RC10B4.1 FT/WC
08-16-2012 | 11:50 PM
If your wanting to know if these are the magic ticket to winning. Well no they are not. You can spend all the money in the world on things for your car but you still have to drive it. Practice practice practice is still the best hop up you can buy.
I ask for feedback from people who bought them and I ask them to be honest. Its all been good.
08-17-2012 | 01:47 AM
Tech Master
iTrader: (55)
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08-17-2012 | 03:07 AM
Help!! I need to rebuild my shocks on my B4.1 worlds V2 shocks. What is the best way to get the shaft out of the body? Should I unscrew the lower shock mount or is there a better way? (sorry, first timer here) 
If so, how do I best hold the shaft to keep it from turning w/out damaging it?
If so, how do I best hold the shaft to keep it from turning w/out damaging it?As people mentioned previous the Fuel tubing trick works good, so can cloth. I find now, using a good pair of Side Cutters and holding the shock just above the Eyelet works well too. no risk of scratching the shock shaft and damaging the shock. hold it firm enough to not allow the shaft to move and turn, without trying to cut the shaft.
So I'm a little behind the times, but is ANYONE still using the B44 rear hubs rather than the new Aluminum ones?
MOmo
08-17-2012 | 03:34 AM
Just so you know it's not machined Delrin. And your correct. $18 is alot which is why AE makes the stock ones they way thay do. Its cheaper to make a spacer out of cheap plastic but it does not do the job it needs to do. Next time you have your shocks appart install the stock spacer without the orings. Now move the shock shaft side to side. You will then understand how much side force your orings are trying to control.
This is the reason for a true shock bushing. It does all the work of controling the shock shaft leaving the orings to do what they were designed to do. Seal.
They are expencive. Some good things are. Look at the price of the ProLine DLC shock shafts. Expencive yes. But the fact is they work!
Just to give you an idea the material I use for the bushings has a .05 coefficient of friction. DLC coated shaft has a .02 coefficient. Delrin has a
.25 coefficient. The stock Spacer material if it were to touch the shaft has a .38 coefficient.
Orings "stiction" on the shock shaft increases with the amount of presure that they squeeze the shaft. With the stock spacers you have high amounts of oring compresion. Because the stock spacer has excesive clearance it lets the shaft move in a lateral force. This lateral or side force causes the oring to compress increasing its "stiction" Having a correctly suported shock shaft prevents this compresion of the shock oring.
Sorry for the winded explination... LOL
John
This is the reason for a true shock bushing. It does all the work of controling the shock shaft leaving the orings to do what they were designed to do. Seal.
They are expencive. Some good things are. Look at the price of the ProLine DLC shock shafts. Expencive yes. But the fact is they work!
Just to give you an idea the material I use for the bushings has a .05 coefficient of friction. DLC coated shaft has a .02 coefficient. Delrin has a
.25 coefficient. The stock Spacer material if it were to touch the shaft has a .38 coefficient.
Orings "stiction" on the shock shaft increases with the amount of presure that they squeeze the shaft. With the stock spacers you have high amounts of oring compresion. Because the stock spacer has excesive clearance it lets the shaft move in a lateral force. This lateral or side force causes the oring to compress increasing its "stiction" Having a correctly suported shock shaft prevents this compresion of the shock oring.
Sorry for the winded explination... LOL
John
cheers
Paul
08-17-2012 | 04:56 AM
I've got the aluminum ones on both my B4.1 and my T4.1 but my son has the B44 hug on his SC10. I didn't really like how the SC10 felt with the C hub mod so with that I'll be sticking with the $4 B44 hub. For the buggy...that might be a different story. My aluminum hubs (after drilling and tapping for a set screw to the hinge pin) have been great from day 1. Some folks have been mentioning a lot of bearing slop in the more recently purchased hubs though. Someone had also posted a little performance test that they ran between the plastic hub and the aluminum hub. You'll have to search for that.
08-17-2012 | 06:24 AM
08-17-2012 | 06:30 AM
08-17-2012 | 06:46 AM
Tech Master
iTrader: (16)
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Posts: 1,578
Thanks for those who offered real help. FYI, the AE guy on you tube was shown using bladders in the V2 shocks that had the bleeder caps........ JUST FYI.
Check it out: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-hU6B9Z62hw
BTW, for those who didn't read all my posts, I DID have the manual in front of me, soooooooo.........
Check it out: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-hU6B9Z62hw
BTW, for those who didn't read all my posts, I DID have the manual in front of me, soooooooo.........
Are you messing with us?
08-17-2012 | 07:24 AM
guys, go buy shock shaft pliers. i never thought i needed one but a buddy gave me his cheap one when he got the losi one last year, and wow it's much better than using needle nose pliers and some paper wrapped around the shaft.
08-17-2012 | 07:25 AM
now im confused, i heard you had to run the 22 arms to have clearance for the amount of washers you ran? 
But on a serious note, how much lower is the c-hub compared to the standard hub? Id like to drill some b44 hubs into c hubs.
But on a serious note, how much lower is the c-hub compared to the standard hub? Id like to drill some b44 hubs into c hubs.
08-17-2012 | 07:32 AM
Tech Master
iTrader: (41)
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 1,325
From: Grand Portage, MN
I asked earlier in this thread about the lengths between the hing pin hole and the camber link holes for the A,B and C hub but did not get an answer