Help me prepare my 1/8 e-buggy for a 10h endurance
#31
Tech Elite
iTrader: (14)
im with u on that nitro is more concervative. all u have to worry about is temp changes with tune but it an easy fix. plus ive broken less things on my nitro than on my electric buggys. always broke with brushless durring races even with out crashing. something always happens.
I've won a 4hr nitro endurance race by the way... refueling at 9mn, one 3mn pitstop to change rx lipo + tires + filter, plus one 2mn pit stop to fix a floppy camber link ... Electric is even easier really.
For battery change inspiration: check this out... winning truggy at last year's french biggest 8h race. Looks like 15s to me. these guys were doing 18mn/pack. No flameouts
http://www.dailymotion.com/video/xj5...sucy-rc94_auto
Paul
#32
Tech Champion
Thread Starter
I know Christophe and CBRacing, impressive lipo change. The weird thing is I use EC5 connectors too and no way I could unplug them so fast. They really are a pain to open. I will drill a hole in the plastic cases of the connectors and put a ziptie so I can grab them better.
Just ordered this body for the DNX to have more room for the lipos:
Just ordered this body for the DNX to have more room for the lipos:
#33
Didn't read the whole thread but here are some things to consider:
- Carefully set current limiter to ~5-10% more than the minimum you think you need power-wise. Will keep motor temp down and help run-time
- Pack all bearings with a waterproof grease, something a little heavier than what normally comes with them. Same w/Diff outdrives.
- If one of the cars has the option to run the rear shocks forward on the rear arms, use that. In 10hrs you could get packed and have a shock unecessarily damaged
- Take advantage of the conservative motor/esc settings and use a body with fewer vents to keep stuff out of the car
- Shock boots if you don't already run them
- Put more padding under your RX.
- Set your servo saver a little softer.
#34
Tech Champion
Thread Starter
Thanks Davidka, many ideas I would have never thought about
#35
tell me of a hi-perf clutch (alloy shoes) that can statistically run 8hrs reliably with hard driving and zero maintenance
I've won a 4hr nitro endurance race by the way... refueling at 9mn, one 3mn pitstop to change rx lipo + tires + filter, plus one 2mn pit stop to fix a floppy camber link ... Electric is even easier really.
For battery change inspiration: check this out... winning truggy at last year's french biggest 8h race. Looks like 15s to me. these guys were doing 18mn/pack. No flameouts
http://www.dailymotion.com/video/xj5...sucy-rc94_auto
Paul
I've won a 4hr nitro endurance race by the way... refueling at 9mn, one 3mn pitstop to change rx lipo + tires + filter, plus one 2mn pit stop to fix a floppy camber link ... Electric is even easier really.
For battery change inspiration: check this out... winning truggy at last year's french biggest 8h race. Looks like 15s to me. these guys were doing 18mn/pack. No flameouts
http://www.dailymotion.com/video/xj5...sucy-rc94_auto
Paul
I usually get 2 gallons on a clutch with very minimal maintenance with my car dialed for 15-30min runs.
Still, the OP needs to stick with what he knows. No point in switching to nitro unless he allready knows nitro.
#36
Tech Champion
Thread Starter
Didn't read the whole thread but here are some things to consider:
- Carefully set current limiter to ~5-10% more than the minimum you think you need power-wise. Will keep motor temp down and help run-time -> I'll use a MMP, I've no current limiter. You won't trust me but I'm more confident with the MMP in 6S compared to a RX8
- Pack all bearings with a waterproof grease, something a little heavier than what normally comes with them. Same w/Diff outdrives. -> just did it with lithium grease
- If one of the cars has the option to run the rear shocks forward on the rear arms, use that. In 10hrs you could get packed and have a shock unecessarily damaged -> standard on the DNX
- Take advantage of the conservative motor/esc settings and use a body with fewer vents to keep stuff out of the car -> I'll use a smooth ESC setup but considering I'll run 6S lipos and 1400kv motor temps should be ok
- Shock boots if you don't already run them -> standard, I'll use shock socks selfmade with jersey too
- Put more padding under your RX. -> it was previously directly on the châssis but I'll use the box that comes wit the RCMonster conversion this time
- Set your servo saver a little softer. -> it is set with red loctite and I didn't manage to loose it
My car is completely disassembled right now. Would you boil the plastics?
