ya lol
#893
Tech Regular
iTrader: (15)
the stock springs on this car are very nice and should work just fine for the mid motor . when i built my car i used the 6 hole pistons with losi 25 wt front and rear . my next change will be to use the shorty packs i think it will benefit the handling and balance i have two packs coming this week . we run a very tight clay track .
#896
Tech Regular
iTrader: (15)
FYI guys you are definitely going to want the aluminum rear arm mounts the stock plastic ones are fat and limit ur motor adjustments also they seem to pull out during racing so make sure you check them after every run . i found one of my older aluminum arm mounts and put it on. so next time the car will be more consistent during the race . and with the aluminum arm mount i can run the pinon i want to . i am able to go from a 22 tooth to a 31 where as with the plastic i was only able to use the 29 tooth as my smallest .
#898
USUALLY...(i can't say for sure in this instance), tebo measures from the bottom of the bottom shock cap, to the TOP of the rod end. Basically, the overall length of shock shaft that shows when its fully extended. If you combine THAT number, while using the same shock ends... you have your setup. It's all in efforts to achieve a certain amount of droop. If you have a link to the setup sheet you're reading, I'd be happy to look at it to confirm... (its of course possible he measured it a different way.. just going on past tebo setups iv looked at)
#899
FYI guys you are definitely going to want the aluminum rear arm mounts the stock plastic ones are fat and limit ur motor adjustments also they seem to pull out during racing so make sure you check them after every run . i found one of my older aluminum arm mounts and put it on. so next time the car will be more consistent during the race . and with the aluminum arm mount i can run the pinon i want to . i am able to go from a 22 tooth to a 31 where as with the plastic i was only able to use the 29 tooth as my smallest .
#900
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Join Date: Nov 2009
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If they are a direct drop on....which ones are they? The Amain web site has several choices under the rb6 parts pages....rr, rf, wide etc. I only want to buy one set of rear inner and outer if possible....
Last edited by Posvar; 10-01-2012 at 06:34 PM.