You might need to bleed them when they see a decent temperature change from when you last bled them to the track you are currently running at. Otherwise, I bleed them between race days when I top off shock oil and set the rebound.

depends on how much I run, The bleeder caps on my SC and B4.1 have been on since new and the caps are still perfect. they are not meant to be cranked on, just snug them up lightly and all is good.

Suggest tightening the caps very firm ......

If the cap is are loose or has defective O-ring seal ?



The shock can "pump up" or pressurize with excess air ..


BAD for performance ....

talking about the bleeder screw...not the whole cap.

I know the information is buried within the archives of this thread, but I am not finding suggested settings I'm looking for.

I have a new FT SC10. I am currently running a Novak GTB2 and Ballistic 10.5 at 45 degrees timing. Gearing is currently at 19T/84T. Torque, speed and temps are all pretty decent, but with as light as this truck is, I am thinking there's more to be found. Any gearing/timing/motor suggestions?

The track is mostly wide open and relatively high traction.

Thanks in advance...

Now this is just my opinion....I'm not a big fan of timing. I'm not sure what the initial timing of the Ballistic 10.5 is but I would lower your timing and gear up. My brother runs a Ballistic 10.5 on his SC10 on a big track and has had good success with it without advancing timing. I would gear up until you hit top speed at the end of the longest straight and then check your temps after about 3 minutes.

Just installed the Avid, B4 bell crank and WOW!!!!!! What have I been doing for the past few weeks without it!!!!! No slop in my steering now!

Thanks for the reply and the suggestion. Fortunately, I've got a lot of pinions in the 20T range. I'll drop timing back to 30 and see where it goes. I'm half tempted to drop in an 8.5 stator and call it a day

Thanks...

You can still set the slipper on the SC10 so it lifts off the front tires an inch or more. I have the Factory team torque pads set for one inch and have no issues. If yours can't achieve this, you may have glazed pads or the RS (white) ones?

More timing will give you more top ens and less torque. So you can try even going a gear or so lower and get more top end.
I run my ballistic at stock 30 degrees timing with 20/84.

for those that could be interested: http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...se-onroad.html

has anyone used this mod on their sc10 to create less body roll. Does it work?
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...dy-Mount-Brace
Im getting some unwanted rolling in a few corners and seen this when looking around.

I've got an SC10 coming this week. I'd be very curious about this little gizmo too. Hope someone replies one way or the other.

It does stiffens the body in the rear.
It doesn't help chassis roll.

What does stiffening the rear do?
Also another person said to raise the inner camber link. What is the common number of washers to put under the ball stud because at this moment i have 1 front and rear. I did the factory team manual setup except i changed the front shocks to 5 limiters with 32.5 oil.
thanks

That brace stops the body from flexing and rubbing the tires.
I agree, raise the inner ball stud. 2 in the front is common with none in rear. You can try adding one more in the front and rear and see how it goes.