#37
Tech Champion
Thread Starter
To boil or not to boil that is the question...
Guys, I need your opinion
Guys, I need your opinion
#38
Tech Elite
iTrader: (14)
Paul
#39
Tech Champion
Thread Starter
dude you're old enough to make up your own mind... you're more knowledgeable than 90% of us here so make your own choices Boiling your plastics sure won't hurt them. The very fact you're asking is already telling us (and yourself) that you made your own decision already!
Paul
Paul
#40
Tech Champion
Thread Starter
Here is where we are:
- I did the mod with the zipties on the EC5 and it works great
- we bought a second used DNX408 chassis for the parts
- 3x 6S 3300mah lipos have arrived, just need to solder the EC5 on them
- I will plastidip all the electronics (MMP + servo)
- I did the mod with the zipties on the EC5 and it works great
- we bought a second used DNX408 chassis for the parts
- 3x 6S 3300mah lipos have arrived, just need to solder the EC5 on them
- I will plastidip all the electronics (MMP + servo)
#41
Tech Champion
Thread Starter
Hello, back from the endurance
So everything went awesome.. Except for the rcm motor mount.
I did my best laptimes ever on that track with the Durango but the mount kept moving. I used threadlock on all the metal to metal screws, re-checked 10x times the mesh, everything was fine but at the end nobody was able to solve the problem.
The electronics handled perfectly (MMP + tekin T8 + gens ace and zippy lipos), the car was awesome to drive so the problem with the mount was even more frustrating. I already had a similar problem with a rcmonster for the JQ last year. Mount moving all the time. I solved it since then but the DNX408 conversion had just arrived last week so we couldn't test it extensively.
So all in all awesome car but I'm seriously doubting about this mount considering we asked many pilots to solve the problem and tested just about everything. I will give it a last chance next week end. I'm racing on the same track so we'll see but considering we prepared this endurance for weeks and made our best laptimes this was REALLY annoying
The EB48 finished first but I could overtake it when the DNX was driving , time was rainy in the morning and sunny to cloudy in the afternoon. I'll post pics ASAP
So everything went awesome.. Except for the rcm motor mount.
I did my best laptimes ever on that track with the Durango but the mount kept moving. I used threadlock on all the metal to metal screws, re-checked 10x times the mesh, everything was fine but at the end nobody was able to solve the problem.
The electronics handled perfectly (MMP + tekin T8 + gens ace and zippy lipos), the car was awesome to drive so the problem with the mount was even more frustrating. I already had a similar problem with a rcmonster for the JQ last year. Mount moving all the time. I solved it since then but the DNX408 conversion had just arrived last week so we couldn't test it extensively.
So all in all awesome car but I'm seriously doubting about this mount considering we asked many pilots to solve the problem and tested just about everything. I will give it a last chance next week end. I'm racing on the same track so we'll see but considering we prepared this endurance for weeks and made our best laptimes this was REALLY annoying
The EB48 finished first but I could overtake it when the DNX was driving , time was rainy in the morning and sunny to cloudy in the afternoon. I'll post pics ASAP
#42
Tech Elite
iTrader: (14)
Hello, back from the endurance
So everything went awesome.. Except for the rcm motor mount.
I did my best laptimes ever on that track with the Durango but the mount kept moving. I used threadlock on all the metal to metal screws, re-checked 10x times the mesh, everything was fine but at the end nobody was able to solve the problem.
The electronics handled perfectly (MMP + tekin T8 + gens ace and zippy lipos), the car was awesome to drive so the problem with the mount was even more frustrating. I already had a similar problem with a rcmonster for the JQ last year. Mount moving all the time. I solved it since then but the DNX408 conversion had just arrived last week so we couldn't test it extensively.
