Hey, I'm new.
My cousin gave me his old rc nitro on-road car 3 years ago and it's been in my basement ever since, so I decided to try to start it up and get it working! Well, after countless questions and youtube videos, I ended up somehow getting it started with my dad after a million pulls but there's a problem! The car accelerates as soon as the car starts... How do I get it to stop and work on my control? Also, I don't think my car is "adjusted" and I want to, are there places that do that?

Your throttle servo is probably not adjusted properly or something is wrong with the carb (stuck, loose, etc). Make sure the carb is in a "closed" position (not all the way closed) when your radio and receiver are on with no throttle.

It could also be a trim on your radio if none of these have moved on the car since it was last working.

Sounds like the clutch is stuck or broken. Any Local hobby shop should be able to fix it. Or it could be the idle is way to high as well.
And also radio settings and linkage.

If you have time read this... there is a LOT to learn to get it all just right.

http://www.beachmumsracing.org.au/fyi/santalovesnitro/

I also suggest for good advice to address one issue at a time.

So... Car is accelerating too high when starting.

There is an IDLE screw to the side of the carby, it screws in opening the air gap as well as opening up the bottom needle allowing more fuel and more venturi to intake fuel miture.
Remove the air filter, look down your carby and check that there is no more than a 1mm gap at idle. You should also turn on your radio system at this time (engine off) and check your throttle servo positions and adjust the end points as to 1) close the carby to idle position 2) Not to rip your engine off it's mount and destroy the carby at full throttle.

Once you manage to get it to idle, the wheels should not turn, otherwise you need to address the clutch!

h

I also have the same problem, but mine
is like the throttle is stuck on, and it runs
Pretty fast without giving any throttle to it
It just happened all of a sudden,
Was fine one day but not the next
Any ideas what it could be? It's a 1/5 baja

check the idle screw..

If it's a nitro engine, then it's a combination of IDLE screw and LSN Bottom needle mixture.

Often a FAUX/False idle can be achieved by setting the IDLE too high allowing too much air in, while the bottom needle is open too much allowing too much fuel as well. This extra fuel richens the FUEL to AIR mixture and the idle decreases from what is in fact too large an idle gap.

Same applies to a petrol 2 stroke. The bottom / LSN/Idle mix.

Start with a 1mm idle gap.

What is lsn?

What could cause throttle servo's to keep
Burning out?

LSN= Low Speed Needle. As far as burning out TH servo the alignment is binding really bad.

Baja..

the LSN = Low Speed needle / Bottom Mixture / Idle Mixture (Take your pick)

AT IDLE : It is a Needle and seat that restricts the amount of fuel that is atomised by the air rushing in through the Carburettor and is draw by the venturi effect and some type of fuel pressure method.

On a carby engine we control the amount of fuel to air by managing the amount of fuel. On a modern real car, we turn things around and manage the AIR and the injectors maintain the constant.

One concept to get your head around with a Nitro engine is that the Low Speed needle is bound to the throttle cylnder. If you add more idle, it usually opens up the bottom needle allowing more fuel so that there is a relationship between the throttle opening and the bottom needle (idle mixture).

Once you are past a certain point on the throttle the LSN needle is completely withdrawn and maximum fuel flow takes effect. The governing factor to this is, the venturi or vacuum created by the engine exhausting after comubustion. This in addition to fuel pressure manages the overall mixture.

Before we enter a TOP NEEDLE discussion, just think of it as two taps on the fuel line in series. The top is the maximum fuel flow, the bottom needle is the mixture at IDLE.

If the bottom needle mixture is too rich, then the car will be boggy. Too lean and it will over rev and create a prepetual problem as the engine revs higher draws more air in and leans the mixture to the point of over heating.

This can work in reverse with a false idle, where there is too much air and the LSN needle floods with too much fuel, this will drop your revs. In fact the idle is too high allowing too much air and when you full throttle and finally clear your engine of excess fuel it will have a HIGH REVVING idle.

All this said and done, a NEW engine that is not run in will misbehave regardless. As is warms up it becomes looser and it's too difficult to tune until it's run-in properly.

Additional Notes:

If the HIGH idle happened suddenly with no change.

• You have an AIR leak somewhere. (Too much air)
• There's something restricting the fuel. (Not enough Fuel - Blocked needles, too lean on the top, hole in fuel line)
• Low Fuel pressure ( Poor sealing of exhaust manifolds or hole in the pressure line)
• There's something restricting the closing of the throttle cylinder (High idle - Disconnect servo and see if you can close the throlle more - adjust idle screw)
• Mixture screws have O-rings for a good seal and if these wear the mixture screws can unwind (Mixture needle winding in itself)
• Your servo's need to have their end points set correctly so that the servo does pull on your carby at full throttle and allows it to close enturely. (Radio alignment)

EVERYONE should use a rubber band just strong enough to pull a throttle closed. your servos are strong enough to overcome this opposong force. (Springs BREAK!)

Thank all for your help