80LikesDurango DEX210 Thread
09-24-2012, 07:50 PM
#7921
09-24-2012, 08:09 PM
#7924
I bought my son the RTR for his B-day on Saturday and we took it to the track on Sunday. I don't know why, but the front of the chassis is already broken at the first 4 screws. It really sucks as I thought this was going to be a pretty durable vehicle. He wasn't abusing it that I know of, just typical track time. He is not a newb and knows about throttle control and proper jumping procedure. Just putting that out there
(2 questions)
1. Does anybody think Team Durango will warranty the chassis as some sort of defect? I mean c'mon, it's crazy!
2. What extra parts would I need to convert to the aluminum chassis? As everything on the RTR is molded into the plastic chassis.
Thank you
(2 questions)
1. Does anybody think Team Durango will warranty the chassis as some sort of defect? I mean c'mon, it's crazy!
2. What extra parts would I need to convert to the aluminum chassis? As everything on the RTR is molded into the plastic chassis.
Thank you
To convert to the aluminium chassis you would need -
MAIN CHASSIS PLATE Part No: TD320125
CHASSIS SIDE POD SET Part No: TD320122
3x10mm CS Screws x12 For mounting the side pods and rear suspension holders.
And probably a new body since the RTR has a +8mm chassis
DEX210 CLEAR BODY SET (INCLUDES DECALS & MASKS) Part No: TD402009
I think that is it.
09-24-2012, 08:11 PM
#7925
rear camber link mounts
took my dex210 to the track today and broke the rear camber link mount on the tranny it broke pretty easy i was wondering if there is a mod i thought i heard some time ago about a plate mod but cant seem to find it in this thread
09-24-2012, 08:16 PM
#7926
09-24-2012, 08:36 PM
#7927
thanks ekt
http://www.tresrey-usa.com/tresrey-a...ex210-dest210/ is what most people use.
09-24-2012, 10:17 PM
#7929
What was the first thing that brought you to a halt?
09-25-2012, 08:36 AM
#7932
After the process of elimination smash and I figured out the two idler gears must be out of round a bit. I dremeled a small amount of material out of the rear upper shaft hole to allow a little play and the gearbox is great. You can feel the out of round on the gears though. Just had to remove everything one by one and shim and re shim until we finally figured it out. I really like the mm4 layout, hope it works on our track.
There should be no clearance issues running MM4 over RM3. Start removing each individual part until the case halves fit properly. My guess is that either the bearings in the mid gears aren't fully seated or you have more diff shims than you think...the thin copper ones are super thin.
09-25-2012, 09:16 AM
#7935
It was a last resort thing and this is a spare car I am building up. Tried everything but different idler gears as I didn't have any extras. When I used to term dremeled, I used it lightly. Took about .5 mm off of the back of the rear mounting holes to free up the idler shaft and allow the gearbox to spin freely. Didn't get crazy with the dremel or anything. Been doing this over 25 years and have a lot of experience. I hated to do it but it was a last resort move. Nothing is compromised.