So all in all awesome car but I'm seriously doubting about this mount considering we asked many pilots to solve the problem and tested just about everything. I will give it a last chance next week end. I'm racing on the same track so we'll see but considering we prepared this endurance for weeks and made our best laptimes this was REALLY annoying
So everything went awesome.. Except for the rcm motor mount.
I did my best laptimes ever on that track with the Durango but the mount kept moving. I used threadlock on all the metal to metal screws, re-checked 10x times the mesh, everything was fine but at the end nobody was able to solve the problem.
The electronics handled perfectly (MMP + tekin T8 + gens ace and zippy lipos), the car was awesome to drive so the problem with the mount was even more frustrating. I already had a similar problem with a rcmonster for the JQ last year. Mount moving all the time. I solved it since then but the DNX408 conversion had just arrived last week so we couldn't test it extensively.
So all in all awesome car but I'm seriously doubting about this mount considering we asked many pilots to solve the problem and tested just about everything. I will give it a last chance next week end. I'm racing on the same track so we'll see but considering we prepared this endurance for weeks and made our best laptimes this was REALLY annoying
so what's wrong with the RCM mount? And why not use the stock one?
Paul
#43
Tech Champion
Thread Starter
I feel for ya - when hardware lets you down in an enduro race, and it's not a preparation mistake, it's so frustrating (happened to us last time in a 4h race and servo gear went poof when we were running 3rd and catching up) when it's something you can't control
so what's wrong with the RCM mount? And why not use the stock one?
Paul
so what's wrong with the RCM mount? And why not use the stock one?
Paul
Trouble is the motor mount is fixed with M3 screws on the DNX408 which is not enough IMO. I like to fix my motor and mount with M4 screws and use loctite so that it holds up. On a endurance you can't have this kind of problem, it screwed all the race so yes very frustrating. We even had to stop the race completely as it was so muddy and we took to long to re-install everything correctly everytime. The other thing is the loctite hadn't enough time to dry so it almost was a lubricant which is the opposite of what we want. We ripped two metal spur because of the mount moving too..
But the temps in 6S were way better than in 5S with the same 1400kv motor. I was geared high (18 pinion) and I could barely reach 50 degrees on the motor..and man the buggy was fast on the track! Actually I prefer the MMP than the RX8 in 6S 1400kv. It runs almost cold and so smooth! The power delivery was just perfect so I'm very pleased considering my temps were too high for my taste with the 5S 1400kv setup. I managed to get 20 minutes runtimes running the buggy hard in 3300mah 6S 1400kv which is very good
#44
Tech Master
iTrader: (28)
Here's an idea for battery changes, Mount bullets into the tray facing up (or too the side for standup trays) in such a way that one can undo a velcro strap, pull of the battery and plug a new one right in without a connector. This will require all of you batteries to have the same + - orientation and bullets built into the hardcase.
#45
Tech Champion
Thread Starter
Thanks for the tip
Here is a before/ after comparison
As you can see the silicone joint was needed. I used it just about everywhere: on the sensor cable plugs once the cable installed, on the motor holes, in the BEC (I completely filled it), all around the ESC especially in the wires plugs area, around the servo, around the receiver. I had absolutely no failure under the rain, the silicone protected everything perfectly. I already cleaned all the electronics and it looks like new
I removed all the mud before I took the pic, I should have done a pic just after the race but my hands were full sorry
Here is a before/ after comparison
As you can see the silicone joint was needed. I used it just about everywhere: on the sensor cable plugs once the cable installed, on the motor holes, in the BEC (I completely filled it), all around the ESC especially in the wires plugs area, around the servo, around the receiver. I had absolutely no failure under the rain, the silicone protected everything perfectly. I already cleaned all the electronics and it looks like new
I removed all the mud before I took the pic, I should have done a pic just after the race but my hands were full sorry
Last edited by Pulse_; 08-27-2012 at 08:11 AM.